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  #1  
Old 08-14-2015, 02:19 PM
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starter, ignition switch or nss?

When I turn the ignition switch I get nothing.
Trying to narrow down the problem.

Throwing this out cause I don't have time now to
read through all the threads I see.

I have a good used starter in the garage.

Thanks,
Jeff

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  #2  
Old 08-14-2015, 02:39 PM
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I think you've already got it pretty well narrowed down - NSS, starter or ignition switch is about all it could be. If it were me I'd do the NSS and ignition switch first as the starter is a pain to get to.
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  #3  
Old 08-14-2015, 02:46 PM
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Try to move the gear shift lever around to see what happens. If it cranks that means your neutral safety switch could be faulty or out of adjustment. On the starter I would jump the starter solenoid to see if the starter cranks. If jumping the solenoid produces no result then you have narrowed the problem down to the starter or the starter solenoid. If the key turns to the crank position more than likely your ignition switch and tumbler are OK. I presume you have already checked your battery and battery cables especially the ground cable.
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  #4  
Old 08-14-2015, 03:11 PM
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Or the one thing you didn't mention.....the ground straps

I changed out 2 starters before finding a loose eng-chassis ground strap.

BTW, the starter isn't as difficult on the W126, compared to the W123.
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  #5  
Old 08-14-2015, 03:24 PM
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Thanks everyone,
OK--jumping the starter on the SD--
jump between 1st & 3rd terminals in the junction box
on passenger side fender? With key in on position? trying to crank?

New battery this year--recleaned terminals.
Put in a rebuilt Bosch starter maybe four years ago.

Thanks,
Jeff
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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

Last edited by Rooster300SD; 08-14-2015 at 04:01 PM.
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  #6  
Old 08-14-2015, 04:45 PM
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if MB carried the same design over to later years, there is a 4 pole wiring junction next to the knee panel, its a 4 wire junction with two thick and two thin wires, one of the thick is from the key and the other comes back from the NSS contact, the thins are for reverse lamp.

if you bridge the 2 thick wires - you can bypass the NSS and test if the key starts the engine, if not then test at the 3 pole junction in the engine room. If you cannot energize the starter there, your starter is not getting a complete circuit to rotate the motor.
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  #7  
Old 08-14-2015, 05:04 PM
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Could also be shift bushings. If they're bad or missing entirely, as can happen, you may not be in the gear you think you're in. I know with Park in particular it can be in enough to take it out of drive and engage the pawl but not enough to disengage the NSS.
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  #8  
Old 08-14-2015, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster300SD View Post
When I turn the ignition switch I get nothing.
If the meaning of "nothing" includes no crank or even a solenoid click AND you know that the battery is charged and the battery cables and grounds are clean & tight:

You have to go through the tests. Key to "start" sends current to the small wire on the solenoid on all vehicles of this era. Test this. You should also have full battery voltage at the cable at the starter.

There is also a junction block under the hood on the passenger side that can be used to bypass some of the switches. I forgot exactly which ones. This is where I connect a switch to bump the engine when don't want to turn it with a socket or use the ignition key. It is also in the FSM.
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  #9  
Old 08-14-2015, 07:00 PM
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bad starter

Confirmed by jumping terminals 1& 3 in junction box on pass fender.
Only got a click with the starter in the car.

Hooked up the good used starter on garage floor to the battery
and connecting the solenoid wire to terminal #1.

After jumping 1 & 3 solenoid engages and motor spins.

Looks like another Friday night under the car.
This after finishing redoing the entire rear end last week.
It never ends...........

Thanks to all for the help.
Jeff
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  #10  
Old 08-14-2015, 08:10 PM
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Keep your old starter. it could be as simple as contacts. You really need to know how much charge the battery has.

A click is the solenoid contacts closing and not enough current flowing to turn the engine. What if you have a bad connection, swap starters, cause the new starter to have a good connection and throw your old one away - or worse, trade it as a core for the crappy remans commonly available?
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  #11  
Old 08-14-2015, 10:32 PM
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Thumbs up firing up fine

Just finished putting in the spare starter.
Fired right up. Cleaned up the ground strap which wasn't bad.
Not terrible on the 126--pull the aircleaner--drop the exhaust.
I had done this before so the big hex bolts broke loose fine.
My wife has small hands and she helped out starting some of
the hard to reach bolts.

There is an alternator shop here in town that does good work.
It is a one man shop and I think he might rebuild starters, too.
I will give him a call to see if he can work on them.

The Bosch reman I put in was practically new, so I should be good for a while.

Thanks again everyone,
Jeff
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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

Last edited by Rooster300SD; 08-14-2015 at 10:47 PM.
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  #12  
Old 08-15-2015, 03:31 PM
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5cylinder

On a side note, met a fellow member when I was starter stranded in the
local Post Office parking lot before getting towed home.
His name is Tom and he goes by 5cylinder.
Saw me with my hood up and came over to try and
figure out the problem. Great guy. He correctly guessed the starter.

He drives the best looking 85 300CD I have ever seen.
Immaculate inside and out. Super clean engine bay.
Original paint is black & looks new. Should have taken some pictures.

Anyway, it was nice to have a fellow traveler come over & help
out a total stranger.

Jeff
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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
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  #13  
Old 08-15-2015, 05:32 PM
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X2 on keeping the old starter. References Stretch's wonderful thread on rebuilding a 617 starter (something along the lines of "a 617 starter isn't just for Christmas") and keep it as a spare. I used his thread as a guide to refresh my 601 starter when I had the car taken apart for a clutch and an oil leak.

I've offered assistance to other Benz drivers in the past. The most recent was a gasoline W126 hood up at the gas station. I asked if he was having trouble and he said it died and wouldn't restart. The bad thing was, he told me he had a mechanic on the way and the mechanic thought it was the injectors. At that point, I just wished him luck and walked away. I wasn't about to sit there and explain Jetronic to him and suggest a new mechanic. Oh well. I've also had multiple people come to the auto garage I worked at specifically asking for me by name because word got out I was in the business of fixing our old cars. I left everyone with a paper with info so they had the site and my username. It's nice to induct new members.

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