This is all correct. On my OM615, you can seen the gas pedal linkage connecting to the throttle valve (circled in red), with the vacuum line connecting to the fuel pump.




What's nice about this is that I can still shut the engine off even if the vacuum pump fails. It does make the gas pedal linkage much more complicated, though.

So sorry for my prior statement. I used to be on some sort of forum for my 65 Lincoln and it really pissed me off when people who didn't have a 65 Lincoln but who had worked on "a lot of Fords" would chime in with their rubbish advice that applied to a Ford, but not a Lincoln. And now I've done the same. Well, to make this an educational opportunity, does anyone know the reason? Generating vacuum seems out because it has a vacuum pump. Seems to me it would need to be arranged so it would get air and fuel at roughly the same rate, or does it literally just open all the way as soon as you step on the pedal and is only there to allow for shutting down the engine by starving it for air?

Buttoned everything up over the weekend -- primed the fuel filter, connected up the oil bath air cleaner, and new coolant hoses and clamps connecting up the radiator. After fixing an unexpected waterfall from the thermostat housing (make sure that O-ring is in the right spot, oops), I connected up the battery and finally tried cranking the engine. Nothing. All the lights turned on, what could be wrong? Well, I missed the battery ground cable bolted to the transmission. Tighten that down and it cranks! After bleeding the fuel out of the lines and replacing the old corroded ground cable with a new one, it started right up with a satisfying clatter: https://www.instagram.com/p/B2NsjzklqgX/

I'm going to run some diesel purge through it, adjust the valves again, and then try and even out the idle. I'm planning on checking the fuel pressure, compression, injection pump timing, and cleaning the injectors. Anything else?

I went on an injection pump repair tangent in this thread: Replacing a pneumatically governed OM615 M-pump with an MW off an OM616

With the repaired pump back in, I've starting trying to figure out the timing, both reading through threads here and the FSM. Looks like one thing I've overlooked until tonight is bleeding the air out of the IP. Is this the correct screw to loosen to bleed the air out of the pump?


I also spent a day last month at a pick-n-pull removing a OM615 from a surprisingly decent '74 240D -- it may end up in the van if I can't fix the stuck ring on cylinder 2!

Possibly is, but the return line takes care of that anyway. Still have to bleed at the injector pipe nuts as well.

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1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

Hi all, I just joined and I am picking a 206D camper next week, The van is all good, I'm on a learning curve at the moment by reading as much as can.
Are there any known problems with the transaxle on the 206? Regards Charlie

Not to my knowledge! The other owners I've talked to say that the drivetrain and frame are quite robust. The body does rust, though, and mine has plenty. Should be a bit easier for you to get parts in the UK, too.

Today I procrastinated on fixing the IP timing by dropping the gas tank for a proper cleaning and pulling all the old fuel lines for replacement. I probably will just swap in my spare OM615 -- not sure if it's worth my time trying to free this presumably stuck piston ring with MMO soaks and a future italian tune up when I have a spare ready to swap in, and then popping the head off the original engine.

Wow, finally able to connect (long story)... I've owned a 1976 L206D British van conversion called the "Ultra Autobahn" for over 40 years (KatieKat Website Myrtle) and stumbled upon this site and still playing catch-up. Been in mothballs but runs fine (20-year-old fuel via super filtration). Have all the factory workshop manuals, and would like to discuss source(s) for obtaining brake cylinders (at least one, as the others should be rebuildable) and relining the brake shoes, and what type of diesel fuel should I use for this OM615 (I think) engine? Thank you.

There is not much choice in diesel fuel, in some markets and at certain branded fuel stations there is some kind of (pricier) performance diesel, V-power etc, best to stay away from that. Some people use cleaned-up vegetable (waste) oil, but you generally have to make that yourself. Biodiesel is also not advisable.

These were made in India until the late 90's under the Force/Tempo Matador brand. If you have contacts there, you can still get spares for it.

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1974 MB W115 240D

Apple Hydraulics can sleeve your cylinders with stainless steel. (800) 882-7753