If you have a CDI with 100k miles or more, you might want to check your EGR valve before there is an issue while driving.

My vehicle started exhibiting episodes where the turbo would go offline and the car would shift erratically and generally lack power. This happened infrequently but then more so. On my last 1200 mile trip, it happened at least three times. Once just after starting and accelerating quickly, full throttle and once on highway after putting around in city stop and go.

The issue would clear itself after turning car off and restarting. No CELs or warning lights were thrown. A MB tech. said when I was in for a fuel hose repairs that an EGR code was stored and he could read it on a Star machine. I had waited to ck. the issue out until it became more frequent.

After doing some research, I concluded the EGR valve was not working properly and found a post that indicated a cleaning would correct the situation at least for awhile. Several Sprinter forums also talked about clogged, impaired EGR valves as well.

Anyway, the EGR is made by Wahler and sits on top the engine under the cover on the driver's side in the back. It is held in place by two 10mm E10 external Torx bolts which also hold the oil dipstick bracket and a wiring harness in place. To remove the EGR valve, simply remove bolts and rotate the valve left and right. Once loose, lift straight up and away from engine. Mine was stubborn and I hit it with PB blaster and let it sit overnight. Came out easily next morning.

Cover or stuff hole with clean towel to keep anything from falling into engine manifold.

What I saw....The internal part of the valve was caked in some carbon but I do not think it was necessary to clean it. What was also caked and causing the binding was the armature/linkage that comes off the valve motor and operates the plunger portion of the valve. The plunger would get stuck while I manually operated the valve armature/linkage. The same no doubt happened when the vehicle is being driven.

You can inspect this by carefully removing the plastic cover on the valve even while the EGR is in the engine. I am going to start doing this at least every other oil change.

To clean the armature/linkage, it is probably best to remove the entire valve so you are not flushing black carbon and solvent all over your engine and perhaps a small amount back down the plunger into your engine. Remember to remove and reinstall the O-ring where the valve meets the manifold. If you carefully remove it, you should be able to reuse it.

I cleaned the assembly with brake cleaner and after drying, it operated with no binding. I applied a small amount of graphite to the arm and roller the arm goes around just to give a little more help.

In a pinch, you might be able to get the linkage working again on the side of a road by removing the plastic cover and vacuuming the inside. You can also flush it a bit while in place as there is a small drain hole oriented toward the bottom while it is mounted on the engine.

Here is picture showing inside with plastic cover removed:





Here is picture showing valve part that fits in engine:



What is interesting is that no CEL or warning light comes on. You just all of the sudden may have reduced power. From reading other people's situations, a CEL may come on after the situation persists for a length of time (repeated EGR problems).

MB will want to replace the EGR and perhaps reflash the ECU at a cost of +/-$800!! It makes sense in the make sure it is fixed world but I'm OK to do a little leg work and reuse a part that has just become impaired.

At 100k miles, coking with carbon of the engine EGR system is probable which can lead to EGR vqalve impairment. It makes sense to be proactive and avoid hassles or issues while operating the vehicle.

__________________
-- Chris

'95 E300, 216k miles, Silver Surfer
'05 E320 CDI, 138k miles
'07 S550 4matic, 69k miles

Gone but not forgotten:

'76 300D, 350k miles?, SOLD in 1995
'75 240D, 300k miles, SOLD in 1991