I've read many of the starter/ solenoid posts, but I did not find anybody state how they solved the problem. I've noticed that I have one symptom that no one else mentioned.

Here are what I have:This only occurs during the first start of the day, no mater what time or temp.

1. Starter engages momentarily then disengages and stops spinning. 'Sometimes' it acts like one of the cylinders fires, causing the starter to disengage but not always.
2. solenoid engagement time varies from a 2 or 3 revolutions to a split second.
3.Getting harder and harder to start.
4. solenoid does nothing if I turn key straight to start bypassing glow-plug warm up cycle, even after several start attempts. starter just spins.

Question: can the glow plug controller going bad, cause the Solenoid to not engage/ or disengage?

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MC Professor

1981 300D non-Turbo
with unknown 617. motor and 711.311 transmission

I have experienced some of this recently. not sure if exactly the same, but a fresh battery did wonders. starts right up now. every time.

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1991 300D

With the Engine Cold try using a Jumper Wire from a positive Voltage source. That can be the Battery or the largest Terminal (that is where the Positive Battery Cable connects to the starter) or the positive Battery Terminal and apply the Wire to the small Terminal on the Starter Solenoid.


If everything is normal that should cause the Solenoid and starter to engage and crank as it is bypassing the Ignition Switch and the Neutral Safety Switch.

The preferred method is to use a Remote Starter Switch that clips on the Terminals as once it is clipped on you don't need to be down there by the Starter trying to manipulate a Wire.
The Remote Starter Switch can also be handy when you do a valve adjustment.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I fogot to mention clean the Battery Terminals and Grould Strap areas where the connect.

If when using the Jumper Wire or Remote Starter Switch you have the same Symptoms it could be the Starter Solenoid, the Overrunning Clutch (often called a Bendix) or if your Ring Gear on the Flywheel is burred up or the teeth are otherwise buggerd the Starte Gear will not engage properly but may catch on the burrs and roatate the Engine a bit.

You could even be haing some ignition switch issue. However, if you use the Jumper Wire or Remote Starter Switch if it is the ignition switch your starter should work fine when that is bypassed with the Jumper Wire or Remote Starter Switch.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Before replacing the starter (which it sounds like is the culprit) pull the battery out of the car after it has set for 8-12 hours at least and take it to an auto parts store. Have them test the battery and tell you how much life is left in the battery. Believe it or not, I had a battery with 75% life left in it and it was causing weak starts. I replaced the battery with a brand new gold standard from autozone (best warranty and price and CCA) and the car noticeably started up quicker. Before it would cycle 2-4 times before starting. After replacing the battery, one revolution and it fired right up. Eventually I had to replace the starter though.

Sounds like it is time to replace the starter, quite and interesting job.
- Remove the air cleaner making access to the wiring harness essential, unless you like to struggle
- Soak the starter bolts in wd-40 over night or everyday for a week.
- Then use at least 3-4ft of extensions and use the exhaust pipe for leverage to break free the bolts.

Takes about an hours to two to swap them. Well worth the investment.

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Nosce Te Ipsum "Know thyself"

Thanks All, I will look into it.

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MC Professor

1981 300D non-Turbo
with unknown 617. motor and 711.311 transmission

The contacts in the junction in the engine compartment block on the passenger's side also need to be clean and tight. I access there for the remote start because it's easier to reach than the starter itself. The cranking system needs to be in good shape so if in doubt, go for the starter.

I changed to full synthetic oil because it makes cold starting easy. Anything below 15*F was a problem on dino oil especially when the battery wasn't perfect. Also note that the glow plugs can pull voltage measured at the battery posts down so low that you may condemn the charging system.

Finally especially now that it is becoming colder, these alternators have a regulator that is easy to change with the alt installed. Buy quality ie Bosch in this case. Brushes are another item that causes charging issues but doesn't require replacing the alternator.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

For your type of starter, the solenoid is engaging ( the starter motor spins ) but the starter drive is slipping ( one way clutch ) .

Sometimes the drive can be revived by applying ATF or light oil where the drive gear ends and the drive housing starts. This thins out dried grease allowing the rollers and springs to move again. Sometimes the drive is just worn out and replacement is needed.

Can't you just use a screwdriver to connect the two posts on the starter; do you have to have a wire to the battery?

I had starter disengaging in cold winter starts and it was the starter itself.

This problem has nothing to to do with the pre-glow relay. The problem has everything to do with the voltage/current getting to the solenoid and the starter and what the solenoid is doing with that power. Could be battery, could be cables (corrosion), could be tired solenoid, combination of some or all.

Test components individually to decide which are failing. Battery and starter can be tested for free at FLAPS. You'll need to measure voltages at the solenoid and starter and compare with voltage at the other end of those wires to see how much power you are losing to corrosion.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

OK, here is what I have learned/ done.
-Dillon, I suspected the glow plug relay, because according to the prints that I have, the power to engage the solenoid comes from that relay. Either way it wasn't the problem.
-I bought the car 2 1/2 years ago, always thought the battery looked small but it worked. I replaced the battery with the correct size, spun the starter like a turbine. Solenoid only engaged every 4th or 5th try.
-Changed starter/solenoid AWESOME results. starts immediately, even when cold (high 30's).

Thanks everyone. NOw to figure out what happened to my steering. Different thread.

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MC Professor

1981 300D non-Turbo
with unknown 617. motor and 711.311 transmission