W123 front Brake Calipers. run around at auto parts store
 

A couple weeks back I back the 80 240D out of the garage and noticed a drop of engine oil on the floor.
This car just about never leaks oil, but ever so often will see a drop.
So grab a Flash Light and get own on my knees and shine the light around, and notice the inside of the
L/F tire is all wet with oil.

I had just been under the car the day before dealing with the Alternator issue of not charging and swapping in another VR etc...
So this problem just happened that day. Noticed it was Brake Fluid and that the reservoir wasn`t low.

Take her over to the shop and pull the tire. the out side seal on the Caliper blew, and only the out side pad was soaked along with the inside of the wheel and tire.
Get that cleaned up first, then go in the house and price calipers. See what they are here on pelican, and the Core charge is $35.
Really don`t want to deal with mailing back the calipers and probably cost as much to mail them as I get back.

So I run down to O`Rilly`s and see what they have, I have ATE calipers on the car, and this is what I want.
The guy looks them up and we order them. I gave him the MB part# for right and left along with a set of pads.
This way he could cross ref them with their part#`s.
The kid has a Smart Phone and had him go into Peachparts catalog to see the correct parts etc...

Next day they come in, the pads were the wrong one`s. some long narrow one`s, but with the correct store part #. (Different kid) so we go back into PP and I show him the correct pads. finally get them.

The Calipers that came in do not have ATE on them just a # cast in the metal 19-339 for the right side and 19-338 for the left.
They look like something cast at a factory in a 3rd world factory. :eek:
I give them the old Calipers for the core and off I go.

I bolt the L/F on and the Rotor will not turn, :confused: like it is in a bind. First it looked like the edge of the Rotor was hitting the caliper where it turns inside.
It was really close to the body.
Then bolt on the other side and the same thing. Loosen the bolts a little and the Rotor will turn but scrapes.
Then see a scratch in the rust of the hat part of the Rotor. The Caliper body right next to the Piston is bigger
and sits tight against the Rotor.

I go back in the evening and talk to this 18 - 20 yr old kid with an attitude.
He really didn`t want to be there, but here we are explaining to him the problem.
Tells me I probably have the wrong Rotors, and then ya know after 20 yrs the do change the calipers. WTF:confused:
I mention Iam on a MB Forum and never heard of this problem, well Iam on a Subaru Forum, and there are a
lot of idiots giving wrong info etc....

Actually Iam the idiot for going in the store in the first place. :o

I finally take one off my parts car and bolt it on. Fits perfectly with no binding.
Take picture of it along with theirs to show the difference.

This morning I go back and talk to an older guy and we look through the list of calipers etc...
IMC is one of their vendors, but would take a week to get one caliper in from Baltimore, MD and one was some where else.
He was getting frustrated also.
Looking at their prices and what Pelican shows, pelican probably cost more, but far less frustration and problems.

Pelican has a new ATE for $285 and O`Reilly shows one for $400 plus. :eek:

Tonight I looked up on their site to see what I can find. It shows a picture of a ATE caliper.
But the part # is BHH 19-339, same as what I picked up from them.
The pic and what ya get are not the same.

BrakeBest Brakes 19-339 - Brake Caliper | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I probably should have used the one`s off the parts car and been fine. I just might
do it just to get the car up and running.
Then order the replacements. Not that hard to swap them over.

The old rubber brake hoses have a date stamped on them of 11/79. so these are original to when it was built.
Some cracks in the rubber but not as bad as you would think.

Wonder if the Calipers are 35 yrs old also. :confused: :eek:.

I picked up a set of new hoses.....made in China.:cool:


Buy from the Forum and get it right the first time.


Charlie


sent from my pos computer

Sorry that all happened to you Charlie. I've had my fair share of wrong part mixups at work.

It took us a week to get the correct oil filter for a TDI Jetta. Apparently the California model took a different filter. The part suppliers eventually sourced it from the dealer in town, marked it up, and sold it to us. It was a ridiculous run around and it embarrassed my coworkers in front of the customer.

Been there, done that, hated it too...

I actually used to work at an O'Reallys, and I am about to start back at one until things pick up with my FT job. With brakes, you don't have any idea what you are getting until you look at them. If you specify Beck Arnley parts, often you will get OE or at least OEM, but not always.

Buyer beware, and dont be afraid to ask questions; it's the only way You and the Parts Geek can learn, often...

Might be a caliper rebuilder in your area. Maybe 50-60 dollars to have one done. Actually probably not much different than the average caliper from a parts store if any in average quality.
Perhaps even better than a Mexican rebuilt. Parts stores in general do not care much anymore about quality. Only the largest margin.

I ended up with Cardone remans bought locally to avoid shipping if wrong. Two brands were original equipment. One brand is significantly more expensive. I bought the cheap brand. Remans can be problematic. Mine are working. Change calipers in pairs and don't mix brands. Either brand is acceptable if working correctly.

I hate Cardone remans but sometimes the price is low enough or the alternative expensive enough that I buy. Keep the fluid changed and they will last.

I've had good luck with the national chain that shares a name with a valley in california's wine country. They usually have MB's in stock in the Chicago or Indy warehouse (next day/2 day ship to the midwest). Looks like ATE are in stock in Chi for under $70/e up to $200. Good luck.

PM sent

Since your there you may want to replace those original brake hoses. Even though they look good on the outside they could be delaminating on the inside.

My 240D had some wonky brake issues when I first bought it and replacing the original hoses which in fact were delaminating along with the calipers made a world of difference. And yes it was a pain to get the correct calipers and discs.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/97241-need-brake-advice-calipers-not-releasing.html

Guess I have been extreeeeemly lucky, cause I've gotten the correct calipers and pads on the first try from the "Irish" parts place. The parts geeks, be they male or female are very helpful and appear to be knowledgable as well.

Do find that it is very effective to order from Pelican though, especially if I have a rather large order.

Thank You for the info.


Charlie

sent from my pos computer
she`s ready to blow.:eek:

Barry mentioned a rebuilder

Did you not feel the urge to try and rebuild the calipers yourself?

Or were hopeful for a quick solution?

Rebuilding would have been a good idea. We're they corroded?

What's the hoopla about splitting/not splitting the 123 caliper halves?

I have never rebuilt a Caliper. I just wanted to get the car back on the road.
This was the quickest solution at the time. The latest when the parts guy said the caliper in Baltimore would
take a week to get here, and one in another wear house, that`s when I said for get it.

Iam taking the calipers back later in the day, it`s 4am now. The wind woke me up with things crashing out side. :eek: Checking weather.gov. wind gusts as high as 50mph. :eek: Big storm coming in from Calif, wind, rain, and snow the next several days.

Charlie


sent from my pos computer
she`s ready to blow.

Well wrap up warm Charlie - take a thermos of nice coffee just in case

That storm came thru Oregon Charlie. Gusts were up to 100 mph on our coast but slowed as it came inland. Tuesday, I had to go to a meeting in Salem and got caught in the previous wind storm. My E-420 had alarm problems, so I drove my 240D. Wind was blowing me all over the road until I slowed to 45mph. Just not as aerodynamic! Don

Edit: just looked at weather.com & I was wrong, our storm went into Eastern WA & Idaho. We are all catching bad weather though & more coming. Some pretty impressive pics of the damage. Winter is here, batten down the hatches and stay safe. Don

A lot of the storms do come down from Oregon and into northern Ca and go east into Nv.
Since we are on the east side of the Sierra Nevada Mt`s, the wind really picks up speed and can blow here in the high desert.

Not sure where this storm is coming from direction wise, but it will be a goodie for sure.
Haven`t lost power or the Satellite Internet...yet. If you are thinking of Hughes net....don`t. crappy internet.
The winds out here I think blow the satellite out of orbit sometimes .:D



The National Weather Service has issued a high wind warning from midnight tonight to 4 p.m. Thursday for the Reno-Carson City-Minden areas.

* Winds: south to southwest 30 to 45 mph with gusts up to 65 mph. Wind gusts of 70 to 80 mph are possible along wind prone locations especially along the Highway 395 and I-580 corridors.

Note: this is between Carson City and Reno, it will lay big rigs over like they were a leaf in the wind.

Timing: snow will move into the Lake Tahoe Basin late tonight with heavy snowfall by Thursday morning. Snow will decrease by Thursday evening with snow showers lingering into Friday morning.
Snow accumulations: above 7,000 feet, 1 to 2 feet with locally up to 3 feet near the Sierra crest. Below 7,000 feet, 7 to 14 inches except 12 to 18 inches west of Highway 89.
Winds: strong winds are expected tonight into Thursday Morning. Southwest 30 to 45 mph with gusts up to 65 mph ridge gusts up to 125 mph. Damage to trees is possible
Snow levels: 8,000 to 8,500 feet tonight then falling to below 5,500 feet by early Thursday afternoon
snow and blowing snow with whiteout conditions and icy roads. Snowfall rates will exceed plowing capabilities at times. This includes Interstate 80, Highway 50, California Highways 88, 89, 267 and Nevada Highways 28, 207 and 431. Significant delays and dangerous winter weather conditions possible for back country activities


So looks like we are in for it for a few days. a couple nights are to get down to 11 and 16 degrees. We are at the 5260 ft elevation.
See if I can get the wood stove to warm the shop enough to work on the car....but it won`t be in those low temps.

yeah the wind blew about every car I have ever owned on the road.
My old Datsun PU blew it around a bit. seems the harder it blows, the faster they drive.:eek:
There have been times I have the wheel turned into the wind to go straight.:D


Charlie

sent from my pos computer
she`s ready to blow.

I did not mention this because the reality is many if not most people just do not have the time. In the scramble for the dollar and all the complications of modern life. There just does not seem to be enough of it for far too many.

Reflecting on this. Current members may be some of the last generations that will be doing much work on their cars. It also is of no help at all that they are becoming more complex all the time.

My price quoted for having a caliper locally rebuilt was up here in Canada where it makes a lot more sense. We do not have easy access to these cars calipers at anywhere near American prices.

Plus even availability is getting thin. Shipping is also getting very high to get them delivered from the United States. Plus if they want a core back it makes it a disaster.

American local rebuilds may be cheaper there as well. Plus it is just not the newer cars but many things that seem to break today are far more difficult than in the past to deal with ourselves.

I also look for opportunities for any younger member needing a dollar. If shipping in the states is bearable. Get some cheap cores from auto wreckers and rebuilt a stock to sell to members.

Equipment wise it is pretty economical and not extremely difficult to work on. Others are doing it on some items. Who knows how busy you might become as word spread and you catered to more brands. Might even blow a mortgage away if you had one.

After spending yesterday out Christmas shopping with the wife. She had been telling me it is getting to be a pretty expensive world out there in general. I am now much more of a believer. Normally she takes care of almost all these things herself.

Makes me want to just rebuild my existing caliper, assuming there are kits for that. I did that long ago on a 1982 U.S. car, but I can get rebuilt calipers today for my U.S. vehicles for $25 ea. I had no idea M-B calipers were so proud.

Caliper problems seem common. I found the spare wheel was binding on the front caliper in my 2002 T&C during a roadside repair (had to put spare on rear). It seemed the caliper was slightly too large. I later found that mine w/ AWD & towing package has a different caliper and is supposed to have a full-size spare, not the emergency spare the used car dealer put in. Isn't easy to find this type of info.

I have the exact caliper mentioned in the op on my 82 right now.

Front right caliper on my 82 300d

Old one was sticking on, sourced a replacement from oriellys, went to put it on, and it didnt fit.

I had about 3 days before I needed to leave on a 2000 mile (round trip) road trip.

I took the angle grinder to the caliper where it was binding, got everything rolling freely, and it works great.

Dont get me wrong, modifying parts is the last thing I want to be doing, especially brand new parts, or brake parts for that matter, but I couldn't get a working caliper in time.

Brakes are great, think I need new rotors next, theres some odd vibration from the rear (its always been there though), ruled tires, wheels, and axles/cvs out.

I will likely replace rotors and rear calipers soon after we get back home.

Were those O`Reilly calipers gold color with a number in the casting like 19338 and 19339?
The area you ground down was it right where it is closest to the hat part of the rotor?

That is where they were tight against the Rotor.

I finally took them back to O`Rilly`s and got my money back. Now it is the problem with the Cores I gave them.
They don`t have them, and I need them for a core when ordering from the next vendor.
Which I did today from NAPA, their core charge is $37 X 2.
They should be in on Tuesday.

You are in Tenn and Iam in Nev and can`t get the right Calipers, wonder how many other 123 owners have had this problem?


Charlie


sent from my pos computer
she`s ready to blow

This is turning into a nightmare.

Are the first lot going to pay your core charge with the second lot?

This is going to be interesting because I ordered calipers for my '92 300D from the parts store that starts with a big "O", and I told the guy at the counter that when they come in if they don't have Ate, Bendix, or Lucas Girling stamped on them, he could send them back.

They came in today and when I picked them up the counter guy and I pulled them out of the box to check and the front had the Girling name on them and a Mercedes star emblazoned on one side, and they looked like a good reman. We then pulled the rears out of the box, and you could see the words Ate stamped on them, although it was faint on one caliper, and they also looked decent. Not doing the job till next week.....so we will see.

One thing I wondered about Charlie was whether you were using OEM rotors and pads and whether that might make a difference with the caliper you bot? I did buy OEM for the rotors and pads part of the job.

I did not change the Rotor, I was just replacing the Caliper. And I did not
install the Brake Pads.

I bolted on the Caliper, and tried to turn the Rotor, and it would not turn.
The caliper was up against the hat part of the Rotor very tight.

I found this thread doing a Google search of the caliper part # 19-339.

I saw this picture and it is exactly like what it looks like on my 240D. thought it came out of my camera.

Attached Thumbnails http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/..._1765-copy.jpg


You can see the scrape mark in the rust of the hat part of the Rotor.
That is the same gold Caliper they sold me.
I found this in the following thread.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/366194-wrong-caliper-binding-rotor-hub-ate-123-1980-a.html

You should not have to grind off any metal to modify the Caliper to fit.
It should fit right out of the box.

Charlie


sent from my pos computer
________________

Charlie, of my 2 MBZ's that are daily drivers, I rebuild all my MBZ brake calipers. Not a hard job. Kits are readily available. I believe the last I did was the w126 and the full kit was @ $25 each. Brake calipers is 1 thing I hang onto, to have a ready spare available.

That's just bloody ridiculous.

There's no way that's going to work.

They must be using halves from another design or car to try and cut down on manufacturing trauma...

I rebuilt calipers for my '80 coupe - it came with Bendix calipers but I have only found kits for ATE so I got some decent looking ATE's at the junkyard and then bought rebuild kits from this site. Did not split the calipeers open but used plenty of brake cleaner and compressed air to clean them up and used a little dab of Dow-Corning high vacuum grease to coat the pistons and seals. Replaced the flexible brake lines, too. This fix was a bit time consuming but seems to have worked out well. Most difficult part was bleeding - that became very frustrating. I finallt rigged up a way to bleed the MC by cutting off short some of the hard lines that exit the MC (spare, from junkyard) and had them dumping right back into the resevoir.

I have seen this problem posted a few times now. I am beginning to think these are new castings and they just didn't get the mold correct. Might be something we'll see often in the future when rebuildable cores are not available.

Thanks Charlie posting this. Too bad you had to go through this though.

Glad I saw this. I was thinking of going to Ohreally?, but decided to rebuild mine. I just bought the kits, Brand, Fahrzeug Technik Ebern (FTE).

Part number for 123, Bendix front caliper rebuild kit.

001 586 11 42

I have a big box with calipers in it from cars parted out years ago. I rarely ever have any trouble with calipers despite the age of the 123 chassis. If I had a bad one today I'd go to my box and pull one out for the correct side of the car and check it with a c clamp to me sure it is not seized. Then I'd bolt it on and see if it works. I'd bet a beer it will. The OE build quality on these 123 cars is not to be believed.

Charlie, I had the exact SAME experience with a caliper I bought from AutoZoo! Bought it, took it home, didn't get around to installing it right away... by the time I did I found to my dismay that the caliper rubbed against the disk! The difference was, in my case it was too late to return it, so I missed out on all the interaction with the non-helpful staff. I looked at that piece of junk and thought, "Well, I could spend an hour filing this thing down, or I could go to the place that specializes in German car parts... get in the car." Ended up buying a whole 'nother caliper, and the useless one still sits under the workbench in the garage for the day when somebody needs a core.

Kurt

Charmalu: that is the exact area I ground down, and the caliper looks identical, same color, etc.

I agree that it shouldn't need to be modified to fit, in my case I didn't have much choice, if I had more time before my trip I would have dealt with it differently.

They may not exactly be giving you the runaround. I bought a caliper from Pep Boys and decided to have them install. Although it was spec'd for an 81 300SD, it did not fit; they sent it back and got another - did not fit either. It ended up that Pep Boys could not produce the right one even though it was in their books; we finally went to an Atlanta foreign car parts called Baker Auto and the first one they produced fit and was installed by Pep Boys.

So there must have been slight changes that MB made to the calipers from 1981 to 1985 (was that the last year?) but were subtle enough that places like Pep Boys did not find out.

I think the calipers were cast or machined wrong. I don't think mb changed them slightly.

Yes, that could be too. The Pep Boys calipers absolutely would not fit.

About two months later I had them replace the other rear caliper and the experience was exactly the same. Ended up buying it from Baker Auto too.

Worth remembering, M.B. updated the Pads and Calipers in 1980.

Pre '80, used a 'thin' pad and caliper to suit.

Post 80-86 they used a Thicker pad and a caliper to suit the extra thickness of pad....

A 'Thin' Pre 80 pad will fit a Post 80 caliper but Not vice/versa.:D

Guess how I found THAT out!:(

Yesterday I stopped by O`Reilly`s to see what was up with my cores, since I returned the Calipers that did not fit.
I got my money returned for what I paid for the 2 Calipers.
They were $62.99 ea. X 2 = $125.98

If I did not have the cores to give them, then it would have been $87.99 for each Caliper. So the core charge is $25.00

They owe me $50 for the cores or give me the old one`s back.

Talked to the manager yesterday, and he sort of blows me off telling me I got the calipers for the price I did because I turned
in the cores. then said he was busy and had a conference call. WTF :confused:
I also mentioned to him, Iam on a MB Forum, and there are a few other guys that had this same problem. Said he had never
heard of it, and sold these to other MB owners and never a problem.
There are a few old 123`s around, think I`ll ask some of them if they had any problems etc...

Maybe these type of Calipers just have to wear in? :confused: :eek: :D :rolleyes: ;)

I stop by NAPA and pick up the ATE Calipers I ordered from them.
Wadaya know? They are actually ATE and have the MB Star on them.
Their price was a bit more at $67.97 ea and a $37.78 Core charge for $105.75 X 2 = $211.50 plus tax.

Today I head out to the shop to install the Calipers, new brake hoses and finally get the Alternator bolted up.
Oh, it was 10deg this morning, so wait till it eventually gets to 30. Built a fire in the shop wood stove, so at least the stove
is warm. It`s a big tin building, 40 x 50, so really didn`t heat it up all that much. Also using my HF Heat gun to warm my toes and hands warm.

It`s nice when the parts fit and the Rotors actually turn w/o binding.
I cleaned up the bolts on the wire wheel and put blue stuff on them and torqued them down.
Now need to bleed them and can`t find my motive bleeder. When I do, the MB adaptor cap for the MC disappeared some where in my move last year,
it`s out there some where. The universal adaptor is on it, so last time I used it was around 3yrs back replacing the MC on the Datsun. The damn thing leaks,
so I finally gravity bleed the brake lines.

Put the front wheels back on and torque them, drop the car back down and start the engine.
Then hear this ting ting ting. The alt fan blades it slightly hitting the body.
I swapped a 2 belt pulley for the one belt one. Iam using a 300D alt.
So slightly tweek ea blade with a Screw Driver and all is good. Start eng and sounds good.

In the morning we`ll give her a test drive and see how it goes. may have to rebleed the brakes with my Wife pumping the peddle.
need the car in the afternoon to take my 94 yr old Mom to the DR.


Charlie

Good luck. Keep us posted.

Well I'm glad to know my new ATEs will probably fit without trouble - fingers crossed eh?

I started work at my store, and they had said something about there being trouble with A1 Cardone, I think that is the brand you bought, correct? I haven't had a chance to get the full story of what they did; the point is, they no longer actively stock Cardone stuff, and are moving on to other suppliers. I'll try to get the full story.

It also sounds as if your manager is not very helpful; reporting that here is one of the few positive powers of the internet! You might call the customer service number below and see what can be done if you are not satisfied...

1-800-755-6759

I had not noticed this thread before.

Beware, I had this issue when I ordered calipers last year from my local indy euro parts store. She flagged issues with some of the rebuilders' catalogue info, when she saw that the part number they were using was the same as other models (that definitely have other style calipers). Even after she called the supplier and tried to knock it into their heads, we had to order stuff in twice.

The problem is that they use & confuse "Mercedes 300 series" as a catalogue reference and use it for a mix of parts from (I am guessing) w116, w123 and w126 cars that are badged "300". The biggest problem is with SD vs. D.

I have also noticed this problem at generic web parts vendor sites (which I avoid like the plague, but I happened to be looking for something last year that was out of stock everywhere so I went further afield than usual).

Note to others: Cardone is problematic. Buy locally in case you have to return. There are 2 brands "ATE" and another listed in the FSM. Take whichever you can buy in sets. The cheaper brand works fine. O'Reiley may give the expensive one at the cheaper price to get you out the door.

Note to self: Keep cores until I'm sure that both calipers are working well ie don't drop the cores when picking up remans.
Compare with old parts before walking out the door. Rears have been boxed as fronts. (rears are smaller) Left has been boxed as right or vice versa. Bleed screw ALWAYS at top.

Here is a little follow up on my Caliper issue.
I just got off of talking to O`Reilly`s customer service. I explained the whole situation from ordering them, and then not fitting correctly, binding on the Rotor.
And the back and forth frustration talking to the various employees and the Manager not returning my core deposit.

Customer service said they need to either return the cores, or pay me the core charge.
They would talk to the MGR. and I would get my money back.
I don`t understand why the MGR. kind of blew me off like he did.

Craig at customer service is a really nice guy and helpful. 1-888-327-7153.

Couple nights ago we took the 240 for a run up to Carson City (20+ miles) and some running around. Brakes work great.
I mentioned that I gravity bled them, and after a little working of the peddle to get the Caliper pistons settled in, they work great.

I have put a couple hundred miles on it so far.

I have the Alternator finally working w/o the light coming on.
Mentioned I replaced the VR first, then used an alt. off the parts car with a good VR, and finally
after swapping the 2 belt pulley from a 300D for a single one,
she is working great.
So guess we went from a 55 to a 65 amp one.

Sitting in the shop for 2 plus weeks, now the pass door won`t close w/o slamming it. This is a first.
So either needs the Latch mechanism greased up or it is the Striker.
Then last night locked up my Wife`s Purse in the Trunk, then it wouldn`t unlock. :eek: and she has all the money. :rolleyes:

Get home put her in the shop (car) used a heat gun and working the key and she opened.
Needs a shot of kroil again.

So dang windy today, probably knock me on my a$$ before getting out there. LOL :D

Charlie

Good work Charlie!

Glad to here OR is doing what they can, that manager sure seems to be going about it the wrong way.

I have seen too many people promoted to manager positions that seem to have an attitude issue. No brains at all either usually.

They actually do not own the enterprise and any customer issues resolved easily and properly do not come out of their own pockets. I guess you never can really fix stupid.

Windy today is an understatement.

I was thinking since you now work for "O", and you have a W123, why don`t you order in
a set of these wonderful Calipers and show your manager how they fit on the car.

You would only have to remove one wheel, pull the caliper and hang it to the SB or something.
Then he could see where they bind against the Rotor. maybe he could send in some feed back
to the Corp. Head Quarters.

You would need to put some blue loc-tite on the bolts and torque them down to 115 NM.

I was looking up on their site to see what they show again.
They show Bendix and the supposedly ATE`s.
The ATE`s looks much larger.

Brake Caliper - 1980 Mercedes-Benz 240D | O'Reilly Auto Parts


Charlie

Took a run down to Carson City this evening. but coming back towards Minden.
I was hard right rudder to keep her going straight down the Hwy. LOL


Charlie

If you take your Calipers apart and find the innards are not too pitted just install a Seal Kit. That way tyou know the Calipers are going to fit and you get to build in the quality yourself.

O-rings for splitting brake calipers See Post #70 and the Posts on to the end of the thread.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/273570-splitting-brake-calipers.html

I have never had a failure since the 1975 (when I first got a car that had Disc Brakes.) on any of the Brake Calipers I have resealed as long as I made sure the Caliper Piston was not pitted and the Caliper Bore was not pitted too badly up near where the Seal goes.
I just don't rush myself when I do the Job.

This is what I did for mine on my W123. I kept the original calipers and took them for rebuild. Cost me 75.00 each, done in a day and a half with new bleeders. PERFECT.

I am now starting to collect other W123 parts and rebuild kits.