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  #1  
Old 02-09-2016, 06:29 AM
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Replace EGR air with a CO2 paint ball tank gas

I just had a stroke.. Of genius!

EGR lets in some inert gas from exhaust to reduce cylinder temps and this reduces nox emission. But EGR also mixes oil mist with soot parties and gunks up engine. What if I hook up a CO2 tank to the Egr valve and let it send clean Co2 into the intake. Would that work. I know, I know , please save the applause for me until later. Mike

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  #2  
Old 02-09-2016, 08:21 AM
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I think that the main issue would be the hassle and cost of having to constantly refill the tank. That, and most people buying 30+ year-old diesels aren't terribly concerned with emissions .
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  #3  
Old 02-09-2016, 09:03 AM
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You'd burn through your CO2 very quickly.

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  #4  
Old 02-09-2016, 03:39 PM
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Not feasible.

Why not just let the EGR do its job as it had been for 30 years or more?
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  #5  
Old 02-09-2016, 05:14 PM
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Or just unplug the vacuum line to the EGR valve and let it not do its job. Unless you actually care about a few NOx emissions.
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  #6  
Old 02-10-2016, 02:26 AM
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Hey guys, how many EGR`s have you seen that actually work after 30 years?

Every EGR I have pulled off a 617 in the yards and my own 85 300D, they all are plugged tight with black gunk.
I should say, the hole in the Manifold looks like a black plug in it.
Also the inside of the Manifold is full of the black gunk.
Which eventually plugs up the Banjo Bolt in the end of the manifold that send the boost sig to the ALDA.

Now if you worship the black gunk wizard more power to ya. LOL.

What does co2 do? Give you more power?
Get a JATO Rocket and stick it into the intake for more PWR. Zoom-----Zoom...


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

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  #7  
Old 02-10-2016, 04:14 AM
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Great! Glad your all on board. Co2 comes out the bottle real cold. So I recon it will work like a super cold air intake of inert gas. I won't need as much as I thought. It's dark out right now and I can't remember were the egr connects to the intake manifold. I don't think I want to spray freezing co2 on the turbo blades. Might have to connect to the air cleaner some how..........
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  #8  
Old 02-10-2016, 09:17 AM
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Let us know how it works out, to be honest it sounds like a colossal waste of your time. Why don't you adjust your valves instead or do something that will actually make the car run better.

You could run nitrous or propane if that's really what you're trying to do.
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  #9  
Old 02-10-2016, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123mike View Post
Great! Glad your all on board. Co2 comes out the bottle real cold. So I recon it will work like a super cold air intake of inert gas. I won't need as much as I thought. It's dark out right now and I can't remember were the egr connects to the intake manifold. I don't think I want to spray freezing co2 on the turbo blades. Might have to connect to the air cleaner some how..........
If you connect to the Air Cleaner, then you will be pre Turbo.
The CO-2 will be going through the Turbo.

Some how connecting to the EGR Valve, (if possible) you will be going straight into the Intake Manifold.

The EGR only dumps in exhaust gases only under certain engine conditions.
So you would not be getting constant CO-2.

Could the EGR valve handle the high pressures of the CO-2 bottle?


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #10  
Old 02-10-2016, 11:19 AM
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I don't think there's any part on any 30+ year old car that does not need to be cleaned, resealed, or serviced somehow. A quick cleaning and function test makes the EGR system functional again and is MUCH MUCH easier than fabbing up a CO2 injection system.
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  #11  
Old 02-10-2016, 12:43 PM
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A few thoughts:

1) There isn't enough soot going back through the motor to do any lasting harm. I bet there aren't many motors represented on this list with less than a quarter of a million miles. When I redid my head at 312K miles, I was surprised that there was still crosshatching on the cylinder walls. And yes, my EGR still works perfectly.
2) Clean the manifold and EGR valve once in a great while, and there isn't a problem. If manifold deposits offend you, implementing a more efficient oil separator in the vent line is the most effective course of action.
3) How much gas are you running through the motor? The quantity matters...CO2 expands more than O2, so you need to engineer this properly, or you may get too much bang for your buck.
4) Every EGR equipped engine has a system which implements an EGR curve. No EGR at all at idle and high loads, varying amounts in between. The curve is determined by meticulous dyno testing. Again, it's not a random exercise. How you meter the gas makes a difference.
5) The EGR valve is downstream from the turbo, you won't be impinging directly on the compressor wheel. But you'd better be damned sure that you have some sort of protection against pressurized air pushing back into your tank.
6) How would you measure the impact on pollutants? The rig they use to measure over the road NOx emissions costs more than your old bucket of bolts.
7) Is there really any point to this exercise?
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2016, 12:48 PM
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Or you could be really, really green and just get a Tesla and forget the whole EGR, CO2, NOx thing....

....oops, forgot, they run on coal
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  #13  
Old 02-10-2016, 12:51 PM
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I've always been leery of removing the EGR in my 1995 OM606 simply because it will increase combustion temps, I ran my OM617 300SD with a BB in the EGR line for years with no ill effect, but I know those old all-iron OM engines are nearly indestructible, but I want to keep my more delicate aluminum/iron OM606 in better shape by keeping it plugged in an functioning to keep everything as it was originally engineered. I just take the manifold off every 50k or so (when changing glow plugs) and de-carbon it and motor on happily. There wasn't much accumulation in there last time as I cleaned it REALLY well the first time around, and the motor is seemingly in great tune right now.

YMMV, but I don't think I'd bother with the CO2 thing personally, but I am interested to know what happens.
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  #14  
Old 02-10-2016, 06:59 PM
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Of course I am gonna do this! Right after I change the rear axle, the broke cv boot, the water leak in the Saab 900 and the coolant temp sensor, right after I get the rx7 cleaned up and buy a speedo cable and fix the tach. After I do taxes and vote. Mike.
Ps, I will probably just keep driving and forget about it.
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  #15  
Old 02-13-2016, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatguy View Post
I've always been leery of removing the EGR in my 1995 OM606 simply because it will increase combustion temps, I ran my OM617 300SD with a BB in the EGR line for years with no ill effect, but I know those old all-iron OM engines are nearly indestructible, but I want to keep my more delicate aluminum/iron OM606 in better shape by keeping it plugged in an functioning to keep everything as it was originally engineered. I just take the manifold off every 50k or so (when changing glow plugs) and de-carbon it and motor on happily. There wasn't much accumulation in there last time as I cleaned it REALLY well the first time around, and the motor is seemingly in great tune right now.
Don't confuse combustion temperature (chemistry) with combustion chamber wall temperature (metallurgy). You can raise combustion chamber temperatures to where NOx emissions are beyond spec without ticking a gradient on a cylinder head temperature gauge on an engine with properly functioning cooling system. On the other hand, EGR won't save you from the detrimental effects of overloading the engine.

Sixto
83 300SD

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