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#1
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617 engine fan rattling & loose
Hi there,
My 300TD has produced a rattle in the last 2 weeks and it seems to be the fan has become loose on its shaft, I can rock it back and forth. I can't see due to the radiator and the cowling but is there a single bold that holds this on and is it a normal thread that I can get to with everything in situ? Many thanks from over the pond! |
#2
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Sounds like your fan clutch is failed. Or perhaps the four 10mm bolts holding it in are loose. With the radiator shroud unfastened and moved out of the way it is accessible in site but not without a lot of squeezing and vigorous cursing. Good luck!
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#3
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Ouch, sounds expensive... at least I know that there is a clutch in it now
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#4
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The FSM says that the fan clutches are supposed to be stored in their working position. How one would determine if a parts house has done that I do not know... just reporting what the FSM says...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#5
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A used one from an auto wrecker may get you by. Not a common failure.
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#6
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My JY clutch has lasted two years (65k miles) so that's definitely an option worth considering. Of course one could fail in a month too.
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Current Stable
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#7
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Quote:
Actually if one could find a working volume of the internal silicone fluid. You could perhaps dump out what was in a used fan clutch. Measure it and reinstall the fluid or add to it if indicated. Unless the original fluid was dirty. Then all new fluid. Chances are that just another used one would be fine as is. Once they are noisey the shaft seal probably becomes history. I never would use used parts in many areas. If they had a high failure rate. On the other hand for those parts that seldom fail is another thing. |
#8
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Somewhere in the archives are threads by people who have refilled their fan viscous fluid....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#9
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I bought a new $35 fan clutch on ebay, but appeared to slip excessively after a few years. A junkyard one was cheap and seems to move more air. The 4 factory bolts require that you grind down a box wrench to fit. The flats are so small you risk rounding them off if you use an open-end wrench. I replaced w/ bolts w/ a larger head (from Ace drawers, "JIC large head" I recall) so an open wrench now works fine for me (search my post for PN).
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans Last edited by BillGrissom; 03-05-2016 at 04:39 PM. |
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