Hey everyone,

Last weekend I tried to install a new drag link in 240D, but ran into trouble tightening it down. When I came here and read the DIYs, it made reference to a Allen wrench sockets in the shafts at the ends of the drag link that can be used to keep the shafts from turning, but mine doesn't have that -- it's just a smooth cup that I can't grip with anything.

Has anyone else run into this? How have you resolved it? I was thinking of maybe drilling a left-hand drill bit into the shafts to hold in place with a vise-grip or something while i tighten the nut down. Any other ideas?

Here a picture:

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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

I ran into this when I had to replace the spindle on my E300 after the front wheel bearing grenaded.

The trick is to apply force such that the root of the stud binds against the hole in the wheel carrier. Put the stud through the hole, set your floor jack under the end of the link, and apply some upward pressure. The goal is to seat that collar next to your index finger in the hole snugly enough to resist the torque you are applying to tighten the nut.

Must have saved them a few cents in manufacturing costs to delete that hex on the end of the stud...

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Ahh duh, should have thought of that! Thanks.

__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

You can also use a plain nut to seat the taper then replace with the lock nut.

Don't over tighten as it will be difficult to take apart. It takes way less torque that you'd think because the taper holds things together.

Cool, I'll try that if the floor jack doesn't work out.

I'll make sure not to overtighten the nut -- I'm not a very strong guy, so I don't tend to overtighten stuff in general.

__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

Any type of driven tool to spin the nut will help. I use an 18 V battery operated impact gun when there is enough room. Otherwise a 3/8 or even 1/4" drive air ratchet works. Use a torq wrench once the shaft stops turning.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.