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  #16  
Old 03-11-2016, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyl604 View Post
Do not understand. Put a spanner/wrench in front of the old brake pad and then turn the wrench with another wrench? Do not know what you mean.
Slot a spanner 'handle' between the worn pad and the rotor as the space is limited. Then twist it with another spanner. The twisting motion will rotate the spanner handle and push the piston back. Use clamp will not give you as much force or apply the force squarely on the piston.

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  #17  
Old 03-11-2016, 06:27 PM
tyl604's Avatar
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Pep Boys fails again - aargh.

One piston absolutely would not budge so I installed the brake caliper from Pep Boys. After competing the job and putting the tire back on, I found that the tire would not move - at all. Binding on the caliper. So again Pep Boys sold me a part that does not fit.

When will I learn?

Called Pelican Parts today but the Mercedes specialist was not working. Maybe tomorrow.

Here is a pic of the old caliper. One side piston flat and the other pouched out about 3/4 inch. Not sure it can be rebuilt. Was thinking about trying as Pep Boys core charge is only $4 but with Pelican charging $30 for core do not think it is worth the chance.



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  #18  
Old 03-11-2016, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah-kay View Post
Have you tried to loosen the bleeding nipple? I always do that when I try to push the piston back in. I put a good spanner between the worn pad and the rotor, and turn it with another spanner slowly. It will push the piston back. Then tighten the bleeding nipple again. Top up the fluid reservoir if necessary. It always works for me. Give it a try, nothing to lose.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie Foxtrot View Post
A failing brake hose is one of the hidden problems associated with stuck piston in the caliper. If opening the bleeder allows the piston to be pushed back into the caliper, you have a bad hose. The hose is acting like a check valve. A thirty+ year old hose that is suspect should be replaced.
Agreed, what these guys said. I had this happen on a truck that was only 12 years old.
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  #19  
Old 03-11-2016, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyl604 View Post
One piston absolutely would not budge so I installed the brake caliper from Pep Boys. After competing the job and putting the tire back on, I found that the tire would not move - at all. Binding on the caliper. So again Pep Boys sold me a part that does not fit.

When will I learn?

Called Pelican Parts today but the Mercedes specialist was not working. Maybe tomorrow.

Here is a pic of the old caliper. One side piston flat and the other pouched out about 3/4 inch. Not sure it can be rebuilt. Was thinking about trying as Pep Boys core charge is only $4 but with Pelican charging $30 for core do not think it is worth the chance.



Amazing, do you think Pep Boys and O`Reilly`s might have the same supplier?

Did you read post #5 where I had my problems? I posted a picture showing where it was tight against the Rotor.
I loosened it up a bit and turned the Rotor and heard the scraping sound.
Then saw the line in the rust on the Rotor.

Go to NAPA and have them order you two ATE Calipers. You will have them in a day or so. Be sure to order the Pads and Hoses.

I was replacing mine because the L/F out side seal blew fluid.


Charlie
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  #20  
Old 03-11-2016, 08:55 PM
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I have Bendix; will order them from Pelican probably tomorrow. Trying to keep it as stock as possible and that is what was in the original build. Nothing against ATE. Nothing wrong with the other Bendix caliper. The two in the rear have already been replaced by our friends Pep Boys who were not able to supply the part but bought it on the economy and charged me.
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  #21  
Old 03-11-2016, 11:17 PM
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When replacing the caliper bolts, be sure to clean them well, and re coat the threads with THREADLOCKER BLUE!!! NVER USE ANTISEIZE OR NEVERSIEZE!!!!!
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  #22  
Old 03-12-2016, 12:28 AM
cfh cfh is offline
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I went through a stuck caliper fiasco. Fixed the problem it by taking tthe calipers off the car; cleaned out lots of nasty snotty goop-- cleaned them thoroughly, blowing out the passages and tunnels; replaced the soft brake lines; put new seals in the calipers; coated the bores with Dow Corning Hi-Temp vacuum grease before re-installing the pistons. Flushed out all the old brake fluid. Had one that cylinder that still leaked a little and eventually replaced it with another from pick 'n pull; put new seals in that one too. Also replaced rotors with pick 'n pull rotors with much less wear (my car is up over 400k miles and I don't remember ever changing rotors before). Brakes work great now. I have more confidence in rebuilding the original stuff over buying new cheap parts from who knows where.

As stated above, the stuck caliper fiasco can be avoided with regular brake fluid flushes; if you haven't been doing that, then at least pull the calipers and clean them out with compressed air and brake cleaner. It's not that difficult. And don't forget to replace the rubber brake lines - a must-do regular maintenance item.
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  #23  
Old 03-12-2016, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfh View Post
I went through a stuck caliper fiasco. Fixed the problem it by taking tthe calipers off the car; cleaned out lots of nasty snotty goop-- cleaned them thoroughly, blowing out the passages and tunnels; replaced the soft brake lines; put new seals in the calipers; coated the bores with Dow Corning Hi-Temp vacuum grease before re-installing the pistons. Flushed out all the old brake fluid. Had one that cylinder that still leaked a little and eventually replaced it with another from pick 'n pull; put new seals in that one too. Also replaced rotors with pick 'n pull rotors with much less wear (my car is up over 400k miles and I don't remember ever changing rotors before). Brakes work great now. I have more confidence in rebuilding the original stuff over buying new cheap parts from who knows where.

As stated above, the stuck caliper fiasco can be avoided with regular brake fluid flushes; if you haven't been doing that, then at least pull the calipers and clean them out with compressed air and brake cleaner. It's not that difficult. And don't forget to replace the rubber brake lines - a must-do regular maintenance item.
I like the sound of this fix.
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  #24  
Old 03-12-2016, 11:19 AM
cfh cfh is offline
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I have gotten stuck brake pistons out by re-installing the piston on the side that will move (lube it up nice, first, so you will be able to remove it easily by hand later, after you are successful getting the other side out); then rigging up someting to hold it in place (I used two end wrenches parallel to each other, connected with long bolts to jerry-rig a kind of clamp or brace) then put the caliper back on the car with no brake pads and used the peddle pressure to eject the piston that was stuck. Watch out -- you don't want your fingers anywhere near there when the piston that was stuck shoots out.
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  #25  
Old 04-19-2016, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post


Go to NAPA, and you will get ATE`s with the MB star. Painted a nice Purdy shinny black. Come with new brake hardware.
Around $67 and a $35 core if you don`t have cores to give them.

W123 front Brake Calipers. run around at auto parts store




Charlie
I'm looking for these at NAPA, they said they only have an ATM brand.

EDIT: Swung by another car parts store, they only carried Cardone re-manufactured ones.
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Last edited by mbzr4ever; 04-20-2016 at 06:17 AM.
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  #26  
Old 04-19-2016, 09:33 PM
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Replaced and new caliper is working well.

Thanks for the help.
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  #27  
Old 04-20-2016, 02:20 AM
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Building calipers, brake and clutch masters, slave cylinders and wheel cylinders used to be SOP before imported parts became so cheap. Take it apart in this case by holding 1 piston and blowing air into the connection where the hose screws in. One the 1st piston is out, stick it back in to prevent the air leak, brace it and blow the other piston out. Clean the caliper including the piston bores then clean up the bores with a cylinder hone and reassemble using new seals.

My old brake hones are in the tool box. The arms are held to the center piece with o-rings. They haven't been used in so long that the o-rings dry rotted.

I've bought A1-Cardone remanned calipers and have had them boxed wrong (driver side in box marked for passenger side, front in box for rear) etc. Have also had piston be installed crooked and bleed screw tapped crooked. They seem to last once a working set is found. Errors have been so frequent that I examine carefully before leaving store, keep my core until completely satisfied and always buy locally to avoid time and expense of shipping. Peach sells crappy Cardones also so is not immune.

Replacing fluid via flush helps them last. Job for this summer on all my vehicles (4 + 78 Datsun Z if I get it back on the road with Megasquirt.)
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  #28  
Old 04-20-2016, 04:27 AM
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Put a large G clamp on to the piston after pads are removed screw it back in .It will go with a bang as it corroded .

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