Slot a spanner 'handle' between the worn pad and the rotor as the space is limited. Then twist it with another spanner. The twisting motion will rotate the spanner handle and push the piston back. Use clamp will not give you as much force or apply the force squarely on the piston.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

One piston absolutely would not budge so I installed the brake caliper from Pep Boys. After competing the job and putting the tire back on, I found that the tire would not move - at all. Binding on the caliper. So again Pep Boys sold me a part that does not fit.

When will I learn?

Called Pelican Parts today but the Mercedes specialist was not working. Maybe tomorrow.

Here is a pic of the old caliper. One side piston flat and the other pouched out about 3/4 inch. Not sure it can be rebuilt. Was thinking about trying as Pep Boys core charge is only $4 but with Pelican charging $30 for core do not think it is worth the chance.

Agreed, what these guys said. I had this happen on a truck that was only 12 years old.

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-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

Amazing, do you think Pep Boys and O`Reilly`s might have the same supplier?

Did you read post #5 where I had my problems? I posted a picture showing where it was tight against the Rotor.
I loosened it up a bit and turned the Rotor and heard the scraping sound.
Then saw the line in the rust on the Rotor.

Go to NAPA and have them order you two ATE Calipers. You will have them in a day or so. Be sure to order the Pads and Hoses.

I was replacing mine because the L/F out side seal blew fluid.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I have Bendix; will order them from Pelican probably tomorrow. Trying to keep it as stock as possible and that is what was in the original build. Nothing against ATE. Nothing wrong with the other Bendix caliper. The two in the rear have already been replaced by our friends Pep Boys who were not able to supply the part but bought it on the economy and charged me.

When replacing the caliper bolts, be sure to clean them well, and re coat the threads with THREADLOCKER BLUE!!! NVER USE ANTISEIZE OR NEVERSIEZE!!!!!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I went through a stuck caliper fiasco. Fixed the problem it by taking tthe calipers off the car; cleaned out lots of nasty snotty goop-- cleaned them thoroughly, blowing out the passages and tunnels; replaced the soft brake lines; put new seals in the calipers; coated the bores with Dow Corning Hi-Temp vacuum grease before re-installing the pistons. Flushed out all the old brake fluid. Had one that cylinder that still leaked a little and eventually replaced it with another from pick 'n pull; put new seals in that one too. Also replaced rotors with pick 'n pull rotors with much less wear (my car is up over 400k miles and I don't remember ever changing rotors before). Brakes work great now. I have more confidence in rebuilding the original stuff over buying new cheap parts from who knows where.

As stated above, the stuck caliper fiasco can be avoided with regular brake fluid flushes; if you haven't been doing that, then at least pull the calipers and clean them out with compressed air and brake cleaner. It's not that difficult. And don't forget to replace the rubber brake lines - a must-do regular maintenance item.

I like the sound of this fix.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I have gotten stuck brake pistons out by re-installing the piston on the side that will move (lube it up nice, first, so you will be able to remove it easily by hand later, after you are successful getting the other side out); then rigging up someting to hold it in place (I used two end wrenches parallel to each other, connected with long bolts to jerry-rig a kind of clamp or brace) then put the caliper back on the car with no brake pads and used the peddle pressure to eject the piston that was stuck. Watch out -- you don't want your fingers anywhere near there when the piston that was stuck shoots out.

I'm looking for these at NAPA, they said they only have an ATM brand.

EDIT: Swung by another car parts store, they only carried Cardone re-manufactured ones.

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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K

Replaced and new caliper is working well.

Thanks for the help.

Building calipers, brake and clutch masters, slave cylinders and wheel cylinders used to be SOP before imported parts became so cheap. Take it apart in this case by holding 1 piston and blowing air into the connection where the hose screws in. One the 1st piston is out, stick it back in to prevent the air leak, brace it and blow the other piston out. Clean the caliper including the piston bores then clean up the bores with a cylinder hone and reassemble using new seals.

My old brake hones are in the tool box. The arms are held to the center piece with o-rings. They haven't been used in so long that the o-rings dry rotted.

I've bought A1-Cardone remanned calipers and have had them boxed wrong (driver side in box marked for passenger side, front in box for rear) etc. Have also had piston be installed crooked and bleed screw tapped crooked. They seem to last once a working set is found. Errors have been so frequent that I examine carefully before leaving store, keep my core until completely satisfied and always buy locally to avoid time and expense of shipping. Peach sells crappy Cardones also so is not immune.

Replacing fluid via flush helps them last. Job for this summer on all my vehicles (4 + 78 Datsun Z if I get it back on the road with Megasquirt.)

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Put a large G clamp on to the piston after pads are removed screw it back in .It will go with a bang as it corroded .