So I've done front rotors, calipers, pads, hoses now. Was my first job of this sort and I'm feeling pretty good about making it through that intro.

When I go to bleed them later today (using a pressure bleeder) do I need to bled all 4 wheels, even though I haven't touched the rear?

Yes, bleed all. Start at the furthest (RR) and work your way to the closest.

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83 SD

84 CD

Your system will stay in better shape when you change the fluid. Some on other forums claim very long service out of calipers & masters after regularly flushing. Old service manuals used to recommend regular brake & clutch fluid changed because brake fluid absorbs water. Water corrodes metal.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Your calipers look exactly like what I got from NAPA, and in the same box.
Both of mine are ATE and have the MB star in the casting.

Here was my run around trying to find the right Calipers.

W123 front Brake Calipers. run around at auto parts store


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Junkman, i forgot to mention I had my master cylinder replaced a few weeks ago and all new fluid/flush.

Would you still recommend I bleed rear even though I only worked on front?

Those pistons look like they have been refinished. It often flakes off and seizes the piston in the bore. Not trying to be alarmist, just a heads up. Keep all receipts and make sure they are working properly the week before your warranty ends.

if the fluid in the rear is fresh, no need to replace it.

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Success. Everything seems to be working. Thanks to all for the various help and advice. First brake job!

Hopefully the pistons are ok. I'll be keeping a close eye on these and will be doing rear next month.

OK I'm stumped. I got new calipers and pads because I couldn't compress the piston back in the caliper. I can't figure out the purpose of the clip. It just sits over the pads. The pads do not sit tight against the caliper. What keeps the pads off the rotor, because they are loose in the caliper now?

Thanks,

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1983 300D Turbo, 150K

They are anti rattle clips. Use the blue spray on the back of the pads or shims for squeal. The pads just retreat from the rotors. Nothing to worry about.

What is the blue spray?

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1983 300D Turbo, 150K

you buy that from autozone - its called brake pad antisqueal - you spray it, let it tack and install the pad. I use that sometimes but i also find moly or copper antisieze to work just as well.

The pads themselves dont need a spring mechanism to retract, the spinning disc will throw them out, they are kept at near zero clearance on the disc.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

You should also buy the wear sensor wires. They are cheap. Often they break when removing, and with your decription of a lot of corrison/rust it is a good idea to change them.

We have had the discussion before, but those rebuilt calipers for a 300D should have heat shields. They did when the car was new. Napa & Cardone don't include them. Can't imagine why. Our local rebuilder puts them on. Keep an eye on the rubber seals each time you change pads.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

i got mine from O'reillys. Brake Best, the rubber gasket and thin metal are on the caliper piston. And I did order the wear sensors(4) are mine was shot on one side and the light was on. Just over a $1 on this site, and I bought new hoses as lots of black bits came out of the fluid in the caliper.

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1983 300D Turbo, 150K