I just tried the drill bit on 2 tumblers. On one the 1.5 mm drill fit but on the other it was very tight. I tried a 1.4 mm and it worked perfectly on both after rounding the end so it didn't dig into the ramp on the square pin.
I don't think you should have a problem with the drill breaking as it takes very little outward pressure to retract the pin completely after the "tool" is fully inserted.

Success. I went and bought a #54 drill bit which fit perfectly and by turning the lock bezel slightly as I pushed the drill bit outwardly I was able to unscrew the lock bezel and remove the tumbler. Thanks everyone for your help.

I am still wondering how a 3 year old MBZ tumbler failed so quickly. I only use a single key (single key on my key ring) and only drive the car under 5000 miles per year. The entire switch mechanism is 3 years old also. Go figure.

Bevel the end of the poker with a short 60 degree angle to ease slipping between the wall of the hole and release pin works every time.

Most likely it's just gunked up but that surprises me too. The originals lasted for decades. Did you buy a new key when you bought the tumbler?

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Good to see you got it out.
Could you dissect the tumbler to see what failed? Would be interesting to see what went wrong.

I am going to take the tumbler to a known locksmith and I will let you know. Thanks again. I installed the new MBZ switch, tumbler and key 3 years ago. Within 2 days of installation the rubber cap broke off the key, I glued it back on. About a week ago it started to stick, and then yesterday would not turn at all. After about an hour of fiddling with it I finally was able to turn it to position 1, and quickly left it there (I disconnected the battery). I drive this car less than 5000 miles a year. I asked Tom Hanson at the Classic Center and he was dumbfounded. As they say S--T happens.

Strange! Did you spray any greasy lube in the tumbler which could attract debris? Did you get a new key with the tumbler?

Nothing but a dry lube should go in a tumbler. Graphite is one of the best. I have garage door lock where it was very difficult to insert the key. Had to jiggle the key while inserting it to get it all the way in. I took a No. 2 graphite pencil, rubbed it all over the key into all the nooks and crannies, insert key and turned it back and forth a few times, repeat that for about 5X to get more graphite in the lock. Now the key goes it super smooth. I'm keeping a No. 2 pencil in every car.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

No spray of any kind ever used. New MBZ tumbler with new key, new complete MBZ complete switch with steering wheel lock and vacuum shut off less than 3 years ago. Used with the ignition key only, never excess keys on key ring.

I have recently read where even genuine MBZ tumblers are failing after a few years. I will try the graphite from a pencil on the new tumbler.

Does the tumbler have the same failure when removed from the lock?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

The tumbler seems fine outside of the lock.

Then the failure is not with the tumbler?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Good question. I am not sure how to tell whether the problem is the tumbler or the switch.

If the tumbler moves freely outside of the switch, the tumbler is fine. The ignition lock housing is locking up. You need to change the lock housing while you have the ability to remove the collar and the tumbler.

In our case, we were able to free the tumbler by striking it while turning it and got it home. Next turn was the last.

Ended up following diesel giants process to get the old one out. Do yourself a favor and change the lock while still able

Sorry I beamed into this thread a little late.

I went through weeks of frustration on mine last year. Luckily the key was still turning at the time. But just.

I had the same problem as the OP, nothing seemed to want to release the tumbler assembly. I watched all the YT videos and got advice from several people on this forum.

Finally someone suggested trying to turn the locking ring with channel lock pliers while the 'rod' was inserted. Sure enough it moved... just.

From what I can tell, on the previous install whomever did it managed to mess up the threads on the lock assembly. OR, possibly they used the wrong part number. There are two ring part numbers, for early/late cars.

However, after all that... I installed the new tumbler and the key action was still notchy. (Imagine the pure bliss of that moment.)

I ended up dropping the column and replacing everything for good measure: electrical switch and complete column lock assembly (+ of course new lock ring).

Also I seem to recall there was a thread at some point about others having issues with premature failure of OE steering column locks? Sorry memory not helping me on that one.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

I have ordered a new lock as well as a new tumbler. As I have 3 W123 cars (coupe, wagon & sedan), I have a lot of experience changing the locks and tumblers. It is just aggravating that these 3 year old genuine MBZ parts fail so quickly. I think the early security bezel was pushed on while the late was a screw on bezel. I have the screw on type (1985).