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  #1  
Old 04-29-2016, 10:50 AM
zu! zu! is offline
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Unhappy What does one do to an old iron horse...

Truth be told, this iron horse has been beaten to death.

its finally come down to it. My daughter's been driving the old Benz ('84 300D) and complaining of a squeeky sound when she turns. I had my suspicions, and when I looked I confirmed it...the rear lower control arm was literally rusting apart. I'd had it welded before and it worked fine for over 2 years, but now it broke apart in another spot...there's just no more space to weld. Coupled with the rust just about everywhere else on the frame, I've come to the sad conclusion that its time to say goodbye to my old friend.

It's given me years of boring reliability. Taken me through untold number of storms, bad weather, snowy roads where 4x4s went off the roads went up hills that other cars could only slide down...its been great.

Its a pity though...its only 770 or so thousand km on the clock. Still lots of life left in that turbo engine. Lots of pep left in its takeoff. The transmission has always slipped and bumped at a certain point, but I learned quickly how to let off on the pedal, then push it and it would catch perfectly, every single time. So...even that is literally bulletproof.

But the cancer...it spreads. She's sitting at my mechanic's now. What would you guys do?

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  #2  
Old 04-29-2016, 11:07 AM
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Location: Cicero, Hamilton County, Indiana about 30 miles north of downtown Indianapolis
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Shoot it and end its misery, now! Remember the junkyard will give you more if you can drive it there, and that is a lot better then having them come and pick it up. At today's price for junk, driving it there won't make you rich, but someone will make use of some parts and that is very beneficial.
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1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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  #3  
Old 04-29-2016, 11:33 AM
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Can't shoot it, said it's "literally bulletproof", ...
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  #4  
Old 04-29-2016, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Can't shoot it, said it's "literally bulletproof", ...
lol!
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1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold
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  #5  
Old 04-29-2016, 01:39 PM
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That happened to my brother's W123, we ended up swapping out the rear control arms ourselves with used ones (and new bushings)...he drover it another 3 years after that...then he got his W210 and we retired/parted it out. We still have the engine.
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'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
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  #6  
Old 04-29-2016, 02:05 PM
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I like the 123 body real well, so would look for another control arm that is clean to replace it. I say that without knowing how rusty the car is over all. I'm on the east side of the Cascades, so we don't see that much in the way of rust here.

Regards,

W.
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  #7  
Old 04-29-2016, 02:33 PM
Banned
 
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Location: Texafornia
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stick aluminum w126 rear control arms on, They rust too though, in the aircraft buiz its called intergranular corrosion.
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  #8  
Old 04-29-2016, 02:56 PM
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I don't think a W126 rear trailing arm is a one-on-one swap with a W123.

Some interesting reading material:

Trying to fit an aluminium W126 / 107 trailing arm to a W123 - a question of compatib

Upgrading w123 rear trailing arms to aluminum w126 ones possible???


I've parted with several cars that I loved dearly and had given names etc, and sometimes I still ache to get behind the wheel of my very first car...But alas, they are all long gone, and in hindsight: It's for the best.


At least the pictures and amazing memories still remain. Driving to Paris in a snow storm with my then-girlfriend-now-wife, and of course the time the wiring harness behind the dash caught on fire, and me and a buddy spend two long days soldering it all back together. Except for the rear window sprayer thingy, everything electric worked again!

The car is gone, but the pictures and memories remain.

I did part out all of my old cars that had rare parts on them, so a bunch of their parts most likely are still living and functioning today. That makes saying goodbye a little easier. Never did make much money off that, as that wasn't the point, at least not for me.

If it was me and I had a very rusty W123 and no means to get it welded or fixed: I'd part it too.


Of course, I've also spend more money on repairs on some cars then the whole thing was worth because I get too emotionally attached to cars (including the current W123), so I'm a hypocrite.
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Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
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The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)

Last edited by Ceristimo; 04-29-2016 at 03:17 PM.
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  #9  
Old 04-29-2016, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Ceristimo View Post
<>Of course, I've also spend more money on repairs on some cars then the whole thing was worth because I get too emotionally attached to cars (including the current W123), so I'm a hypocrite.
That's a pretty big club here on PP, ...
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  #10  
Old 04-29-2016, 03:50 PM
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Can you swap the drivetrain into a rust-free body? That's what I would try if it's still in good shape (although the tranny should probably be replaced with a rebuilt/good used unit if it's having issues). You can also strip spares off the car to keep around for the next one. Having the heart of the old one carrying on in the new body might give you some closure.

And, as always, my condolences . Sad to see another one retiring forever.
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1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

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  #11  
Old 04-29-2016, 03:54 PM
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If you get time to drive down to the no-rust zone (starts in eastern WA), you could drive back a car w/ a clean body, then remove all your good parts before taking to the junkyard. You probably have many less sun-damaged parts than a CA car would. Even pull the engine & tranny if good, if you don't mind towing it to JY. They will only pay you for the scrap steel value anyway ($100 tops).
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  #12  
Old 04-29-2016, 04:22 PM
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Everyone with a 30 yr old driver needs a parts car. Go buy another and keep yours for parts.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2016, 03:02 AM
zu! zu! is offline
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Lots to think about.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  #14  
Old 04-30-2016, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceristimo View Post
Of course, I've also spend more money on repairs on some cars then the whole thing was worth because I get too emotionally attached to cars (including the current W123), so I'm a hypocrite.
Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
That's a pretty big club here on PP, ...
Welcome to PP Anon, I'll start us off, My name is Tom, and I spend more money on parts than I paid for my entire car...
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1982 300D (w123, "Grey Car")
1982 300D (w123, "Blue Car")
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  #15  
Old 04-30-2016, 05:03 PM
1985 190d
 
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Location: canadian border vermont
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I sold one 190 and bought
another, and then bought the old one back two years later because it had better seats....
I spend enough to be driving a new honda, but why would i do that?

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