hey guys. been lurking around your site for a while now. I have an issue so I signed up and hopefully someone can give me some advice.
I have an 123 diesel I did the 4 speed swap. and unfortunately I didn't do
the swap my self. so I wasn't there to see what all went on. I had a redneck buddy of mine do it. hes pretty handy as he builds all of the guys custom mud trucks and such. anyway after some back and forth figuring out the shifter, bleeding the master and stuff we got it going and its pretty cool. but in the process the car has developed a HUGE oil leak. like blasting windshields behind me oil leak. oil is pooling in the bell housing but I'm not sure where its originating from. (its not the valve cover) 6 or 7 qts in 45 miles back from his place. any ideas where I should start? rear main? saw a vid on the oil cooler housing, maybe? please any advice would be great.

thanks guys

Rear main seal is highly unlikely given your flood control issues.

Likely to be a pressurized source.

Good guess at the oil filter housing - if you have a turbo engine, there a few connections there that can spray a lot if not reinstalled well.

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where do you see dripping when the engine is running and you look around under hood and car etc... ?

Oil can get into the bell housing from any leak at the rear of the head - there is an oil supply line to the turbo there.

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Trace the oil line going from the turbo back to the oil filter housing. The line itself may be damaged or a copper crush washer may have been accidentally omitted where it connects to the oil filter housing (in needs 2, one on each side of the banjo fitting).

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Not knowing what happened, anything that was touched could have been overtorqued and broken after driving around with vibration or undertorqued and be leaking as a result. I would pressure wash the entire area and check things one at a time.

The oil filter housing would be a big one. Some people overtorque the nuts and the studs break off which would cause the amount of oil you are mentioning. The oil cooler lines could leak that much, so I would make sure they are snug.

There is a turbo line that connects to the bottom of the oil cooler housing. I would make sure that is connected tightly.

Your oil pan could leak if not completely torqued or if there is a crack or some sort of breach.

There are a bunch of other things that can leak, but I have a hard time seeing what else could cause that level of volume in such a short period of time.

Once you have cleaned everything off and checked these connections, try turning the engine on and watching from underneath to see where the oil is dripping.

Dkr.

Also with this oil line, there should be a short metal bracket bolted to the
back side of the head on the pass side.
The bracket hangs down and the oil line is clamped to it.
This keeps the oil line from vibrating and cracking at the connection at the
Oil Filter housing.

Had this happen one time. Replaced the engine had everything connected and running.
HMMM wonder where this little bracket goes.

7K miles later I found out when I was loosing OP late one night.
The metal pipe cracked right at the Banjo Fitting.



Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Plastic oil pressure line also on the oil filter housing

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

A nice way to find fluid leaks is to add UV sensative dye to the fluid in question, then run the engine for a bit and look at it with a UV flashlight. Its a good way to determine what is a fresh leak vs years of grime. (Plus, look at your vacuum hoses and wood trim under UV - freaky). The dye is available online or in parts stores (mine had it next to the AC stuff) and is specific to the type of fluid you are using it with. This might not be a great idea in your case if you are losing so much oil, but its a nice trick to keep for a rainy...er...oily day.

thanks guys. ima get busy tomorrow and check all these spots.

thanks again for helping out a newby!!

oh ya it is a turbo 84 the oil seams to be pooling in the bell housing and it poors out when
I break and turn. couple giant streaks where I turn into my driveway

I correct myself.

It could be the rear main seal if the flywheel was installed with bolts that were too long.

If they chewed up the area behind them and the seal is not making any contact (or not there!) much oil could certainly exit that area at times but would not be constant.


This would be a pretty severe mistake to miss though.

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If the rear main seal, you can't just pull a new one around, from below, like in an old Chevy. It is the same graphite rope seal, but a pin at the top locks it in place. Look for RollGuy's post where he lowered the crankshaft slightly to work the old rope seal out.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

oh sht!! you have to drop the crank to replace the rear main!!

ive changed many, many rear mains in air cooled v dubs.

cant just drop the trans and pick it out?

I havnt had a few min to get under the car yet so I don't have an update but I'm going to force it in tomarro. trying to get a boat and the mud truck together for the weekend. got family coming to town.

thanks again