What is the procedure for removing the vac pump on my '83 300 CD?

I have obtained one, whats the procedure for testing it? With the check valve installed, I am pulling 25" + -, but, its just good to a "good check valve", right? Not really testing vacuum pump, right?

Whats in the way of removal? I ruined 2 bolts holding the fan/clutch to the water pump. Could only get 10mm oe wrench on them, 2 would NOT loosen, rounded off the corners to protect my knuckles. No room for any kind of box-end wrench. Used vice-grips for extra rounding of corners, but got them out.

I am rapidly approaching the point where I unload everything MB and buy a Hyundai or even a Chevrolet, , , ,

Even with the fan off, I am unable to loosen the bolt/nut that the alternator 'pivots' on, I actually rounded that bolt off, with a 17mm 6 point socket, I thought the socket cracked when it turned, just the nut rounding off, tho.

I'm getting REALLY frustrated here, friends & neighbors, , ,

-corne-

(radiator/fan shroud removed)

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"I applaud your elaborate system of denial"

Most people only get 22-24". So I would say that is good.

Actually everything inside of the Vacuum Pump needs to work together including the Check Valve. In fact if someone is getting vacuum but low vacuum it is often the
Check Valve itself that is the issue. The rest of the Vacuum Pump on your year and model seems to be more durable then the Check Valve.

When the Vacuum Pump breaks it is often a worn bushing in the Timer that allows too much end play and that can ruin even a new vacuum pump.

Are your stuck parts due to rust?

Other say not so but I think My Mercedes has been more work over all then other Cars I have owned.
However, any Car that has the parts rusted badly can be a pain.

Should find instructions: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel