So I heard that powered graphite into the locks is the preferred action to take so that they will last longer. I bought some and "squirted" it into my 1984 wagon's driver door lock which operated as designed prior- locking and unlocking just fine. Now it sucks and is very very difficult to lock/unlock.

Anyone had this issue? What will solve it?

Spray graphite is the problem. Graphite from a pencil rubbed on the edges of the key is the best. I would remove the door handle and clean out the spray graphite with brake kleen and then use the pencil on your key.

they will wear out,just like ignition lock.you can replace them.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt

I used the stuff from a tube which is powder; you squeeze the tube.

Of course- but since the drivers door worked perfectly prior to the squeeze tube graphite it's not that they wore out; the graphite application did something which made them not function.

Same issue with graphite from a tube. The graphite is probably mixed with some sort of other lubricant which is causing your problem. My recommendation about using Brake Kleen applies only to a door lock, not the ignition switch.

Graphite, if used, should be applied sparingly. More is better does not apply. A far better lubricant for locks is a teflon-based spray.

A lock cylinder is a dead end, anything that goes in stays in there. Oils tend to attract dirt and dust, so dry graphite is often recommended. But graphite is a solid, it takes up space, and can jam the lock just like dirt. When I disassemble a cylinder, I clean everything out, make any repairs, and test the action. If its smooth, I leave it completely dry. Otherwise, I apply a very light coat of sewing machine oil or watch oil. And never lube it again. The bearing surfaces are very large relative to load, and every part is corrosion resistant bronze, brass or stainless. Foreign material is what causes wear and jamming.

What I would suggest is to blast it out with a spray cleaner. Use one that has a plastic extension, move it around, and use more than you think you need. If that solves it, walk away.

Two Choices:

MB has a door lock cylinder (Leafs in MB's case) specific spray Lube.

Local locksmith recommends Straight Silicone Spray Only.
"Stick that little tube in the door lock."

The Wunnerful thing about spray Silicone IS, in the Dead of Winter,
with FROZEN locks... The Spray allows you to free them up with
gloves on!

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"Zome" say that Graphite, in any form, is an abrasive.

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

a pretty knowledgeable old-school locksmith told me not to use graphite (after I already had) on the door locks and such. He said, big locks in doors, where the graphite has room to fall out of the mechanism - graphite is ok. But in the enclosed tumblers and handles and ignition, it just stays in there and gets gummed up. He said to use wd-40 - where you want it to dry out so as not to attract dirt.

i was thinking maybe trying something higher quality like LPS?

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Andrew
Montclair, NJ
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1982 300D Turbo
120k
Petrol Blue Green

Your old school locksmith is partially correct. The use of large amounts of graphite will mess up the lock. Rubbing graphite on the key works best. WD40 or teflon spray should never be used in an ignition or door lock. The very best procedure is to ensure that the lock is very clean, then use graphite spairngly on the key only. On Mercedes ignition switches using regular keys, never have more than 2 keys on your key ring.

ok- so then brake clean is safe to shoot in the lock? then graphite on the key?

I haven't used anything in the locks since the graphite since I've had no issues.

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Andrew
Montclair, NJ
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1982 300D Turbo
120k
Petrol Blue Green

I didn't have canned air but I did have brake parts cleaner. Lots of that and it operates just fine now.

Amazing the differing opinions out there, some directly contradicting each other.
W123 tumblers does not have a dead end and is not a trap. I am looking at one now, with the key out I see light through it..... again no dead end. There are gaps front and back where the tumbler rotates, debris will fall out of it.

If the tumbler had an oil based lube sprayed in it, chances are it has a lot of build up consisting of dirt and brass filings binding together. I have sprayed such a tumbler with brake clean and it made it worse, basically jammed it. I took that tumbler apart and it was very dry inside (from the excellent degreasing action of the brake clean), but I found some brass filings were jammed in the fine coil springs. The brake clean knocked loose the brass filings from the oil which was binding the gunk together and caused it to jam.

So it depends on the condition of your tumbler and what you can spray in there. If you are going to use a spray, I would not recommend brake clean, it will probably make it worse. Use WD40 if you are trying to get a jammed tumbler going. Graphite works great as a lube if your tumbler is clean and has not been sprayed with an oil based lube.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Perhaps a coincidence, but my ignition tumbler that functioned pretty well failed RIGHT AFTER spraying some graphite lube into it, the very next key turn wouldn't go past 1 without the aid of vice grips.

I'll be keeping lubes out of that mechanism from here on out.

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