After lots of trial and error trying to get this car running good, I removed the Injection pump on my 76 300d. I think it may have a bad lift pump but I don't know. Either way I think I am going to buy a different injection pump and install it. I am tired of being covered in diesel and willing to spend the 300 dollars to see if this fixes it. I want to make sure I have installed it correctly!! Any help would be greatly appreciated

Things I have done:
Valve Job
compression check
diesel Purge
New Injectors
drip timing/tried loosening pump and running it. (wouldn't start)
Checked cam timing
New filters
New fuel line
running it with inline electric fuel pump
running it with fuel can under the hood

Disconnected every fuel line and put them in a fuel can to ensure no air leaks from filter housing or hand pump.

After doing all that I got pissed off and took the injection pump off.

I had the car running before but it always blew white smoke and would die after driving for a bit. Seemed like I always had better luck with the electric pump connected and at times it would only stay running if someone pumped the hand primer.

This car sat for around 10 years. But ran before that, my dad bought it in Texas and drove it here to Wisconsin.

I had similar issues with my SDL. Blew BIG white smoke (we're talking it looked like a wildfire was burning nearby), ran like hell, had the square-root of 0 power, missed out and would stall if revved and returned to idle. Like you, my car sat for 10 years and was never started the whole time it sat. I finally pulled my IP and checked it, only to find that one of the cam bearings in the IP had failed. How it ran, I don't know, but it did....sort of. In my case, a new (second hand) IP has fixed the issues and the car is now back on the road.

Make sure you have a good primer pump on your IP. The 603 engine in my SDL doesn't have one, so it was not a factor in the poor running of my car. It also goes without saying, but make sure you're not running on 10 year old diesel out of the tank!

Don't discount that some of the "white" smoke can actually be oil smoke. With as long as the car has sat, the rings are likely to leak quite a bit until you get some miles on the engine. Mine blew big smoke the first few times I romped on it, but by the time I got it to the inspection station, the smoke had subsided almost to the point of not existing. Since driving it for the last several days, the smoke has all but disappeared.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

Did you set the injection timing on the mark before you pulled the pump? That makes life a ton easier. Dieselmeken had me set my old pump on the mark then I pulled it. He had preset the new SuperPump to 23* (IIRC) so all I had to do was transfer over the drive coupling and bolt everything in place, then remove the timing stop and all was well. Fired right up, as soon as I got the air out of the system. I bled everything but I DID have to fire it on starting fluid the first time - not the best but it worked when nothing else did. It starts perfectly ever since.

I think yours will have an "M" pump which is the basis for the SuperPump. The adjustments are all external which is both good and bad. You can adjust the ALDA and make other changes easily but that also means that you can screw it up easily, too! Once you have a good pump in place, be cautious with your adjustments.

Dan

The 60x series engines are a different critter to the 61x engines regarding the timing setup. I didn't waste my time setting the timing on the old pump because I knew it was bad. I did pre-time the engine, and once it was installed and bled, fired right up. Ever since the initial priming all you have to do is sneeze at the ignition switch and the engine is running. Before you had to crank, hope, pray, and have it wheeze into life belching out massive clouds of cancer. Such an improvement!

One little tip I can offer to anyone doing an IP swap: If you use the eBay timing lock tool, use a hacksaw and make the notch slightly wider. On mine, it was just a hair too skinny to keep the pointer firmly locked and I lost timing more than once during installation. Swear words were uttered (shouted), so learn from my errors!

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

I did not mark the pump timing at all. I just pulled the pump out. But I am not sure that I ever had the pump set perfectly.
To install the pump all I have to do is bolt it in and then remove the delivery valve and set the engine to 24 degrees BTDC and move the pump until it drips 1 drip per second correct? and install a new copper washer.
How does the Timing lock tool work? Sounds like it may be more accurate.

Thanks for all of the help. Glad to hear somebody else had the same issue I am having. I will be sure to remember how hard starting they can be with a fresh pump. I have put fresh fuel in and a clean tank.

As far as MW Fuel Injection Pumps go the problem with using the timing locking pin on your pump is that I have never read of anyone on the forum using it or seen one for sale because the one you need is in the pic with the red X on it.

The one in the first pic is for the after 1982 and or if you have the 17mm plug on the side of the Governor to fit it. That one is available from more then a few sources.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Tram and I have had real good results using SliKroil to un-seize rings. Put a few ounces in, set for a day, turn the engine over, repeat for a week. For mine, after part way, found Kleen so used a mix. No more puff of oil on start up and the piston slap is mostly gone, plus seems like an odd banging noise is getting better since now mostly gone and much quieter (got Kleen in the oil).

Hope this helps.

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Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.

Thanks Adriel. I will try Slikroil if it still runs rough after i install the pump.

I found the locking pin for 67-82 on Ebay. Its 50 bucks, think its worth it?

Using the pin all you do is set the crank to 24 and line up the two marks on the ip then install the pin right? Then it should be perfectly timed?

Glad to help.

If knew an engine sat for more than a short period, would do the treatment first thing. It be only for the burning oil.

Did forget to tell to change the oil afterwards. Darn memory isn't what it was before the accident.

One way to test the rings is do the compression test, add engine oil to the cylinder, then do again. If improves, it is the rings. If not, valve seals.

__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.

When you use the Locking Timing Pin on the later models you do not time at 24 degrees BTDC.
It is timed at 15 degrees after top dead center. I have never read instructions for the timing tool for the older models.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Just to follow up, I did get a new injection pump and finally got the car to stay running! Thank you guys so much for your help. It runs pretty good, but not long after I decided to tear some things apart. The engine has a bad clank/clatter and after reading: Clank Clank when cold....new engine time??

i removed the oil pan and thrust bushing. The thrust bushing looks really worn and was very loose. Everything looked good in the pan. I decided then that i was going to rebuild the vacuum pump because oil was starting to leak and I wanted to check the play on the intermediate shaft. Next I was able to strip out the bottom bolt on vacuum pump. (super fun) I got it out with a screw extractor. After that I was pretty excited and pulled the whole pump apart. Now I don't know how it goes back together. Does anybody have a diagram of these older pumps? The hoses are 90 degrees apart.

The thrust bearing should not be worn looking. Are you sure wear is what you are seeing. Take some pics. Show it to a machinist. I would focus there. Do Your vac pump and intermediate shaft next. I think Injection pump has to come off to check intermediate shaft play. You Need to use the FSM.

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Chris
84 280sl
82 300d euro

The thrust bushing is definitely worn. I don't have an FSM, I know I should and I realize I have probably taken more apart at one time than I should have. according to Mercedes source you can check shaft play by putting a vice grip on the rollercoaster cam plate nut and check shaft play. I did and it has very very little. https://**************.com/problems/vacuum/what-causing-diesel-om616-and-om617-vacuum-pump-failures

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The thrust bushing is definitely worn out.
You need a new one.
.

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I don't see how someone could get an accurate reading while the Timing Chain is still under tension from the timing chain tensioner spring.

Also to know for sure I would prefer a dial indicator reading.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel