2006 E320 CDI weeping/leaking fuel line(s) R&R? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jay_bob · #1 11-29-2016, 08:25 PM

For the e-torx socket get this set
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBVO
Not the one from Hazard Frought. The HF set does not fit the splines correctly since it is a Chinese copy and can strip out the bolt. The Lisle set is US made and they paid the $$ to license the Torx design properly.

The Lisle sockets fit very snugly on the bolt. In fact you have to be careful because an E12 socket will "almost" sit down on an E10 bolt and if you are not careful that will strip it out. Found that out the hard way on my OM642 oil cooler job. Luckily it did not destroy the bolt and it was a one use only bolt that was getting replaced anyway.

jay_bob · #2 12-01-2016, 07:55 AM

This is the proper tool for these clamps...sets and removes them without damage.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z3PQHWM

Skid Row Joe · #3 12-01-2016, 02:38 PM

I've been trying unsuccessfully to upload a photo of the black fuel line, showing the pinpoint location of the hairline oozing of the fuel leak.

It's back of the clamp about two inches.
There's enough slack in the fuel line to cut it, and re-clamp. I'm going to do that for now. -If it works, that is.

Comments and questions;

1) My CDI only has 69K miles on it, so I'm certain the black hose fuel lines are original. I don't see 8' of fuel line, as one of you guys stated. Are there several feet out of view? Is fuel line a lot cheaper online than at the MB dealer?

2) how the heck would I get access to removing that front plate beyond the serpentine belt and radiator? Talk about a tight area!

spark3542 · #4 12-03-2016, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

I've been trying unsuccessfully to upload a photo of the black fuel line, showing the pinpoint location of the hairline oozing of the fuel leak.

It's back of the clamp about two inches.
There's enough slack in the fuel line to cut it, and re-clamp. I'm going to do that for now. -If it works, that is.

Comments and questions;

1) My CDI only has 69K miles on it, so I'm certain the black hose fuel lines are original. I don't see 8' of fuel line, as one of you guys stated. Are there several feet out of view? Is fuel line a lot cheaper online than at the MB dealer?

2) how the heck would I get access to removing that front plate beyond the serpentine belt and radiator? Talk about a tight area!

You have 4 fuel hoses on top of the motor. I ballparked that they are each shorter than 2', so 8' of hose will easily cover everything. 1 hose from hard pipe to outer fuel filter fitting...65psi. 1 hose from inner fuel filter to inlet on HP pump...65psi. 1 hose as return line from HP pump to "T" at center of manifold...7psi, and 1 hose as return line from rear of engine (collecting return from rear of fuel rail and all the injectors) that goes to other side of "T" at center of manifold...7psi.

That front plate is a little tricky. 3/8" ratchet, 1" extension, torx socket. That puts the ratchet handle between belt and fan shroud, giving "fingertip" access to ratchet handle.

chronometers · #5 12-03-2016, 11:26 AM

One of the fuel lines coming off the filter was the one that split on me while I was in a remote area in CO in 2015. Sounds like having some extra hose and/or razor blade may be a good thing to carry in the trunk for W211 e320 CDI owners.

Skid Row Joe · #6 12-03-2016, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chronometers

One of the fuel lines coming off the filter was the one that split on me while I was in a remote area in CO in 2015. Sounds like having some extra hose and/or razor blade may be a good thing to carry in the trunk for W211 e320 CDI owners.

Yes. The razor blade or pocket knife is key to make necessary cuts.

That was the one I saw with a hairline crack weeping fuel. It makes a turn where mine was oozing 2" back of the clamp.
The other hose is oozing @ the clamp. I'll report after replacing that 12" line of black hose.

Thanks for all yall ongoing support and help!

alipak · #7 12-02-2016, 01:22 AM

SkidRow I would love to see the pictures. As you may have figured I am not much of mechanic but gain lots of knowledge from folks like you on the forum.

Skid Row Joe · #8 12-02-2016, 01:55 AM

OK.....I did the slice and re-clamping at the fuel filter on the obvious leaking black fuel line hose.

Wiped the whole thing down drying off the diesel leakage. Started it up, and there's weeping from the other black fuel line hose at the fuel filter.

So, I've got to make a black fuel hose run to an auto parts store called Import Auto Parts about 6 miles from me.
My nearest MB Dealer is 18 miles away.

About the plate at the front of the engine that protects the fuel lines from the serpentine belt - held on by 3 screws, that the two fuel lines go to the front of the engine block from the fuel filter? I can get that if doing a double fuel line replacement. I studied it some, and I could do it.

Don't know why pics are failing the upload to the forum. Just tried again just now. Oh well.

Skid Row Joe · #9 12-02-2016, 04:52 AM

No injector fuel leakage whatsoever on this 2006 I6 CDI.
Other than dusty, it's clean as a whistle.

tq190 · #10 12-07-2016, 10:27 PM

Are you referring to the water sensor on the fuel filter? If so it sounds like one (or more) of the rubber o-rings on the stem no longer seals. How long (many miles) ago did you replace the fuel filter?

Skid Row Joe · #11 12-07-2016, 11:06 PM

Two years / 3K miles ago. A shop did the new filter. This is my 1st fuel filter experience with the car since buying 3.5 years ago. I don't drive the car much. Car started leaking wet diesel fuel on garage floor so I bought the torx wrench sockets/drives to get the engine cover off. Not familiar with the top assy. of the CDI filter how to at all. There's no YouTube on fuel filter R&R on this car.

spark3542 · #12 12-08-2016, 01:15 PM

On top of the fuel filter is the "water in fuel" sensor. There are two torx bolts that connect the filter tabs to "ears" on this black plastic sensor assembly. The torx bolts easily strip out the black plastic that they're threaded into.

If you remove the torx bolts and disconnect the sensor wire, the black plastic assembly rotates away from the filter tabs and you can pull the whole black plastic assembly straight up and out of the filter. This assembly has a couple orings and replacements come with the new filter usually. Sometimes the new filter even includes the small thumbscrew plastic valve on top.

That thumbscrew is to drain water from the bottom of the filter to solve your water-in-fuel when that comes on the dash. Be careful to catch that stream with a hose, it shoots out of there with force.

Skid Row Joe · #13 12-08-2016, 02:31 PM

I'm not able to put that information into how the silver top comes off the top of the filter, or how to get to the filter. Nothing is moving to get the filter out, to then take a look at that top cap and see why it's fizzing fuel out the top. What's leaking. Nothing is moving and I don't want to break anything by forcing it. If I knew what to do to disassemble it.

Alec300SD · #14 12-08-2016, 06:50 PM

It looks like the silver part with the fuel fittings is actually part of the fuel filter.
You need to loosen the clamp on the bracket to remove the filter.

Here are two YouTube videos showing how to change the filter.
The first one is more of a slide show.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmiOuyy9elY

Different vehicle, but same filter setup (I believe):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFoEbuOJ_r8

jay_bob · #15 12-08-2016, 08:15 PM

That is just like the fuel filter on the OM642.

Have not ever seen the arrangement on the OM648, but I can see it's exactly the same as the OM642 after watching the video linked above.

Here's how to replace the filter:

Use your Click-R pliers to remove the clamps. The little hump in the clamp catches a tab on the perimeter of the clamp band. In order to release the hump from the tab you have to make the clamp a slightly smaller diameter so the tab can slip out from under the hump. The tab sits at an angle so it is trapped by the underside of the hump. Very difficult to describe but truly an a-ha moment when you finally figure out how to get the thing loose. Hint: One side of the plier jaws is for opening the clamp and the other is for closing the clamp.

Then just slip the hoses off the filter pipe tubes. Be prepared for a few drips but no great gush of fuel is going to come forth.

Unplug the connector from the water sensor. I think these are the "gray tab" style connector that is prevalent on these engines. These are unplugged by taking a small screwdriver and carefully sliding the gray tab backwards (move it closer to the end where the wires come out) about a 1/4 inch (it will make a little click). Then put your thumb on the tab, your fingers on the opposite side, and pinch the connector. You are trying to push the tab inwards towards the central axis of the connector. Simultaneously apply pulling force to the body of the connector (not on the wires!) and slide the connector off the sensor.

Now slacken the E10 bolts holding the band clamp around the body of the filter. You should be able to lift the filter straight up to remove it from the engine.

Take your Torx screwdriver (I want to say it's a T15) and remove the two Torx screws on the little metal ears on either side of the water sensor assembly. Once the screws are out you want to rotate the water sensor so that the black plastic pieces under the ears revolve and clear the metal ears. Once the black part is clear of the metal ears, pull up to remove the water sensor assembly. Be gentle with this, you are going to transfer the entire stem assembly except for the little black cap on top to your new filter. Sometimes they are in there quite tightly due to the o-rings. Very gentle upward persuasion with a flat blade screwdriver is acceptable here to get the o-rings moving.

Remove the various o-rings on the stem and replace them with the new o-rings provided with the filter kit.

Unscrew the black plastic vent cap from the stem and install the new cap provided with the filter kit.

Stick the stem down in your new filter until it bottoms out. Rotate the stem assembly until the black parts slip under the metal ears. Sometimes these metal ears get bent in shipment and you have to tweak them slightly with needle nose pliers to allow the black plastic arms from the stem assembly to go underneath. Put the two Torx screws back in, gently, you don't need gorilla torque, or you will strip out the plastic.

Put the filter back in its location on the engine. Slip new clamps on the fuel hose ends. Technically these are single use clamps, I always replace them. Slide the fuel hoses onto the pipe stems on the filter. Use the other side of the plier jaws to secure the clamp. Remember you want to slide the hump over the tab to lock it in place. Once you figure it out, you will never want to mess around with a worm gear clamp again.

Plug the water sensor back in. Don't forget to click the gray tab back in place. Secure the filter in place by tightening the bolts.

This filter does not require pre-filling like the older OM61x/OM60x filters. Simply turn the key to the running position, and wait about 20 seconds. You should hear the electrical low pressure pump whining. Give the engine a crank and it should start up. It will be a slightly longer crank than usual the first time, but after that you should be fine.