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  #16  
Old 12-11-2016, 04:33 PM
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Well I got out and tried cracking open all 5 lines to the injectors. After several attempts at cranking the engine, only the 5th injector connection (closest to the firewall) ever leaked any diesel. The other 4 injector connections did not give up any fuel. Also, I tried to pump up the hand pump a little more just to see what it would do, and it initially had no resistance (felt like it was only moving air). After about 10-15 pumps it eventually started to feel like it was moving fluid, but it was leaking badly onto the ground. Definitely needs replaced. Other thoughts?


Last edited by GoldenEagle; 12-11-2016 at 08:57 PM.
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  #17  
Old 12-11-2016, 05:20 PM
dkr dkr is offline
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If you have the original mushroom white finger pump where you need to turn it counter-clockwise to start pumping, replace it. It is old and will leak.

The new ones don't need to be turned before priming and are inexpensive.

Dkr.
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  #18  
Old 12-11-2016, 05:23 PM
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A good primer pump will help. If you are getting fuel at the fifth line, I would tighten it and keep cranking while watching the other four until you get fuel.


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  #19  
Old 12-11-2016, 05:39 PM
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The priming pump with the white knob that you have to unscrew ccw first to pump spills fuel is normal (stupid design, EPA won't approve I'm sure) but does not mean it is bad. If you feel resistance as you pump, it is still working. After pumping you must turn the knob CW to tighten the seal or it will suck air. Keep using it in the meantime but replace it as soon as possible to avoid the mess and not waste fuel.

Try cracking just one injector nut 1/4 turn instead of all five and make sure you glow before cranking. Check that the glow plugs are getting power by connecting a test light to it. Glow then crank no more than 10 seconds at a time and let the starter cool off for 5 minutes before trying again. Once it starts, feather the throttle to keep it running while tightening the injector nut and it will self bleed after a few minutes idling provided you have no leaks. You said you changed the fuel filters. Make sure you have not created a leak that was not there before. Do you have the filter housing that has a copper or aluminum washer under the big bolt? Those are harder to get it to seal than the new type housing.
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  #20  
Old 12-11-2016, 06:01 PM
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You can put a condom over the old primer pump to stop it from sucking air in the meantime.
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  #21  
Old 12-11-2016, 07:20 PM
888 888 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disqo View Post
A good primer pump will help. If you are getting fuel at the fifth line, I would tighten it and keep cranking while watching the other four until you get fuel.


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I would take this approach too, it is sputtering at all like you have combustion at that cylinder?

I have the white handled Bosch pump and it leaked as you mention at the base but it worked just fine once I felt it start build suction. Did you loosen the bolt on top of the main filter housing?
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  #22  
Old 12-11-2016, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 888 View Post
I would take this approach too, it is sputtering at all like you have combustion at that cylinder?

I have the white handled Bosch pump and it leaked as you mention at the base but it worked just fine once I felt it start build suction. Did you loosen the bolt on top of the main filter housing?
I have the mushroom pump that needs loosening ccw before pumping. I definitely tightened it back down cw before attempting to start.

No I did not loosen the bolt on the main filter housing before I started pumping.

I'll try again tomorrow by tightening down the 5th injector connection and checking if the 4th starts leaking.
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  #23  
Old 12-11-2016, 09:12 PM
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And yes, it is sputtering ever so slightly while cranking like it really wants to start but just doesn't have enough to get over the hurdle.
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  #24  
Old 12-11-2016, 10:07 PM
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Spray wd40 into the intake and run it til its bled.
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  #25  
Old 12-11-2016, 11:44 PM
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Spray the wd40 into the intake through the turbo?
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  #26  
Old 12-11-2016, 11:50 PM
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Yes.
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1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #27  
Old 12-11-2016, 11:53 PM
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Thanks. I'll give it a try.
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  #28  
Old 12-11-2016, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenEagle View Post
And yes, it is sputtering ever so slightly while cranking like it really wants to start but just doesn't have enough to get over the hurdle.
How many injector nuts were cracked open when you were cranking? Can't have more than one cracked, its function is to bleed the air only and will not inject fuel, the 4 closed ones are needed to inject fuel. I have always done it with one injector cracked and it usually take less than 5 seconds of cranking before it sputters to life (never needed to spray WD-40 into the intake). If your starter is not spinning above 150 RPM it will not start.
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  #29  
Old 12-12-2016, 12:24 AM
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As a counterpoint, I loosen all lines and unplug the glow relay. Then I crank in 10 second bursts tightening the lines that spew fuel. I don't recall having to crank a fourth time before all lines are wet. Connect relay and go. I've never bothered with the priming pump.

Will it help to pinch the cigar line while priming?

Sixto
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  #30  
Old 12-12-2016, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
......

Will it help to pinch the cigar line while priming?

Sixto
83 300SD
Why would you want to do that? It'd effectively cut off the path where the air you are trying to bleed has to go (to the tank).

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