I need to replace the Head Gasket in my '85 300TD... while I am @ it I think I will change the Timing Chain and Rails. While I haven't done a compression test in a while... and, I will do one before I start the project (a few years ago the worst cylinder was #1 @ 310).

Any thoughts on what *you* would do while @ this? Valve springs etc.?

Thanks

dennis

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'84 300D (211k) *New*... (Wife's)
'85 300TD (174K) 10th Year... (Mine)
'96 F-350 7.3L Dually (149K) Since New
'85 300D (156K) ~~~Wrecked~~~ Damn it! (parts)
'84 300D (176k) ~~~Wrecked~~~ Damn it! (parts)

Maybe I'll just do a total restore... here is the victim ...bought it in 2007.

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__________________
'84 300D (211k) *New*... (Wife's)
'85 300TD (174K) 10th Year... (Mine)
'96 F-350 7.3L Dually (149K) Since New
'85 300D (156K) ~~~Wrecked~~~ Damn it! (parts)
'84 300D (176k) ~~~Wrecked~~~ Damn it! (parts)

When I did my head, I found several damaged valve seats. At the very least, pull the valves for inspection.

Any time I have a head(s) off of anything I take them to the machine shop and get them freshened up. If they need guides, maybe a funky valve replaced, etc. it'll be done and well worth the $$. At the very least, they'll be all shiny clean!

Dan

OK... Thanks!!!!

New Valve Stem Seal(s)... ordered
New Valve Stem Guide(s)... ordered
New Head Gasket Kit... ordered
New Valve Cover Gasket... ordered

Just spent an hour or so at a machine shop... and, they seem to know their shi&*%.. So, I'm pulling the head off an '85D that my wife provided me with (see below) as well as the head off the the '85TD and will select the best one (maybe assault one for parts).

Decided to hold off on the Timing Chain and ordered a 3 degree Woodruff key (Guessed @ degree) instead as well as a Tensioner gasket.

Any other inspiration is appreciated!

thanks

dennis

__________________
'84 300D (211k) *New*... (Wife's)
'85 300TD (174K) 10th Year... (Mine)
'96 F-350 7.3L Dually (149K) Since New
'85 300D (156K) ~~~Wrecked~~~ Damn it! (parts)
'84 300D (176k) ~~~Wrecked~~~ Damn it! (parts)

Dear sir. Don't bother with the 300D head as it will not work on a 300TD.

At least if you want the SLS to work.

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1981 300TD 310k miles
1970 280sel 172k miles
1966 230 Fintail 162k miles

"Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?"

I don't think having the head off would make replacing the timing chain any easier. You must feed in a new "broken" chain, using the camshaft sprocket to keep the teeth aligned, then crimp a master link to close the chain. If you were pulling the crankshaft, then you could use a new unbroken chain, w/ no need for a master link. Anyway, your idea of an offset Woodruff key is fine and I used one on my 1984 engine. Unlike old US pushrod engines, the timing chain has slop from the factory, which the guide tensioner takes up. Until you run out of tensioner travel or max out on offset keys available, seems no reason not to use one.

310 psig is getting near the lower end. My 1985 needed a block heater to start on 32 F mornings when I measured 250 psig, and had much blow-by. It failed a few years later. Before the shop touches your head, test the valves for leakage, seeing if they will hold gasoline (like a cup). If it runs thru, you know the valves are likely the source of low compression, so can move forward confidently. Also have the shop Magnaflux to look for cracks around the exhaust valves.

Check the condition of the cylinder walls. A "ring job" is much harder. You must remove the engine and crank, replace the cast-iron cylinder liners then machine and hone to match your pistons. Few here have done so. In my failed engine, several cylinder walls had scores and several pistons had chunks missing around the ring grooves, going up to the top, so one could see that with the head off.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans