Oh well. Guess it's ok, it will drop low very briefly when the solenoid clicks.

It's on the back of the injection pump - which is open to the crankcase.

__________________
1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

To quote Maui ... you're welcome!

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

As far I know Diesel engines does not use electricity to run. It technically is needed to start the engine only. After that the engine run without the electricity. It is not like gasoline cars who's need electricity to keep spark plugs firing. This is why after the engine running you can even remove the battery from the car and it will keep running. I don't believe that your issue is from battery or alternator.

^ Late to the party. Sorry, all the chips are gone. You'll have to eat dip with your fingers.

-Rog

That may not be true for some diesels. I have a '98 e 300 diesel. I think it has an electric fuel pump and a shut off valve that is controlled by electricity. I've never looked at the fuel pump on my car, but I think there is an electrical relay that controls it. Also, my recollection is that there was an electrical connection to my shut off valve when I changed it. Presumably, these parts have a continuing need for electricity while the motor is running.

Well, you may have some reason because when I wrote that I was thinking on my old 1982 300 SD where I had the experience of doing what I wrote above. Some time in the past I really did that experiment of disconnecting the battery and the engine continued running without battery.

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Nyck - TX - USA

I see it now. Everybody look at photo 2 of post #1. With no factory air cleaner, somebody hooked the vent tube from the valve cover to the oil drain tube for the air cleaner.

As NZScott says, without a vent, crankcase pressure built-up (from piston ring blow-by). That would eventually have blown seals, perhaps pushed out the front crankshaft seal, but fortunately the pressure buildup pushed the stop valve out on the injection pump, stopping the engine. Almost like a safety feature designed-in.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Not a really good practice. The newer the car the better the odds increase of potential damage. Even just boosting can result in real issues to either car.


I do not mean by hooking up the boost backwards either although that also has been done.

Just FYI, my '82 300D did have an electrically actuated valve connected in line with the vacuum shut off valve. Any time the battery was sick or disconnected, the car would stop. Seems to have been an added safety gizmo. It was not connected to the alternator signal, rather was sensitive to undervoltage and absence of the battery.

Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using Tapatalk

Must have been an aftermarket addition probably installed because of inability to fix vacuum leaks which were causing a no-shutoff condition.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13