I goofed. I left the parts I was cleaning in the parts washer with some ZEP commercial degreaser diluted with tap water and this happened:


Now I have extras of all of these pieces except the alternator brackets. One of those is steel and wasn't affected as much but the other is aluminum. I'll certainly use the extra upper timing cover I have instead of reusing this particular one. These are off an early M103.

So does anyone know what exactly this is and how best to clean it? I'm assuming the degreaser was too harsh on the aluminum, I'll use something else in the future.

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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.

Looks like you're in a pickle. ducks

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Maybe just paint it with wheel paint.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

t-walgamuth best way .Good primer and spray with a chrome paint .Or go full hog and have them polished spray them with a clear varnish

Try glass bead, walnut shell or soda blasting.

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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Hydrochloric acid should remove the black,leave on no more than 1 minute. I go to dollar store and buy cheap acid toilet bowl cleaner,with acid.Some are just bleach.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt

Or if you are going to paint after, something more agressive such as aluminum oxide. Use a lower pressure than when blasting steel. Before I had a cabinet sandblaster I would take my parts to a local machine shop who would blast them for a reasonable price.

I paint afterwards with a non-smudge paint such as Eastwood Aluma Blast or Seymour Alumi Blast (Dynamic in Canada). I've had good luck with both.

Harley transmission cases were aluminum.... and we used Semi Chrome polish on them..
probably too much effort....or maybe you should do it as penance .. LOL

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I really think a trip thru the bead blaster is your best bet. Some shops that do that will have options for the blast media and if they do I'd pick walnut shells but any of them will work though some (like sand) will leave a rough surface. You can have them powdercoated if you want but just have them do the outside - it might flake off on the inside and the flakes can get in the engine oil. Our powder coat shop does blasting anyhow so they'll kill both birds with one stone. If you look at my build thread (this will be near the beginning of the thread) you can see the upper oil pan and the cam cover all coated and happy - they've held up perfectly.

Dan

I've had good luck cleaning up heavily oxidized aluminum using a weak solution of citric acid in warm water. It isn't going to look new, but it'll get all that black stuff off with minimum effort. If you go this route, be sure to rinse it with a good bath in clean or soapy water.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

isn't already clean? Heck its acid etched. NO better prep than that is there? Prime and paint seems adequate to me. Keep your finger prints off it until the paint dries though.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

This spray from Eastwood may do the trick. In the Customer Reviews, there is mention of someone making a similar mistake and this spray saved him from a possible irreversible problem. It's worth a shot.

Eastwood Aluminum Prep and Cleaner Quart Trigger Bottle

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Just media blast it and spray on a clear poly Quick and easy.

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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif
15 VW Passat TDI
00 E420
98 E300 DT
97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME!
97 S500
97 E300D
86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D
86 300SDL
(o\|/o)