If this was measured on a tester, it's the tester that supplies D+ current. No D+ means no charge, end of story. If the dash light is out, then either the bulb is blown or the wiring is bad, either way, no D+. I'm still wondering if the measurement was done correctly.

The EDS problem is either a bad OVP or bad crank sensor. To diagnose EDS, you need to read the blink codes. I use one of these gadgets:

Mercedes Diagnostic Code Reader Tool W124 Obd1 300e 320e 400e 190e and others

There won't be blink codes at all if it's a bad OVP.