With all the new types of diesel oil reformulations happening, what is everyone using now these days? I have been using Chevron Delo 15w40 for a long time, but now, the new formulation has a reduction in zinc and phosphate. In my 1983 300D, I have a flat tappet camshaft, and the I am not sure if the reduction in these 2 compounds will wear out the camshaft faster??? This wouldn't be an issue if I had a roller camshaft like the newer vehicles.
Also, would it be better to now change the oil at 3000k intervals instead of the usual 5000k intervals due to the new oil reformulations???

Thanks!

Why not stick to what has been working?

some say the Delo LE (low emission) isn't as good as regular Delo; and they seem to only sell the LE version in most places...

I use the Napa Fleet 15-40 diesel oil. When it goes on sale I buy several.

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1985 300TD 1981 Scirocco 1.6D conv 1986 Golf 1.6D 2003 Golf TDI

I was using using delo

switched to rotella t diesel

leaks less now. actually not noticeable anymore. it was several drops per day before the switch.

I do 3000k changes either way. wasteful? perhaps...

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1983 300CD Turbodiesel

If someone starts telling you something about oil formulations, ask to see their chemical engineering degree and a resume showing extensive experience in a tribology lab. My feeling is that every minute spent reading oil threads is just a minute of your life wasted. Drat, another one gone.

Saved for posterity. Hands down the best reply I've seen yet to one of these damned oil threads...

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

I just read the back of oil jugs at the store until I found one that says " approved and meets MB standards."


The only one I found like that was the Mobil 1 synthetic and where I live, 0W40 in bulk is cheaper than most other synthetics.


Sometimes 4.00+ change /quart


So I usually buy several gallons at a time.

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Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

So I need to correct this thread thanks to Bimmer-Bob.

Agree about oil threads. However I just read something here a week ago or so that "explained" what the weights mean. Is this correct:

Say for 10W40

The 10 is the pouring viscosity, I think cold.
40 is the viscosity when heated to 100C or boiling temp of water. Viscosity is basically how thick the oil is and how it pours - like molasses compared to heated maple syrup. 10 compared to 40.


Does this edit sound right? I have always wondered. I thought it was a mixture of two different weights of oils but that must be wrong.

It's a way to describe the properties of multigrade oil, specifically the relationship between the oil's viscosity and temperature. 10W40 means that the oil's cold viscosity (W is for "winter" not "weight") is 10, while the viscosity at operating temperature (technically 100° C) is 40. A lower number is thinner, while a higher number is thicker. At operating temp, though, you don't want the oil to be too thin or it won't lubricate engine components adequately.

In colder climates or seasons, a lower winter rating is preferable, as the oil will flow better at start up and before the engine warms up - for MB diesels I think they usually recommend 5W40 or 10W40 if the ambient temperature falls below a certain range, while 15W40 is recommended for summer use, or for climates with mild enough temperatures year-round that cold starting isn't degraded.

Someone will be around shortly to correct me if I'm wrong, I'm sure. But I'm pretty sure that my understanding is basically correct...

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Bob - thanks; I had it all wrong. Made some edits to correct original post.

To make it even more complicated, some multi-viscosity oils are made up of a lightweight oil "stock" and are padded with additives to make them behave as a thicker oil when heated.

I made the mistake of putting Rotella T6 5w-40 in my SDL at the last oil change. My front turbo seal weeps (on the list for a rebuild) and with this oil in my engine it has a noticeable haze out the tailpipe and the oil consumption is up around 1qt/1K miles. With the Delvac 1300 15W-40 it had in it before, it didn't do this - oil consumption with that oil was ~1/2 qt in 1500 miles. Just food for thought if you have a tired old engine that isn't 100% in the oil-control department.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

I like this site for oil info:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

If you have a couple of minutes, here's a good video on the oil ratings.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYkg0oDUXs8&t=253s
I use synthetic because it runs quieter. Makes me feel good.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

Pretty sure they ran rotella 15w40 from the factory. That's what I'd put back in. My om606s ran 0w40 fully synthetic mobil 1 euro blend from the factory, that's what goes in.

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

Blackstone looked at a sample Rotella (edit: T6) synthetic from my 00 Cummins at 11,000 mi and told me to take the next sample at 15,000. Both 617s start well in the winter on synthetic and I like the less frequent oil changes. I also like to be able to run the same thing in all my vehicles.

Shouldn't a bought the 12 VW TDI. FSM says to use ridiculously expensive special oil. I get to keep it till December then VW will give more than I paid for it. Too bad. I like the car.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.