1 shutoff valve 2.5mm x 12mm ID
9 fuel line 2.5mm x 8mm ID (1 located at fuel filter housing)
3 fuel filter housing 2.5mm x 10mm ID
1 pre-filter 3mm x 18mm ID

here you go for the O rings.

the numbers preceeding the text are the quantity.

__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

Have emailed list through to Mercedes, the above measurements will help for what comes up short so many thanks...

According to Mercedes when you order the pipe the 'O' rings come with it. My guess is that maybe at one time you could order the rings separately, and that now you cannot giving the impression that the rings are no longer available???

Have ordered a set of pipes with rings in any case...

I bought an o-ring set from here last month. A complete set in all the correct sizes, makes the job easy. And all made of long-lasting Viton instead of the buna rubber that MB uses.

Viton for Mercedes Engines at FRYERPOWER HOME

__________________
1998 E300 turbodiesel

America's Rights and Freedoms Are Not The Enemy!

Got the inlet manifold off. The pipes are ancient, they have metal retaining clips rather than the white plastic ones. Going to replace them later this week. I take Zulfiqar's point about doing it on a warm engine, and firing it each time a pipe is replaced. So I'd need to run the engine with the inlet manifold off. Does anybody have an opinion on this? It is not a windy or dusty environment. Would only be idling the engine, until the last pipe is replaced, was then going to rev it a bit to see if it still runs rough off idle or would running without the manifold cause it to run rough anyway??

It should run fine at idle without the intake manifold in place. Unless you're working in a dust storm or someone is mowing the grass nearby, you should be ok for the amount of time you're going to be running the engine.

Unless you have a really strong battery, it might be a better idea to replace everything at once, fill the fuel filter with diesel, then crank with your foot hard to the floor until it starts. If the fuel system gets aired up, it's going to require priming each time it gets aired up. If you do it once instead of multiple times, it's easier on your starter, battery, and alternator.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

Warmed the car up without the inlet manifold in place, whilst running it I noticed that two of the six lines that run from the IP to the individual cylinders appear to be dripping diesel at the base where the line screws into the IP body. Not sure what's under there, an olive arrangement maybe, is it possible to tweak them or is there some form of 'O' ring that may have failed. Is it possible that air is being drawn in here causing rough running off idle??

Do search on delivery valve seal job.

__________________
Jim

Got the car running smoothly with inlet manifold off. Replaced the manifold and running rough again. Removed the cross over pipe, runs smooth. That leaves 2 components that could be at fault, the flap in the crossover pipe and / or the EGR. The other flap in the main part of the inlet manifold is working, you can see it move when you rev it. The flap in the crossover does not move though when revved to about 3k and I think the EGR takes it's vacuum from there too? But all the tubes meet in a box that attaches to the bottom of the inlet manifold and that has 2 electrical connectors coming out of it, wondering if there is an electrical problem but I can't see what part these electrics play in what looks to be a vacuum driven system?? I think I may have knocked something but just trying to identify the likely culprit......

The none-working flap in the cross-over pipe is a problem, but I doubt that is the source of the rough running, unless when the bottom flap moves, the position of the two is such that they cut off the air flow?. Those two flaps work to change the effective length of the intake manifold into three different lengths. Each length has a different standing pressure wave at a different engine speed. When that pressure wave front is happening at the intake valves, it acts like a poor man's turbo and forces more air into the cylinder.

The leaking fuel on the top of the IP is probably failed o-rings on the delivery valves. A special socket is needed to remove them, and you should replace the o-ring, copper washer, and spring for each DV. Further, a special torque sequence is required when you install them: tighten to 30 Nm, release, tighten to 30, release, tighten to 30, then tighten to 35Nm.

Those leaking DV's will cause trouble and rough running until you take care of that.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Thanks for all your advice. I redid the loom that feeds the relays that work the vacuum system as it looked to be shorting. Also noticed that the pushrod that actuates the throttle butterfly was not set to the original length judging by the marks on it. Set it back to the original witness marks and it runs fine now. Back to using the car but the next job is the DVs. Not sure how to torque them in the manner prescribed as there is a line coming out and a socket / torque wrench won't fit. It needs to be an open ended spanner..