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  #1  
Old 05-25-2002, 09:54 PM
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Location: Portland Oregon, USA
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Exclamation HELP! Ingnition Switch wont budge from OFF position!!

ACK!

So i drive my 240d home and shut her off. I forgot to close the sunroof, and wanted to turn the switch back so i can close it (a natural desire, no?).. *!*. the Key will not budge past the Off posistion now! it appears as if it is really stuck in the off position. I can remove and re-insert the ignition key, like normal, but turning it with any effort will not allow it to budge. (its as if i inserted the wrong key!) I thought maybe if i rocked the steering wheel back and forth, it might "unlock" the switch, but no dice as of yet (tho, i do see the switch physically move slightly when i do this). Here is what i have done so far..; I have removed the under-dash panel, so i can take a view under the dash and see the keyswitch assembly. what caught my eye, are two vacuum-looking hoses attached towards the rear of the switch assembly, and it appeared that one or possibly both hoses have an oily film on them (as well as a few drops of dark oil that seems to be run-off from these hoses. these drops of oil seemed to have hit a couple of neighboring wires to the ignition switch as well, btw). I wonder what could be the problem?? Is my Vacuum diaphram shot? Cuz my door locks work great, as does everything else vacuum-related..?? My one concern for the moment, is to get my Sunroof closed somehow! (i think it will start raining later tonite!).. is there a way to manually (even if temporarily), "engage" the ignition switch so i can close the sunroof? Any info/advice to this dilemma, i'd be in your debt! Thanks so much,

Miles

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  #2  
Old 05-25-2002, 10:07 PM
Holson Adi's Avatar
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Location: Boston, MA
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I'd just close the sunroof using the emergency nut located in the trunk.

it's behind the driver's side trunk plastic liner. Carefully remove the plastic liner and find the sunroof motor.
There should be a plastic nut that you could manually turn to close and open the sunroof.

I don't know what sort of tool you need to manually close it. Maybe you could use an adjustable wrench...

good luck!

replace the ignition switch's tumbler. I have some 'lock' work to be done this week too.
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  #3  
Old 05-25-2002, 10:45 PM
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That is a great feature.... Now, if they had just provided a manual backup system for the 300 electric windows......
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Old 05-25-2002, 10:50 PM
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(!) UPDATE: Thanks for the emergency sunroof info! it worked! got the sunroof all closed up! (and just in time!).. =) now.. back to the ignition switch! ..... grr!!!


-Miles
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  #5  
Old 05-26-2002, 05:43 AM
turbodiesel
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This is really bad news if you cant get the key to turn anymore. I'm sure you have been having this key sticky problem for a while and have just been jiggiling the key to get it to turn.

I have never done this before, but I have heard the only way to get the tumbler assembly out (which is what is bad in your case, NOT the ignition switch) is to drill it out.

Search the posts, there will probably be something on it.
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  #6  
Old 05-26-2002, 06:11 AM
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Location: Cape Cod Massachusetts
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Lightbulb Well this might be something the little woman can help you with!

First order of business is to order a new key/tumbler from the dealer so that as soon as you get the key to turn you can remove the old tumbler and pop in your new one!

How to get the key to turn is the next order of business keep trying and jiggling and moving the key eventually the tumbler pins might line up!

Or attach a handle to the key so that you can apply levered pressure in the clockwise direction that the key normally will turn, use a Popsicle stick or small screwdriver. Next get an electrical appliance that vibrates! Yeah any good vibrating appliance will work electric razor, tooth brush, a carbide tipped engraver is good, or well maybe the wife or girlfriend can think of something!?!? and a jigsaw has been known to work!

190E Ignition lock broken - Help needed

Apply slight pressure to the lever and at the same time apply vibrations to the key head, eventually the vibrating tumbler pins will all be in alignment and the key/tumbler will turn. Thatís when you remove the old and pop in the new.
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Old 05-26-2002, 06:30 PM
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Well my tumbler died on me too. Fortunately it worked halfway. I had to put the key in and turn it as far as I could then pull the key out a little and then turn it as normal. My valet key worked it perfectly, I've concluded it's because it has the sharpest teeth due to the minimal use compared to the other keys. My new tumber came with a new key which works the old, broken one. I will take pics of what I mean by pulling the key out slightly.
Here is the key where it in all the way and won't turn. By the way, this is my most worn key that I do not use anymore.
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Old 05-26-2002, 06:31 PM
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Here is the key pulled out to where it will allow me to turn the tumbler.
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  #9  
Old 05-26-2002, 06:31 PM
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And then the tumbler turned.
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  #10  
Old 05-26-2002, 08:46 PM
MVK MVK is offline
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I had similar problem but its ok now

I had a similar problem in my 300D turbo about 2 yrs back, I disconnected the battery, sprayed some WD40, inserted the key in and used my homedics body massager and hold it against the key and let the vibations run in thru the key and use the free hand to wiggle the key after few attemps it did turn, I also had another key, that worked little better soI started using that key. Also sprayed a lot of graphite lock spray and It has been working since then. I still spray the graphite spray once every 6-8 months just to be sure. and touch wood no probs.
I dont know if this will do the job for you but its worth the try.
uSE A NEWER KEY IF YOU HAVE IT IN SPARE.

Good luck

MVK
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  #11  
Old 05-26-2002, 09:24 PM
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I tried WD40 as well. It did not help... well at least not that I know of. I did use WD40 in my door locks, man do they turn nice and smooth now!!! Use a spare key, and if that works schedule a service w/ mercedes to get it replaced. They match it to your VIN so the keys all work. It's gonna run you 300 bucks or so. Or you can get the part from them and do it yourself. It's really not too hard.
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  #12  
Old 05-27-2002, 12:52 AM
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Wink

WD 40 will work-Short term. Long term, any oils will evaporate the carrier and leave thick, dust catching oil in the lock and on the pins and tumbler causing grief and angst. Most of our cars could use a quick lock tune up: Take off outer handle. It takes all of 45 second to a minute on 123 or 126 Chassis cars. Clean lock assembly thoroughly with electrical contact cleaner. Later 126's have a electrical switch on them also. After cleaning, lube the lock and mechanism with Powered Graphite. Work the key in and out and get that graphite down in all the pins and springs. Graphite is available from any hardware store or Pep Boys. Your locks will work like the day they came off the line in Germany!!
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  #13  
Old 05-27-2002, 10:21 PM
peterkris
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My ignition lock is starting to act up, too. My solution has been to leave the key in the lock all the time. My car is an old rusted wagon ('82 TDT), so I figure no one will want to steal it!
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  #14  
Old 05-28-2002, 03:58 AM
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I don't recommend WD40 for very many uses, other than water displacement. It's light lubricity doesn't last very long, and is not intended to be a lubricant. On locks, never use WD40! It does attract nasty stuff, and you will end up worse off!
Use a lock lubricant only, and you will have excellent service. Shouldn't even wear out!

FWIW dept.
WD40 was the end result of a scientist/chemist (British, I think) who was developing a water dispersal chemical. This was his 40th formula and the one that worked! Thus the name WD40.
When we had points for ignitions, and crummy distributor caps, it was common to get moisture inside the cap and the distributor would misfire the cylinders. The quick settlement was to pop the cap and spray WD40 to get the water out. I always just wiped the water out with a rag and let air dry if I could.
I think that this spray was used by fleets and army verhicles, where you couldn't wait for things to dry!

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