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#1
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Trap Oxidizer on 123 CA edition...ideas?
Thinking that my trap oxidizer was completely plugged and therefore robbing all my power, I decided to remove it to investigate. However, upon removal I discovered that the trap was completely broken where it bolts onto the manifold. Well that answers one question! However, now that I have the mount welded back together, I have no idea how to bolt this thing back on. It looks completely unaccessable. I have no idea how I would have removed the trap in the first place if it weren't broken. In addition, there is a mounting bracket between the trap and the engine that looks impossible to get to with the engine still in the car. (in fact, this bracket was not attached before I removed it and surely caused the mount to fail). So, I took the trap to my local welder friend and he can make me a straight pipe to do away with the trap altogether, which would solve several problems. However, he will have to make a jig and it will probably cost me $350 for the jig and the part. Any ideas or tips? My trap looks clean inside, but I would love to get rid of it, but I am poorer now than ever in my life so I don't want to spend much.
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#2
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Call Phil at fastlane.....ask him where you can get a trap ox,he will give you a number for somewhere in socal.That guy has trap ox and straight pipes for sale.If I remember the straight pipe is about $120....hope this helps
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#3
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go get the federal manifolds, turbo, downpipe, and oil line from a junkyard for less than $100.
somewhere there is a DIY on the process, i just spent 5 minutes looking for it and cant find it, maybe someone else can point you to it.
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![]() 1996 E300 110,000 1985 300TD 212,000 1980 300D 238,000 |
#4
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I'll second the recommendation for the Federal conversion... much easier than messing with the trap, or the later oxidation cat installed under recall (they look the same, can only tell the difference via part numbers).
Also - if your car never had the original trap replaced under recall, call the dealer and give them your VIN. They should replace it with the oxi-cat for free. Details are in these documents: http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/OM60X/trap_oxidizer1.pdf http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/OM60X/trap_oxidizer2.pdf http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/OM60X/trap_oxidizer3.pdf Of course, that information may have been more useful before you took everything apart - sorry! ![]()
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#5
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3x for federalization. Its a parts swapping job and definitely worth the effort.
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#7
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As said above, go with the federal manifolds. if you can find a set off a 78 -79 w116 300SD, these were before EGR and nothing to block off and look much cleaner. will have to get a shorter downpipe, as the cali one is longer. also you won`t be stuck buying $ a cali starter when you need one.
Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#8
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Stay with your California plumbing and replace the trap cat with a straight pipe. The California version has a better cold-air intake and air filter; you're better off staying with it. (Also, with the trap cat out of the way, you can use a Federal starter.)
Jeremy
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![]() "Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#9
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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions) '08 Chevy Tahoe '93 Ducati 900 SS '79 Kawasaki KZ 650 '86 Kawasaki KX 250 '88 Kawasaki KDX200 '71 Hodaka Ace 100 '72 Triumph T100R |
#10
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Quote:
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![]() 1996 E300 110,000 1985 300TD 212,000 1980 300D 238,000 |
#11
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the bypass from Dieselkid is $200... and available on Ebay.
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#12
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Still too much for a pipe.
$200 will get you all the parts you need from a junkyard and still have a few bucks left. |
#13
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Quote:
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#14
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I heard from a friend who heard from a friend (out of State of course....)
He switched to the Fed system by buying an exhaust manifold and down pipe, from an earlier model 300D. Sun Valley Auto Dismantlers had the parts. He then removed the bolts that hold the turbo housing together and rotated the snail to fit the new manifold. He forgets the actual degrees of rotation, but you can eyeball it very easy. A little modification to the air cleaner/turbo intake hose, and yer done. He can't remember the cost of the parts, but they were very reasonable. |
#15
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Quote:
on a personal note: $200 is alot for a 'pipe'. but rolling the dice on a JY turbo is far worse unless you rebuild it first = $80 + $75 = $155 just for the turbo and a rebuild kit. I am unaware of what they charge for manifolds, last time I bought one it was $15 for a four-banger. you're now approaching the cost of that pipe and you still need oil lines, an entire down pipe, new gaskets and much more labor... If your turbo is in good shape.. why mess with it? and add extraneous amounts of labor?.... I am sure there are some benefits to a more direct routing of the exhaust to turbo, but it still comes down to a personal cost-benefit anbalysis |
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