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  #1  
Old 04-14-2009, 11:25 AM
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Trap Oxidizer on 123 CA edition...ideas?

Thinking that my trap oxidizer was completely plugged and therefore robbing all my power, I decided to remove it to investigate. However, upon removal I discovered that the trap was completely broken where it bolts onto the manifold. Well that answers one question! However, now that I have the mount welded back together, I have no idea how to bolt this thing back on. It looks completely unaccessable. I have no idea how I would have removed the trap in the first place if it weren't broken. In addition, there is a mounting bracket between the trap and the engine that looks impossible to get to with the engine still in the car. (in fact, this bracket was not attached before I removed it and surely caused the mount to fail). So, I took the trap to my local welder friend and he can make me a straight pipe to do away with the trap altogether, which would solve several problems. However, he will have to make a jig and it will probably cost me $350 for the jig and the part. Any ideas or tips? My trap looks clean inside, but I would love to get rid of it, but I am poorer now than ever in my life so I don't want to spend much. Also, if I go with the straight pipe, do I need to make a fitting to hook up the EGR? Thanks for any help you can give. Maybe some of you would be interested in a trap bypass as well and could help cover the cost of the jig???? Thanks

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  #2  
Old 04-14-2009, 12:00 PM
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Call Phil at fastlane.....ask him where you can get a trap ox,he will give you a number for somewhere in socal.That guy has trap ox and straight pipes for sale.If I remember the straight pipe is about $120....hope this helps
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  #3  
Old 04-14-2009, 12:30 PM
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go get the federal manifolds, turbo, downpipe, and oil line from a junkyard for less than $100.

somewhere there is a DIY on the process, i just spent 5 minutes looking for it and cant find it, maybe someone else can point you to it.
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Old 04-14-2009, 05:29 PM
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I'll second the recommendation for the Federal conversion... much easier than messing with the trap, or the later oxidation cat installed under recall (they look the same, can only tell the difference via part numbers).

Also - if your car never had the original trap replaced under recall, call the dealer and give them your VIN. They should replace it with the oxi-cat for free. Details are in these documents:

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/OM60X/trap_oxidizer1.pdf
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/OM60X/trap_oxidizer2.pdf
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/OM60X/trap_oxidizer3.pdf


Of course, that information may have been more useful before you took everything apart - sorry!

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Old 04-14-2009, 05:56 PM
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3x for federalization. Its a parts swapping job and definitely worth the effort.
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  #6  
Old 04-14-2009, 08:38 PM
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there is already a bypass available

Strange, I had mine break in the same location as yours... you wont have much luck aligning that unit properly if it has been welded with even the slightest error.
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Old 04-14-2009, 10:49 PM
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As said above, go with the federal manifolds. if you can find a set off a 78 -79 w116 300SD, these were before EGR and nothing to block off and look much cleaner. will have to get a shorter downpipe, as the cali one is longer. also you won`t be stuck buying $ a cali starter when you need one.


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Old 04-14-2009, 11:44 PM
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Stay with your California plumbing and replace the trap cat with a straight pipe. The California version has a better cold-air intake and air filter; you're better off staying with it. (Also, with the trap cat out of the way, you can use a Federal starter.)

Jeremy
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Old 04-15-2009, 01:57 AM
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http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617CalToFed
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Stay with your California plumbing and replace the trap cat with a straight pipe. The California version has a better cold-air intake and air filter; you're better off staying with it. (Also, with the trap cat out of the way, you can use a Federal starter.)
you can keep your cali air filter setup with the federal manifolds. the straight pipe would be fine and dandy if it didnt cost $400.00
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  #11  
Old 04-15-2009, 10:39 AM
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the bypass from Dieselkid is $200... and available on Ebay.
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  #12  
Old 04-15-2009, 10:46 AM
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Still too much for a pipe.

$200 will get you all the parts you need from a junkyard and still have a few bucks left.
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  #13  
Old 04-15-2009, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
Stay with your California plumbing and replace the trap cat with a straight pipe. The California version has a better cold-air intake and air filter; you're better off staying with it. (Also, with the trap cat out of the way, you can use a Federal starter.)
Exellent suggestion - you definitely want to retain the CA intake, if only to eliminate the broken mount problem that plagues the round tin can air cleaner used through 1984. Is it possible to use the 1985 CA intake manifolds, with Federal exhaust manifolds...? Seems like that would be the ultimate setup.

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  #14  
Old 04-15-2009, 11:20 AM
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I heard from a friend who heard from a friend (out of State of course....)

He switched to the Fed system by buying an exhaust manifold and down pipe, from an earlier model 300D. Sun Valley Auto Dismantlers had the parts. He then removed the bolts that hold the turbo housing together and rotated the snail to fit the new manifold. He forgets the actual degrees of rotation, but you can eyeball it very easy. A little modification to the air cleaner/turbo intake hose, and yer done. He can't remember the cost of the parts, but they were very reasonable.
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  #15  
Old 04-15-2009, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
Still too much for a pipe.

$200 will get you all the parts you need from a junkyard and still have a few bucks left.

on a personal note:

$200 is alot for a 'pipe'.

but rolling the dice on a JY turbo is far worse unless you rebuild it first = $80 + $75 = $155 just for the turbo and a rebuild kit.

I am unaware of what they charge for manifolds, last time I bought one it was $15 for a four-banger.

you're now approaching the cost of that pipe and you still need oil lines, an entire down pipe, new gaskets and much more labor...

If your turbo is in good shape.. why mess with it? and add extraneous amounts of labor?.... I am sure there are some benefits to a more direct routing of the exhaust to turbo, but it still comes down to a personal cost-benefit anbalysis

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