Traded work for a diesel. Cant beat it right? Been sitting for a year and a half went over on the first crank and runs semi decent. Needs a laundry list of work. Brake sinks to floor, windshield cracked and rockers need repair and trans is is empty on the dipstick. Has leaking injectors as well.

Has a rather noisy top end but doesn't smoke at all.
Here's a video. Sounds like lifters right?
https://youtu.be/u8rrvMGUxHg

__________________
Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

Sounds like the guy you were working for got one heckuva deal.

If you want to start with the noise (as opposed to the non functional brakes and transmission), remove the serp belt and start it up. That will tell you right away whether it's related to the belt system or anciallaries or whether it's really engine noise. 603's are prone to rattling belt tensioners, which need to be replaced at the first sign of trouble.

Not sure if I should take that as a good thing or a bad thing about the work. If I took off the belt and started it up, wouldn't it just squeal like crazy? Do they start to rattle with increased load? The trans works he told me, just leaks. How well, I don't know cause I got the car for free except for my labor. I can rebuild worst comes to worst. The way it sounds though is like a valve train noise. I stood over top of the engine. Thanks for the advice frank.

__________________
Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

If you take off the belt, you eliminate the PS pump, water pump, fan, AC compressor, alternator, idler pulley and tensioner as sources of noise and vibration. It should run very quietly. If not, the only remaining sources of noise are internal to the motor. It's a quick way to nail a noise as internal or external. Obviously, you only want to run a minute or so like this.

Sounds good. No smoke, and good oil pressure. It doesn't sound bottom end at all when I revved it all top end.. In the case that it is internal these cars usually don't have issues with bending rods like the 350sdls correct? Or wrist pin issues?

__________________
Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

The "14" head was prone to cracking, especially if the trapox wasn't replaced when they had the recall. They can have sunk tappets, valve seat recession, worn chains, turbo problems, EGR problems. But I've never heard of one having bent rods. That's mostly the 3.5L, AFAIK.

Increased exhaust temperatures cracked the head around the exhaust valve portion of the head I'd assume? Sounds like a lot of the issues with the OM602s floating around with chains and turbo problems. What were the EGR issues? Good to know it's solid motor otherwise if maintained.

I'll be picking the car up soon in the next few weeks after I sign the title over. I plan to pull the valve cover and check chain stretch and tappet wear, examine the turbo etc. I don't think I made out bad on this car. It's worth its weight in parts alone.

__________________
Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

I would highly recommend you put this car on a lift and thoroughly inspect for rust issues. If this is a northern car, it's prone to more rust issues.
You may decide not to throw a bunch of money at it after your inspection.

I already did. Pretty clean with the exceptions of the rockers and rust doesn't scare me.. I can weld and anything can be fixed and I have plenty of scrap sheet metal

__________________
Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k