Update after ~10 months, (about 6 or 7 months of driving, car was stored for 3 months)

The 3M 5200 coating is still firmly in place wherever I had coated the boots. Not easy to see in pics, but there is some new minor surface cracking in areas that I did not get at.

One outer boot has a small leak at the narrow end. Looks like it is leaking under the clamped end. Wondering if I could just tighten the clamp? What with? Maybe nail puller pincer/pliers plus vicegrip? Or remove the clamp and put on a tie-wrap or gear clamp? But how to remove without damaging boot?

(click on pics for full size)

Attachment 147893

Here are typical boot pics taken today:
Attachment 147894
Attachment 147895
Attachment 147896
Attachment 147897

For now, other than fix clamp, I think my boots will last for a while yet!

Otherwise, there's this technique:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITonOYCL6w4

Seen that before, but he didn't show me how to clamp the boots without the proper tool :)

By the way, from that guy's accent, I think he may live not too far from me. Maybe I should go and see him ;) But he doesn't say where he is.

OK - I decided to use pair of old pinchers and to squeeze the handles with a vicegrip. This youtube video gave me some clues

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wEU0JZzac4

and this post with MB pdf that says gap should be </+ 2.5mm

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w211-e-class/2836777-how-tighten-cv-boot-clamps-enough.html#post16122905

That guy makes it look easy. I tried that technique and I simply could not make it work. I wound up buying the Astoria pneumatic installation tool.

A pair of end nippers will work if you don't apply too much force.

I couldn't do it either until I cleaned the grease off my hands and the boot. The funnel stayed greased but I made sure my grip was not compromised with grease. I had the axle clamped on the floor where I could push straight down with both hands.


Heat the boot in warm water to soften it up first and with the added grip it goes on relatively easy. Without good grip on those stretchy boots it won't work.

With Oeitiker type clamps you can use a Nail Cutter/Tile Nipper to squeeze the clamp. Cheapie tool places sell them for $5-$2. I have even bought one at a 99 cent store.

Note that the cheap cutters are not sharp and that is a good thing.

If you use Dorman type clamps you cannot use the Nail Cutter/Tile Nipper.

My clamps are still the originals put on by MB. Like the ones in this pdf.

Anyway, I was able to get a little extra on clamps, although it could be that my cheap pinchers were bending!

While I was about it....

- I gave all 4 boots another coat of 3M 5200. It seems to be working. Hoping it will put off axle replacement for a few years at least.

- Had a look at what it would take to get the homo axles out. Those upper diff cover bolts would be tough without lowering the diff.

- Saw a little seepage from one of axle diff seals. Thought I should check or replace diff oil while about it. Even with cheater bar, I couldn't get the upper plug to move. Gave up on that! Do you think I should try impact gun on that plug?

I would try some penetrating oil first. The fill plug appears to be made of an aluminum alloy, so it won't take a lot of abuse.

Concering the Differantial Plug you can see how others removed theirs in the: Repair Links
Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

On mine the Differential Plug is Steel. I heated around the plug with a Propane Torch and since I did not have a large Allen Wrench I used a Rod Coupling with a Socket. I cannot remember for sure if it is 13mm or 14mm but my best recollection is that I used a 9/16 Rod Coupling.

If you heated the area I don't see that an impact wrench would do damage. If you used the Rod Coupling the normal ones you get at Hardware Store are not hardened like a bolt. If the plugged turned out to be extremely difficult during the use of an impact wrench I believe it would be the Rod Coupling that would distort not the Plug.

If for some reason the Plug hex stripped out you can remove the whole differential plate and drill or grind the plug out.

I don't recall having trouble getting at the upper Differential Cover Plate Bolts.

I included how the oetiker clamp tool workd. In the pic is one of the tools made for it however, the real oetiker tool has notches on the side so that you can also use the pliers in a different position.

Final Drive Fill Plug Fun
 

The plug needs a 14MM / 9/16" hex tool cheap most places .

I often have to use a pipe cheater slipped over my longest 1/2" drive flex handle (misnomer : breaker bar) and lie on the ground and push with my feet to break the plug loose the first time .

Make sure the aluminum washer is present and not terribly distorted .

I always ad magnets to both drain and fill plugs .

I have a set of large Allen keys as well as a 1/2" hex bit socket set. I removed the filler and drain once before, but that may have been on my 107, which is so similar, I get them mixed up!

Regarding the washer - From what I recall, one of the plugs has a washer and one is a tapered thread and has no washer.

I have car up quite high, but couldn't budge the filler plug. Afraid I might push it off the jack stands! Would be easier on a hoist. Maybe some heat would help.

PS: Those upper diff plate bolts are in a tight space. I never tried getting a socket in there. But do recall in axle DIYs that it was suggested to lower the diff to get at those bolts. Is that not required?

The job is best done with a floor jack under the differential. That way, you can lower the differential to remove the cover and clips, then raise it to improve the axle geometry when it's time to remove the axle shafts. Then you can lower it when you replace the shaft seals. Then raise it to install the shafts. Lower to replace the cover. Raise it to reinstall the mount. None of which is particularly difficult.

Drive Axle Service
 

Graham ;

I use (ALWAYS ! 3 ton safety stands so shoving the car off them isn't a worry .

I took a really hard push with my feet to break the filler plug loose .

The filler plug has n aluminum gasket, the drain plug is a taper thread .

When doing the drive axles on a W123 (I've not yet done a W126) you remove the rear wheels first, then undo the 13MM ATF bolt and push the axle inwards, it'll barely clear the outer suspension .

Then you undo the top two diffy cover bolts and then the 15MM ATF bolts and the cover comes right off .

I normally use two crossed drifts and a mallet to pop the snap rings loose, the last one went flying over my shoulder so I bought a spring hook tool at a Motocycle supply shop, it should work .

Yes, you're going to have to raise up the diffy after you've finished installing the new axles .

Remember to clean the diffy cover's mating surfaces HOSPITAL CLEAN using small wire brushes and alcohol, then smear a tiny bead of your favorite sealant just before you re install the cover .

Waiting to see if I still have seeping on axle boot and on diff seal before I change diff oil. If axles have to be changed, it will get done then.

Just letting 2nd coat of 3M 5200 on boots cure completely before putting car back on road.

PS: VWnate: Assuming safety stands = Jacks stands? Hopefully everyone uses them when working under car.