First thing I would do is to throw away the power bleeder. These toys just seem to make trouble. Bleed the brakes again WITH THE ENGINE ON. As you bleed, make sure the reservoir is kept filled to the top. Start with the right rear, then left rear, right front and finish left front. Then let's see what you have.

You know what, i'll give you the whole story. Once I finished the brake and bearing job, I attached the power bleeder to the master cylinder. I pumped to 10 psi, fluid began leaking from the fluid reservoir cap, spraying and peeing. Then immediately after the reservoir sensor caps bursted and shot fluid everywhere.


Ever since then it's been poor brakes.


Needless to say, i'm never using that thing again.

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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

The power bleeder didn't cause your low brakes. While the reservoir isn't pressure rated and could leak, the rest of the system runs around 1,000 PSI so there is no way 10 psi caused damage.

Saying " Ever since then it's been poor brakes. " and apparently ignoring the other parts you changed indicate you have no idea how a braking system works.

I foresee you getting another MC, installing it , bleeding the brakes over and over with no improvement , demanding the parts seller send a new one to replace the "defective" one they sold you.

Turned the car on,
While the car was on, I bled from the right rear, to left rear, to front right, to front left.
Kept bleeding all four lines until there was a nice long solid stream of brake fluid.
And I made sure the reservoir was ALWAYS above the minimum line.
Took the car for a spin, and the brake pedal is still a slush box and the pedal makes that distinctive airy sound when I engage the brakes.

Also had the sensors re installed...and no warning lights came about when the engine was on.

While the car is off, when I press my foot on the brake pedal, it doesn't "give out" and depress to the floor. However, given enough force it can slowly be pushed down with the pedal itself having a good bit of resistance.
I can push it down an eighth or a quarter of an inch and it will hold at that interval, I can push down another eighth or quarter of an inch and it will still hold. The only problem is that when the car is off, that pedal is supposed to feel like a brick wall IIRC, there shouldn't be ANY movement in the pedal when I put my foot on it.

And if I leave the pedal at it's initial position OR push down a small interval and THEN turn the engine on, the pedal will then "give out" and depress to the floor accordingly.
And the airy slushy pedal comes back.
Once I turn the engine off, I can pump the brakes and the airyness goes away, the pedal begins to build resistance and firm up, but it can still be pushed down with some force like a mentioned earlier.

So that's basically where I'm at. What's next?

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.