My radiator started leaking from somewhere near the top, I thought it was the upper hose, which I tried to correct, but it still leaks a little bit. Water seems to collect around the metal bracket that holds the inlet tank onto the radiatior, i am hoping this is just where the water is settling after it leaks from the upper hose, but I am worried the oring between the inlet tank and the rest of the radiator might have failed.
Has anyone had this happen?
Is it repairable or should I buy a new one if it turns out to be failed?
Does anyone know where to get a full metal radiator? Kinda like the one on the 80 300sd?

I am going to adjust the hose some more when i have more time, i hope this isnt too serious & I hope I am just overreacting.

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A junkyard is not for junk

Buy a new radiator. If the upper bracket implodes, the upper radiator hose will disconnect at driving speed and you could loose your engine or at best be replacing the head gasket.

The only reputable new radiators are the Behr and Nissens.

Dkr.

Pressure test it before you buy. Tester can be borrowed from the store. Harbor Freight has a set that works for not much money if you get tired of running to the parts store.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

ill keep a close eye on my coolant temps. How does the upper bracket implode?

Ill look into pressure testing as well. I'm going to try to get the hose straigtened out in the meant time, maybe I'm lucky.

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A junkyard is not for junk

nissen or behr btw?

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A junkyard is not for junk

See W123 plastic radiator neck

I think the general consensus is the Nissens is cheaper and both units work about the same. I think the Behr is OEM, but have heard good things about both and used both new in W123s.

Dkr.

I got the nissens and changed all the major hoses

Apparently it has a reinforced neck

So ive abandoned any idea for pursuing a plastic tanked radiator.. Im going to get an all aluminum one. I found a few within my price range, theyll only need slight modification for the downtube of the expansion tank, but for under $200 theyre looking good. I might go for an all aluminum radiator from an FJ Toyota Land Cruiser, but Champion seems to be well and reliable as a company, but looked down upon for usually being Chinese made. I like to keep Chinese parts out of my German sedan, even if its becoming obvious that Chinese production standards are improving. Im superstitious like that. Anyways all aluminum radiator will be done, I will post a how to when i'm done. Luckily my Behr is still hanging out, I'm keeping it topped off and watching my gauge like a hawk till I have my new setup.

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A junkyard is not for junk

What's the purpose of putting an aluminum radiator in?

Dkr.

Let us know how it fits. The 1982-85 300D radiators are narrow (given the oil cooler), whereas most newer cars have short & wide radiators. 1950's and earlier vehicles had tall, narrow radiators. The Land Cruiser has a similar engine bay. Perhaps a 1957 Chevy after-market one would fit.

Many classic car owners switch to aluminum for better cooling, lighter, and more bling. I put an aluminum Be Cool radiator in my 1965 Newport. Aluminum will corrode much quicker than copper if everything isn't perfect. I switched to Evans Waterless coolant in most of my vehicles to minimize that, plus it builds no pressure.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Aluminum is also much stronger than copper or brass. Any recommendations on how to switch from distilled water? Im going to need to have to pump out all or as much of the water as possible, how do I get it out of the block?

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A junkyard is not for junk

My first car was a '65 Newport. 4door pillarless hardtop in baby blue. Wonderful car.