Cleaning engine/trans casings, caked on grease/dirt/crud. ALUMINUM

Most grease cleaners say (or dont) not for use on aluminum as they will stain or ruin the finish.

What will work on thick, crusted grease on aluminum cases? Thinners, acetone, brakleen? I would like new/clean finish, not just OK clean.

With the crusted on crap you're going to need some elbow grease and scrubbing. There's simply no way around it. I've had excellent luck with a product called "Oil Eater" that I got for cheap on Amazon. For really nasty stuff, put it on straight and let it sit for a little while. It'll liquify all the sludge and make it much easier to get off. Unlike the purple cleaners, it won't hurt the aluminum.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

High pressure steam? Diesel or diodiesel if it's not going down the storm drain?

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

I use biodiesel. It works incredibly well for removing grease (better than any commercial degreaser I've used). BUT, don't let it get on any rubber parts you want to keep, because sometimes it can melt some rubber parts.

Easy-Off Oven Cleaner works GREAT for removing baked-on grease and carbon deposits from steel and aluminum. Just don't let it set on there for more than a few hours and be careful with it as the fumes are very bad. I've used it to clean parts like transmission cases, intake manifolds, and valve covers in conjunction with a coarse steel brush. You can follow up with a steel brush and polish like Blue Magic for a real clean look. You can use a brass brush on non-textured or more delicate parts.

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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles

I've used Simple Green, but you need to REALLY flush it off, the acid will eventually attack the aluminum. On thick pieces like oil pans and trans case, I'm not too worried about the acid, but on thinner stuff you need to beware.

Again, you'll still need to scrub and rinse.

I've also used the FLAPS engine cleaner that comes in an aerosol can, followed up by high pressure water, and those did very well. If you've got a pressure washer or a local car wash that allows engine cleaning, you should have good luck with that method.

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M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

I've used "Gunk" for years, diluted with kerosene, pressure wash, then a dose of Tide and pressure wash again. Did this even before the age of pressure washers with no detrimental effects.

Yup, no getting around the scrubbing. I use the "LA's Totally Awesome" as recommended by other members of this forum. Does a good job used in conjunction with the throw-away brushes you find in the bargain bins. Get the polyester ones as the natural bristle ones tend to disintegrate.


The oven cleaner works a treat as shown but you need to protect painted or chrome surfaces. Pretty nasty stuff to rinse off also. I'd suggest doing it in the ex'es driveway.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Do be aware that purple cleaners (contain chlorine), LA's Totally Awesome, and Oven Cleaner will discolor aluminum parts and leave a black powdery substance behind, especially if left on to soak. They won't bother iron or steel. Been there, done that. It's more work to clean up the aluminum oxide than to get the oil off!

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Huh. I guess I've either been lucky or rinsed the cleaner off quick enough to avoid discoloration. I'll keep this in mind.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Simple Green is a high-alkaline cleaner. Acidity is not the issue.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

Every few months, I go to the carwash, where engine cleaning is an option on the token operated machine.

I install a temporary cone air cleaner to get the airbox off the engine before driving to the carwash.
After removing the temporary cone filter in the carwash bay, I cover the turbo inlet with two nitrile glove and a spray can cap, and I cover the crakcase oil recovery tube with two nitrile gloves

I use a one gallon garden sprayer to apply full strength ZEP Heavy-Duty Citrus Degreaser.
Then I let it sit for a few minutes, and use the carwash pressure wand to spray off the degreaser and virtually all of the grease.
Nylon bristle brushes work well to loosen the caked on stuff if you need a repeat application of the degreaser.

The ZEP Heavy-Duty Citrus Gegreaser is designed to be used in food preparation areas, so I feel it is pretty safe to use on the engine.

I've also used diluted Dawn dishwashing liquid detergent, but it takes a lot of rinsing to remove all the soap.

There are commercial services available that use Dry Ice blasting to get everything to a like-new level of cleanliness.
I imagine it would be a bit pricey.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Troopers: Fix your oil leaks. Once a year will do it then.

Sometimes oven cleaner can make the aluminum turn dark-colored, depending on conditions. If you use Blue Magic or similar aluminum polish with a brass or steel brush afterward, followed by application of a cleaner like LA's Totally Awesome and rinse it off, it will look sparkly new.

I remember that many years ago I had a transmission from an International-Harvester Travelall. I asked around and read various posts, and the consensus was to take it to a car wash and clean it there, as the wastewater would get processed and it was more environmentally friendly than just doing it in your yard.

So, I wheeled it over in a wheelbarrow with some engine degreaser and started washing it at the car wash. A huge, scary guy came over to me, got all up in my face, and started yelling at me. I asked him if he worked at the car wash, and he said, "No, but it's people like you that make it so places like this have to shut down!"

I told him that I had researched the most responsible place to clean one of these, and many people had told me to use a car wash because the waste water gets processed. He just got more upset, said it goes straight into the sewer, and told me to f*** off.

So, is it a good idea to clean dirty engines and car parts at a car wash? I am not sure.

__________________
Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/

DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES!


1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles