The information I have posted is what the mechanics have told me. This repair is beyond my own pay grade and I trust what they have communicated. I'm not blaming these guys for anything. They told me this diagnosis. With that said, there may be bits and pieces/descriptions that I am unable to remember when they explained the situation to me.
The same shop replaced my head gasket at 185,000 miles because it was leaking oil. I had it replaced along with glow plugs and a few other items. I remember we removed the camshafts for this procedure.
They must have seen the bent valve from the intake manifold being off.

I'll update on what the machine shop says about the head once we receive evaluation.

__________________
Ed
-1984 Mercedes 190D 2.2 5-speed gray market(bought@30,000 miles) (Sold back to original owner@170,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes E300DT (245,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes S500 Grand Edition (80,000 miles)

On this particular engine the stems are small diameter and angled relative to the cylinder bore. This makes them less strong than a connecting rod / piston / bearing so the chance of lower end damage is zero given the engine is running.

From what I'm able to build with spotty information, they may have bent 2 valves in the same cylinder during intake cam install ( 24 V 6 Cyl ) . This would account for poor running but the no start is likely another issue entirely.


How about suing them for pain and suffering also? Having the shop pay for a replacement engine is well beyond reasonable.

Interesting. I'll see what they say when I bring this information up.

__________________
Ed
-1984 Mercedes 190D 2.2 5-speed gray market(bought@30,000 miles) (Sold back to original owner@170,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes E300DT (245,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes S500 Grand Edition (80,000 miles)

These are good guys that somewhere/somehow made a mistake. They were honest and want to make it right. There's no way I would do as it wouldn't be the right thing to do.

__________________
Ed
-1984 Mercedes 190D 2.2 5-speed gray market(bought@30,000 miles) (Sold back to original owner@170,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes E300DT (245,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes S500 Grand Edition (80,000 miles)

Really? You're assuming that there is no damage to the bottom end. Until that is established as fact, I would not settle for anything less, if this were my car. A good used engine can be found for $1000 or less, I'll bet that in the end it would be cheaper and less risk to purchase and install that than pulling the head, fixing the head, measuring all the piston heights to determine if the bottom end is damaged, putting it all back together with new gaskets and maybe new head bolts (second time this head has been off). I would certainly have more faith in a used engine that's never been opened up than any engine these folks have been inside, especially if they go into the bottom end.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

This was not directed at you, it was a reply to Maxbumpo's " have the shop pay for a used engine". He is being vastly unreasonable.

I have repaired / rebuilt countless engines and the chances of a 7MM valve stem that is at an angle to the piston or even a pair in the same cylinder bending a connecting rod / damaging a bearing is zero. Remember, the connecting rod is essentially completely vertical for a valve to hit a piston if the cam is out of time. Based on very spotty info, the valve ( if really bent ) was bent during cam install and not while the engine was running.

The Deutz 1011 and 2011 series industrial engines use a timing belt that when neglected, breaks. This will bend push rods, break rockers, break rocker studs on a cylinder or two as the valve stems are parallel to the cylinder.

Standard procedure is to replace belt, broken parts and send it back out. This is coming from a now retired friend that worked and managed a Deutz service center whom has built more engines of all makes than most of the people on this list combined.

We are getting lots of bad second hand information from the OP that would make even a good shop look bad. I'd want to hear what the machine shop says and what specific cylinder(s) were involved to piece together what happened.

Well, according to the OP, then engine was run and the car was driven around. Damage is beyond just the two valves, if the below is correct.

This is really unfortunate for the OP, and one of the reasons why I like to do all my own work. When someone else messes up and damages your car, it becomes a mess.

I'd really be looking hard for a good used engine at this point.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

I have an update for you all on my car. I got it back from the shop in November and it has performed well. No burning oil, oil leaks, weird noises, etc. Starts up in -5 degree weather in an instant. What you won't read in the description is that I have a new injection pump, rebuilt injectors, new glow plugs and a new AC Compressor as well. Here's a detailed description on symptoms, and what was done to fix the engine in case you all are curious:

"After test driving the vehicle died just after pulling back into the driveway.
Could not get it to run for more than a few seconds. It was necessary to push
the vehicle into the shop. Tech started diagnosing the no start. From looking at the transparent fuel lines it was apparent that the was air in the fuel.
From talking to the customer with his experience replacing the fuel filter, it
appears the engine should have started much easier than it did and should
continue to run and not take this long to bleed the air out of the system.
Attached a vacuum pump to the fuel return line going back to the fuel tank
and started to pull a vacuum with the key on. We were able to pull a couple of gallons of fuel through the system and still we were getting air. Started at
the prefilter and started pulling a vacuum on the fuel lines; gradually we
worked our way to the injection pump. Through this line of testing we were
able to confirm most of the system is working as it should be. The fuel shut
off is operating and holding vacuum. The lift pump we found is not made to hold vacuum on the output line. This we were able to confirm as a normal operation by testing the old lift pump and it tested the same way. Through this testing it eventually led us to finding a bad o- ring on the line from the fuel filter right where it connects into the top of fuel shut-off solenoid on the side of the injection pump (the line with the bad o-ring is a line that the customer did not have a new one to replace and was reused). Replaced the bad o-ring with a good used one from one of the old lines that were replaced. Reassembled the vehicle and attempted to start it. It was evident by watching the transparent fuel lines that the air bled out of the system more quickly. However the vehicle still did not run right. We were able to get it to fire a few times, but it misfired and would not stay running. The customer ended up taking a different vehicle and left his for us to diagnose.
Removed the fuel injectors and sent them out to have them retested. Our thought was that with all the air that ran through the injectors, we may have worn them out due to a lack of lubrication. The injectors all tested good. This is not our cause for the rough running.
Next we attempted a compression test. We did not have the correct compression tester adapter so we attempted to hold a pressure adapter in place by hand. We were unable to get accurate readings, but we did find cylinder #2 and #4 were both not building as much pressure as the other cylinders. Through further inspection we found that we have one intake valve on each cylinder that is not closing fully. It appears that the valves are bent. The valves on cylinders 2 and 4 are clean and not carboned up like the other cylinders.
At this point we started performing more research on the work we had already done to find out how this condition could be caused. We ended up finding out (through watching tutorial videos) that we had timed the injection pump off of the wrong mark on the cam so we we ended up timing the fuel injection pump 180 degrees off of where it should have been on the intake cam and 360 degrees off on the crank shaft. At this point we are surprised it even ran at all.
From the fact that the valves on cylinder 2 and 4 are clean and not all carboned up like the others, our thought was that we had a chunk of carbon hold the valve open allowing it to be struck by the piston.
Next we removed the cylinder head, since the only way to replace the bent valves is with the head off. While removing the cylinder head we pressurized each cylinder and we found one intake valve leaking on cylinders #1, #2, and #3. Once the cylinder head was removed we found that the precombustion chambers for cylinder #2 and #4 were damaged and the ends were missing. The inside of the head and the tops of the pistons on cylinder #2 and #4 are both pitted and there are several small metal chunks that appear to be the remnants of the precombustion chambers on the piston and sticking into the surface of the cylinder head. Next we will have to have the head sent out and evaluated by a machine shop. Also, we will share pictures of the pistons with them to get their recommendation.
From this our conclusion is we built up fuel in the cylinders due to the air in
the fuel lines and the fact we were injecting it at the wrong point in time
(because the injection pump timing was off). Since we had so much fuel in the cylinder it would continue to run even though we were continuing to inject the fuel at the wrong time. At some point in time we had too much fuel ignite in the precombustion chambers causing them to come apart and causing the internal engine damage; the end of the precombustion chamber bounced around in the cylinder. It was likely this component that got caught between the piston and the valves, causing them to bend. The two precombustion chambers likely failed at two different times. It appears that the one in cylinder 2 is the one that failed last (cylinder 4 still has a light coating of carbon on everything in the cylinder, indicating combustion was still occurring). The intake valve was bent worse on cylinder 2; once the valve bent all combustion was lost and that is why the head and piston are clean on cylinder 2. On a diesel the fuel will not ignite without compression. Apparently the valve on 4 was sealing enough to allow it to build enough compression to ignite the fuel. The valve on cylinder 2 likely bent just as we pulled into the driveway and the vehicle died. After this point the vehicle ran worse than it it ever had before and we never got it to run more than a few seconds after this.
DAMAGED PISTONS AND TAKE TO SKARLUPKA - LOOKING FOR MACHINE SHOP'S OPINION ON
WHETHER THEY CAN BE REUSED OR REPAIRED, OR WHETHER THEY NEED TO BE REPLACED.
We were hoping to not have to replace the pistons as there was no scoring in the cylinder walls and no obvious damage directly related to the ring lands in the piston. When we showed the pictures of the pistons to the machine shop they stated they had to be replaced. already off to diagnose the misfires and bent valves. Removed the oil pan so we could access the connecting rod bolts and slide the rod and piston out the top of the block. We were able to do this without removing the engine (since only two pistons were needed and the block did not need to be honed, it was not necessary to remove it). This allowed us to disassemble less and prevented us from needing to order additional specialty Mercedes tools. Also, since we did not have the front suspension apart we did not have to have a wheel alignment done. It did not reduce labor time because fishing the oil pan and gasket into place is a lot more challenging and time consuming than just installing it when the engine on a stand.
On the cylinder head, two prechambers blew apart due to the incorrect injection timing. With the pump timing being off in relation to the engine timing, it is off on all the cylinders the same amount in the same direction. This means that all 6 prechambers were more or less exposed to the same conditions. Due to this we did not reuse any of the prechambers and risk having one fail on us (thus necessitating doing this whole job again). A new cylinder head is over $2600 from the dealer and does not come complete; it comes as only the aluminum machined portion. All other parts (valves, guides, studs, prechambers etc) are sold separately.
Prechambers are no longer supported by the OEM. The cost of the prechambers from the aftermarket are more expensive than a used head. Because of these factors, we purchased a used head and had it rebuilt, rather than purchase the parts to fix the one we had. Replaced pistons #2 and #4. The new pistons come with new rings installed. Swapped the pistons onto the old rods after measuring piston height to verify none of the connecting rods were bent. All of the piston heights are the same and match the specification. We also measured the connecting rod bolts and verified they match the specification and are not stretched. Reassembled the lower half of the engine and installed the engine oil pan with a new gasket. Cleaned the deck surface on the block and installed the cylinder head with new gasket and new head bolts. Torqued to specification in sequence in the specified time. Finished assembling upper engine components and timed engine correctly. This is much easier with the valve cover off so all timing marks can be seen at once. Reassembled engine. Topped off all fluids. Started vehicle and test drove. Brought back and topped off all fluids.
Because of the excessive cranking when engine was timed improperly, the starter failed. Tech replaced starter.
1. CLEAN AND WASH HEAD
2. 24 CUT SEATS AND GRIND VALVES
3. 12 RXR EXHASUT GUIDES AND REAM TO SIZE
4. PLANE HEAD 5. REMOVE BROKEN EXHAUST STUD AND INSTALL HELICOIL
We took the used head to the machine shop for cleaning/testing/machining. However, once they started cleaning the head, the machine shop recommended removing the prechambers from the used head to allow them to clean up the head surface. We picked up the head and brought it back to our shop. In order to remove the prechambers it was necessary to remove the glow plugs. The glow plugs on this engine get full of carbon and stick in place; if they are just forced out they will damage the threads in the aluminum head (it is the section of the glow plug below the threads that sticks in the bore, causing the glow bottom of the glow plug to not pull out when it is unthreaded). Since the aluminum head is softer than the material the glow plug is made out of, it damages the threads in the head when it attempts to push off of them when it is unthreaded. We did attempt to remove them by just unthreading them but they hardly turned. We ended up having to drill out the threaded portion of the glow plug. We then threaded the inside of the lower portion of the glow plug and pulled them out with a slide hammer. We then removed the prechambers and sent the head back to the machine shop to be finished.
The machine shop replaced 11 of the exhaust valves with new (Mercedes only sent 11 of the correct valve). The machine shop was able to find a good one from the two used sets that we had. They also replaced all valve seals, ground the intake valves, and machined the head. They removed a total of
.001 of an inch.
Once the head was returned to us we installed the prechambers. Measured and verified the projection into the cylinder head was within specification.
Reinstalled the glow plugs from the old cylinder head. Once the head was installed one of the exhaust studs pulled out of the head when we were torquing the exhaust manifold down. We had to drill out the remaining lower portion of the stud since it was broken off just below flush. It actually came out with minimal effort.

__________________
Ed
-1984 Mercedes 190D 2.2 5-speed gray market(bought@30,000 miles) (Sold back to original owner@170,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes E300DT (245,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes S500 Grand Edition (80,000 miles)

Update: Car has run great for the past 3,000 miles since the repairs. I was consistently getting 27 MPG prior to the repairs. I get 30 MPG now. I think it's mainly due to the new injectors and fuel system installed.
Oil level and coolant levels have maintained levels since repair. No leaks whatsoever.
I'm very satisfied with the work the mechanics did.

__________________
Ed
-1984 Mercedes 190D 2.2 5-speed gray market(bought@30,000 miles) (Sold back to original owner@170,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes E300DT (245,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes S500 Grand Edition (80,000 miles)

WOW.

A lot of work has been done to this car. You must really love it.

__________________
Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

I'm glad that it has worked out well for the OP, but I would have preferred that a good used engine be installed instead of all that work. Call me unreasonable, but I'd be willing to bet that the shop spent far more in parts and labor than they would have spent on a good used engine.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

I get what you're saying Maxbumpo. This route was considerably more expensive than any used engine I could have gotten. I'm happy that I have a virtually brand new head (minus one good, used exhaust valve), two new pistons and all cylinder walls were still in good shape. You could even see the machining from the factory on the inside of the cylinder walls.
There's no way to see what's inside a used engine unless you tear it completely apart and put it back together like was done to mine. The work I paid for (which was already planned) was $5k. I'm sure what the shop had to put in was another $8k minimum.

__________________
Ed
-1984 Mercedes 190D 2.2 5-speed gray market(bought@30,000 miles) (Sold back to original owner@170,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes E300DT (245,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes S500 Grand Edition (80,000 miles)

Thank you very much for the follow-up report! It is very helpful for future readers to know "the rest of the story".

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC