Fuel line rebuild suggestions?

[bruce.g.cameron]

I've been patching my fuel lines for some time now, with section of fuel-grade rubber. Has been a good fix, but I'm aware not the best. Has held up 5 years.

It is probably time for a full fuel line rebuild. I recall someone selling a kit that was easier to bend than regular lines - any suggestions for tackling this job?

While I'm in there, should I also do the brake lines? I have not had any brake leaks, but have had 4 fuel leaks over the years.

--------
1989 190D with 85k miles, in the family since new!

[Mxfrank]

I ordered the fuel line from Mercedes, expecting that it would be prebent. I received a very long cardboard tube from Germany, which contained an unbent fuel line. The compound bends at the ends are murder, especially if you're not working on a lift. What I did was to cut it in half and do just the rear. I joined it to the front section with a compression fitting.

You could probably do the same with the brakes, except that a compression union would be unacceptable. You'd have to do a flare union.

[bruce.g.cameron]

That sucks ref. factory setup. I'm sure it wasn't cheap either.

I could have sworn someone had a softer metal available for fuel lines?

[funola]

Originally Posted by bruce.g.cameron

That sucks ref. factory setup. I'm sure it wasn't cheap either.

I could have sworn someone had a softer metal available for fuel lines?

Copper or Aluminum?

[dieseldan44]

hey bruce -

5/16" aluminum fuel line is the way to go on this. 3/8" is what my WVO system uses as it's fuel lines. it's easily hand bendable.

you'll need
- 50' of 5/16" fuel line: Vibrant Performance Aluminum Hard Line | JEGS

- tubing cutter: JEGS Performance Products W700C: Mini Tubing Cutter | JEGS

- fuel injection style hose clamps (6 req, get 8) JEGS Performance Products 16046: Fuel Injection Hose Clamps Fits 5/16" I.D. Hose | JEGS

- i strongly recommend replacing all of your soft hose at this time to 5/16". it will all fit up easily to the metric engine bay components - but you want a tight fit to the aluminum tubing. for gripping to the aluminum tube, viton lined Continental Elite SAE 30R9 hoses are great. a bit pricey, but worth it in my experience

it'll last the life of the vehicle - enjoy!

[torsionbar]

tubing benders are cheap and readily available. Why risk kinking the brand new line, when you can bend it gently and smoothly with the correct tool?

[Maxbumpo]

I replaced the rusted out fuel lines, brake lines, and SLS hydraulic lines on a 123 wagon many years ago. I had access to a lift, and was removing the rear axle subframe to replace all of its bushings, and so had great access.

Bought all the lines from MB, same experience (lines are not pre-bent) so I bought tube benders. Removed the old lines and used them as templates, taped the new line to the old at one end, and bent the new lines to match old, then installed.

[dieseldan44]

i agree to use a tubing bender even on the Al line - but you don't need to. it's really easily hand workable.

if you don't have a lift installing the steel line is out of the question - there's not enough room to put it in place and use the bender.

if you give the OE steel line to any mechanic they can do it on their lift in an hour or two...

[bruce.g.cameron]

Thanks very much for the advice, will get to work!

[BWhitmore]

You might want to check out the fuel line called Ni-Copp. Made of nickel and copper the strength is equal to steel tubing but is bendable by hand.

[vwnate1]

There are very inex$pen$ive hand tubing benders that have grooves in them and your hands do the work, simple and cheap, easy to use .

The main thing is to GO SLOWLY so you don't put a bend in 90 degrees out because the last bend you did causes the long pipe to rotate in your hand....

I've done many using large sockets or bollards around the shop, even the light standard at the curb .

I'm old enough to remember when it was permissible to use compression fittings in brake pipes .

All the German brands sold short bits of pipe with the often cross threaded ends on them to use for quick repair .

IIRC that was out lawed in about 1967 .

I bet I still have some of those Dealer repair ends in my garage gathering dust .

[leathermang]

Originally Posted by vwnate1

.......I'm old enough to remember when it was permissible to use compression fittings in brake pipes ..... .

1. Yikes !!!

2. Does anyone use sand inside the tubes to make sure they do not kink ?

[vwnate1]

Flour or baking Soda maybe but never, EVER use sand or anything else abrasive ! .

[leathermang]

Originally Posted by vwnate1

Flour or baking Soda maybe but never, EVER use sand or anything else abrasive ! .

I doubt that flour or baking soda are ' non compressible ' in the way sand is.. thus would not trust them to prevent kinking or folding....

Perhaps you are thinking about sand blasting sand...which has sharp edges.. instead of beach sand ... which is rounded... although frankly I do not think either would hurt anything... sand inside a tube is pretty standard metal working procedure..

[funola]

The easiest and best option is Nylon. I replaced a forum member digieditny's rusty pinhole leaking supply line in less than 1 hour, without spilling any fuel. Left the old line in place and zip tied the Nylon line to it.

I'd consider Nylon to be superior to Aluminum for this application.