How much have I forgotten? - http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/317678-replaced-delivery-valve-seals-w124-300d-2.html

Maybe the internal passages of the element are blocked or deformed.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Do you know anything about the markings on the plunger barrel(#6) from the pic? Given i only have two delivery valves out right now the good one has a 645 marking on it and the bad one has 646 on it. Gonna take a third out tomorrow and see what that one says.

Wow, I'm afraid that you never should have removed the part you call #6, as you have probably taken the injection pump out of calibration. However, if it was already not working and maybe never going to work, then perhaps it doesn't really matter.

This was the impression I was under as well. If the IP was already junk, oh well, but if it was a good one, it may not be now...

I believe if you align the red encircled #2 lever a little to the left, you should get the proper fueling at idle to make the engine run smoothly at idle, if the pump was inserted correctly and is timed correctly. Also, insert the barrel into the pump with the slot in the barrel facing like it is in your picture (facing directly at you). There is a pin there that is not easily visible that will keep the barrel from rotating or otherwise moving. If the barrel is not inserted in its proper position it can cause problems to include not allowing delivery of fuel or even a run away engine. #1 looks like it could be moved up a little as well. #3 looks good. I used those lines on the pump directly above the red circle to set all of my levers.

If the part i labeled #6 that's being deemed taboo to remove is put right back in lined up with its pin then how is calibration disrupted. I was under the assumption that calibration is set by removing the side cover and cracking the torx screws loose allowing you to adjust orientation of each element individually. If that's the case i would assume the way they calibrate is bench test the pump and measure flow rate from each delievery valve and adjust each one left or right on the track to get fuel rates the same from all 6 delievery valves. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Removing the barrel will not change calibration, if it was set correctly in the first place and then put back in the same position with the slot locked by the pin. The information I gave was from my experience. If you follow those instructions, your pump should pump the fuel in an adequate amount to smooth idle on #2. Once on the road, that #2 lever would move forward enough to supply fuel to the engine. At idle currently, the supply is inadequate because the lever is closer to the shut off point than it is to the supplying fuel point. Now it is possible that the 87 (300 models) year pump and the 94 year (S350 models) pump barrels could cause problems if interchanged. However, most people never get to that point in their experimentation and discovery with these pumps to start changing and swapping internals of the pump. As to how the pumps are calibrated on the bench, you are probably correct as I think that is how it is done, as well. I don't have a bench tester.

Thanks, i'm going to mess with it some more and report back. Im only a week into ever messing with this specific pump.

Thought I would try to save you a few years of frustration.

You may be good, you've gone much further into the injection pump than I ever have. I wish you well in getting this back together and running.

My biggest concern is why did that plunger get out of alignment to begin with?

Have you been replacing the copper crush washer in each delivery valve, when you put them back together? A new copper washer is critical to a smooth idle. I realize that the first goal is to get fuel flow from all delivery valves, but after that you'll need to address this. In other applications, I've successfully re-used copper washers by heating them up to a nice orange glow with a torch and then letting them cool off. Clean off all the carbon really well before use. The heat / cool cycle will re-soften all the work hardened parts and allow the washer to make a fresh and good seal. This assumes there are no major scratches or other defects on either face of the washer. I've never tried this method with delivery valves, but in a trouble-shooting process it may save some time and $.

I got it running today! The delivery valve with the troublesome barrel started to work today. Runs good needs some new orings on the delievery valves that i disrupted. Just for future reference how does one go about timing the pump sprocket to the cam sprockets? I had the pump back out again and when i threw it back in i questioned myself on whether the sproket jumped a tooth or not muscling everything together. And what would consequences be if it had jumped a tooth? Thanks

Base timing is set by turning the crank to 15* ATDC #1 and using the turnbuckle to center the RIV tang in the port. Loosen the the bolts in front and one bolt in the back so the IP shifts as you turn the turnbuckle. Alternatively, lock the IP tang then install the IP with the crank at 15* ATDC #1.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Wow total brainfart i knew all that from when you told me the other day somehow in the moment i was thinking about what if the sprocket had come off the chain and i didnt put it back on right but i realized after i posted that its orientation doesnt matter only the 15adtc and tang dead center. Brain fart don't judge! Thanks Sixto for all your help.