Ive never adjusted the valves on 616 engines before, only on my 617 vehicles.

Notionally the 616 is easier, right? But there's something with the setup that somehow makes it more difficult to get off and put off to the side.

Any ideas what Im doing wrong? I searched a few old threads and there were a couple such questions, but none hit the mark exactly.

Baseline:



Its simple enough to remove the horizontal rod that goes to the firewall, plus a few linkages.



Eventually I pulled the whole setup, out of the plastic bushing, then removed the two 13mm bolts.



And ended up like this:

I essentially had to band all the vacuum hoses and the two throttle cables backwards, and try to tuck the whole mess under the fuel line:



Its been nearly a decade since Ive adjusted valves on a 617. But I dont recall it being so stiff and so tough to get all the stuff out of the way in order to get the VC off... And the 617 has more junk on the VC to remove.

I got the VC off, no problems there... But it just seems to me that I should have removed something different.

I think on the 617, you remove the whole vacuum miniswich assembly via bolts that hold the frame that has the black box, no? On the 616, the little white plastic switch on the VC is right over top of the 13mm bolt. That makes it tougher to remove that part. Doesnt change the issue of folding over the cables and vac hoses. Maybe I just dont remember correctly?

Under the VC:











Thanks!

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

I can't offer any wisdom on the 616, but you do remember correctly that on the 617 once the throttle links are all unclipped and the bolts out it's pretty easy to drape off to the side. I just leave the Bowden cable hooked up and lay it on top of the air cleaner.

Nice looking engine! What kind of oil/interval?

__________________
'82 300CD
"Pearl", the very first turbo diesel 123 coupe
Totaled 11/23/18, rebuild in progress.
'85 300TD, "Artemis".
'78 300D euro, "Ol' Red", mostly retired.
'85 300D, "Gandalf".

My 1980 617na is the same set up as that.

I just get frustrated and leave that whole bundle of stuff that hangs u up connected and flip the valve cover vertically towards the rear of the car.


You are very good at taking pictures btw

Think youre on BITOG as well...

Schaeffer's 9000 5w-40 in a two year OCI with a Mann filter.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Thank you!

Interesting thought, just flip it up.

Does it stress all the old vacuum connectors? Everything was so stiff on mine (and the vac connections are in great shape, and very tight on the hoses) it made it tough.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)