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#1
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1987 190D Turbo vacuum help needed
Hey guys, I've got a copy of the service manual but I can't seem to find anything about the transmission or vacuum system in it. I took the car to a transmission shop to have the automatic trans rebuilt (it was a mess, but he got it all fixed) but he says now there's no vacuum at the modulator. Without a diagram of how the system works I'm a bit lost as to what is supposed to do what. Is there a diagram for the vacuum system somewhere, or a common part that would fail? The door locks still work and the engine turns off, so something is getting vacuum.
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2010 Mercedes E350 4Matic - 77k miles 1986.5 Nissan D21 V6 4x4 - 276k miles 1987 Mercedes 190D 2.5 Turbo - 3??k miles 1983 Mercedes 300SD turbo parts car 2017 Honda CBR500R - 15k miles 2016 Suzuki GSX S1000 - 9k miles ![]() |
#2
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The guy at the transmission shop is a pretty nice guy, he said that he just decided he'd see if he could figure out what's going on. He checked vacuum at spots between the modulator and the pump until he got all the way back to the pump. He said there's no vacuum there at all. So now the question changes to: Is it possible to repair the vacuum pump, or do I just have to buy a new one?
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2010 Mercedes E350 4Matic - 77k miles 1986.5 Nissan D21 V6 4x4 - 276k miles 1987 Mercedes 190D 2.5 Turbo - 3??k miles 1983 Mercedes 300SD turbo parts car 2017 Honda CBR500R - 15k miles 2016 Suzuki GSX S1000 - 9k miles ![]() |
#3
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This is all I have. I don't know your car but perhaps there's a diagram on the link.
Vacuum Diagrams Do yourself a favor and learn to search. Many of the senior and more knowledgeable gentlemen here depend on you to help newbies find solutions. You won't be able to help if you can't navigate the paths provided. We all try to give back when we can and I'm glad to help even though at times I may be no help at all.
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84 300SD 85 380SE 83 528e 95 318ic |
#4
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I don’t understand… If the vacuum actuated shut off valve is working aren’t you getting vacuum?
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 157k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 175k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 144k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete 19 Honda CR-V EX 70k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#5
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Quote:
That's why I'm confused. The shut off has always worked, but I have had problems with no vacuum at things like the heater core water-switch thing (I can't remember what it's called at the moment). As for searching all I've been able to find is stuff for the 190E and then things like the 300. I use forums regularly so I know how to search. I get that there are people that don't, but I wouldn't post here if I could have found the information myself. When I pick the car up later I'll see if I can do some testing myself, unfortunately work my work schedule it's likely it'll just be sitting for a while until I have time to fiddle with it. Even if I do need to swap the pump I would like to have a diagram (why this isn't in the service manual boggles my mind) to assist in tracking down leaks that I'm sure are going to be present.
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2010 Mercedes E350 4Matic - 77k miles 1986.5 Nissan D21 V6 4x4 - 276k miles 1987 Mercedes 190D 2.5 Turbo - 3??k miles 1983 Mercedes 300SD turbo parts car 2017 Honda CBR500R - 15k miles 2016 Suzuki GSX S1000 - 9k miles ![]() |
#6
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I'm only going to leave this up for 24 hours. Download it and keep it somewhere safe:
https://www.coolcatcorp.com/190Restoration/190dservice.pdf |
#7
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Before I leave the thread:
The vacuum modulator is connected to the blue vacuum amplifier on the left side of the firewall. The other connections on the amplifier are a vacuum source, a feed to the VCV on the side of the injection pump, and a feed from the boost port on the side of the manifold. Check for a loose connection, especially on the VCV where it's tough to see. The shutoff and the brakes will usually work, even if there are large vacuum leaks elsewhere in the system. That part of the system is fed by a different port on the pump. Finally, the vacuum leak can be anywhere under the hood. What you want to do is start at the small vacuum port on the pump, and move forward through each branch checking for vacuum. Last edited by Mxfrank; 09-13-2018 at 08:33 PM. |
#8
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If your Vacuum Pump was not working your Power Brakes would also not be working. You would have extremely hard braking.
If the local auto parts store has the free tool rentals you can barrow a vacuum gauge and check for your self. You always wonder of the Kind Mechanic is actually going to hose you on something else. Better to check what you can yourself. A friend of mine was told She needed a rebuilt transmission. Once She told them she no Money they lost interest. 5 years later the Transmission was still good but the Car got totaled in an accident.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#9
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Frank, seriously, you are my favorite. Seems like every time I have question you have some life saving advice.
After I got the car home last night from the trans shop (HOLY CRAP what a difference - drives like a dream compared to how it used to) I did a bit of testing. The vacuum pump itself is fine, the thing that he was referring to as the pump I'm pretty sure was actually the shutoff valve. Now that I have this flipping excellent diagram, I'm going to print it off and go through every one of these hoses/connections, highlight them as I verify that they're good. Thanks again!
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2010 Mercedes E350 4Matic - 77k miles 1986.5 Nissan D21 V6 4x4 - 276k miles 1987 Mercedes 190D 2.5 Turbo - 3??k miles 1983 Mercedes 300SD turbo parts car 2017 Honda CBR500R - 15k miles 2016 Suzuki GSX S1000 - 9k miles ![]() |
#10
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Quote:
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#11
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I've made a large collection of 201 info available for download. It'll only be up for a couple of days, I can't spare the disk space or bandwidth. So take what you need and store it somewhere safe:
https://www.coolcatcorp.com/190Restoration/Download |
#12
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![]() Quote:
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#13
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Oh nice, the image quality on that one is excellent! So far I know there is a vacuum leak in the EGR system, which I'm planning to just remove completely.
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2010 Mercedes E350 4Matic - 77k miles 1986.5 Nissan D21 V6 4x4 - 276k miles 1987 Mercedes 190D 2.5 Turbo - 3??k miles 1983 Mercedes 300SD turbo parts car 2017 Honda CBR500R - 15k miles 2016 Suzuki GSX S1000 - 9k miles ![]() |
#14
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For anyone else searching for this later, here is the english translation of Dr. S's document:
Fig 07 1/6 Vacuum Line Layout 1. Injection pump 2. Governor 6. Vacuum shut off unit 9. Vacuum reservoir on left front wheel housing behind plastic ??? 60 EGR valve 61a Orifice 61b Orifice 62 Filter 62a Filter 65 Vacuum control valve 67 Vacuum pump 72 Vacuum damper 103 Aneroid compensator (ALDA) 123 Vacuum amplifier 137 Turbocharger 138 Intake manifold 140 Brake booster check valve Y22 Electro-magnetic actuator (idle speed) Y29 Vacuum amplifier switch-over valve automatic transmission Y30 Engine overload protection switch-over valve Y31/1 EGR valve vacuum transducer a vent line to passenger compartment b key engine stop c other consumers d vacuum modulator valve automatic transmission e brake booster Connections on vacuum amplifier and vacuum transducer PRE Boost pressure from aneroid compensator (ALDA) TRA To vacuum modulator valve, automatic transmission VAC Vacuum from vacuum pump VCV To vacuum control valve ATM Vent line to passenger compartment OUT To EGR valve sw – black bl – blue br – brown gr – grey vi – purple rt – red ws - white
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2010 Mercedes E350 4Matic - 77k miles 1986.5 Nissan D21 V6 4x4 - 276k miles 1987 Mercedes 190D 2.5 Turbo - 3??k miles 1983 Mercedes 300SD turbo parts car 2017 Honda CBR500R - 15k miles 2016 Suzuki GSX S1000 - 9k miles ![]() |
#15
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Also, I finally got around to getting a vacuum testing kit and tested my vacuum pump last night. It's working fine and I confirmed there are no leaks on the brake booster side. The EGR side of things is all disconnected, so I've started replacing bits of rubber hose in the other parts of the vacuum system.
On the lines marked a or "vent line to passenger compartment", an air tight seal is not required here, as it's just a vent and not an actual vacuum, correct?
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2010 Mercedes E350 4Matic - 77k miles 1986.5 Nissan D21 V6 4x4 - 276k miles 1987 Mercedes 190D 2.5 Turbo - 3??k miles 1983 Mercedes 300SD turbo parts car 2017 Honda CBR500R - 15k miles 2016 Suzuki GSX S1000 - 9k miles ![]() |
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