As the title says.......

After finding a bad power steering pump over the weekend I decided to look at replacing the brakes while the car is off the road waiting for the new pump and belts.

After digging into the brakes, I found two calipers leaking fairly decently, one sticking caliper, and one with the piston partially cocked in the bore. These look like the original calipers, so I an biting the bullet and replacing all four along with the rubber brake hoses and parking brake shoes.

So, what started out as a simple oil change and tire rotation has turned into a SPENDY, but needed maintenance evolution.

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)

Yup, nothing like good old mission creep when you work on these older cars. I feel for ya!

Going all the way is the best method of dealing with an old braking system. It's the old "weakest link" syndrome if you try to half-arse it otherwise.

If you don't already do it, a yearly flush of the brake fluid is a good preventative measure.

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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Truth is, you love it. Otherwise you'd drive a Camry.

Kitting the calipers can save some dollars. Especially in Canada. Remans are not too expensive in the states fortunately.

Though really in the overall picture. Compared to the the cost of owning some cars this is small potatoes. Remember to do the brake hoses if you think they are due as well. Almost anything you can do at home is almost pennies on the dollar versus dealing with problems on the road while away from home.

I find it easy to spend other peoples money as well. I think the wife taught me that one.

Actually it also is good for the mind to know you have reconditioned a very old brake system under you as well. .

I am currently waiting for a piston retractor for the rear calipers to arrive in the mail. They caliper pistons have to be rotated as they are compressed on my Volkswagon.

Unfortunatly the tool I need is not all that common. Most piston retraction kits do not have the right tool for Volkswagon. If I order in the single adapter that fits the volkswagon brake pistons. It is about the same price as the 22 piece set on Amazon for a little over 20.00 American delivered.

There are not many deals out there today. Still if one thinks they will be doing rear brakes on more modern cars. This kit with the good reviews is far better than the average loaner kits. I also do not expect thatcurrent price to hold. Works out to about a dollar a piece if you include the good plastic storage container.

Also remember some cars now have to electronically have their computors set into service mode before doing brake work. Started with some brands in 2008.

I think that’s true for MB models with SBC as early as 2003.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon

Sad evolution of braking systems. At least people should check if it is required before doing brakes on their newer cars. Not so new either with the correction posted.

Brake work is a large component of car service today. Unfortunatly the commercial shops are really overcharging to pay their bills. Doing it yourself enables lower costs for the parts usually as well. For the same quality of parts.

Everyone has to make a living. I have no issue with that. At the same time some garage bills seem to go well beyond that.

Fortunately there are plenty of videos on how to do them properly yourself. It is not rocket science. At the same time not all the detail items are intuitive.

Expensive? ha! You're just getting started


A sorted pre 95 MB is a wealthy mans car. Have you tried inspecting the caliper bores and pistons to see if they are truly finished?

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Rindfleischetikettierungsüberwachungsaufgabenübertragungsgesetz

Yep, the bores look pretty worn, and two of them have some scratching and pitting.

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)

A Mercedes-Benz is still, basically, a car. It shares similar components and assemblies with many other cars varying only in details. Those that obsess over allowing only "Mercedes trained" mechanics touch their cars are foolish I think. There is no mysterious MB karma to most jobs. Exhaust, brakes, suspension/steering and other systems can be adequately repaired or serviced by any professional that takes pride in their work.

Many of us on this forum do the simpler servicing and repair jobs ourselves. Except for the few who are pro/retired MB mechanics with an extensive tool collection the jobs requiring a lift or other pro shop-only tools we sometimes find ourselves faced with can be a job too difficult to attempt. In those cases, many head for the MB dealer for help. My friends, I'm here to tell you that is seldom to never necessary and as some have found it is counter-productive.

Those of us with old cars often find the dealer will offer an outrageous price estimate for a seemingly common repair. I think that the dealerships don't want to repair the old cars and the estimated cost is intended to discourage. They often don't have the experienced old techs, parts and sometimes the tools. They don't want to tie up a lift, the space and a tech to service our old junk.

In the eight years I have owned my 1983 300CD daily driver, I have never gone to a dealer for repair or parts. Those jobs I don't want to tackle (basically anything requiring me to lie on my back under the car for a long time) I take to a trusted independent general repair shop with whom I have developed a working relationship over many years.

My newer Benz, a 2008 E320 that is my wife's ride, goes to the Benz dealer we bought it from. We are blessed with a competent, honest dealer shop that has never overcharged or tried to upsell us for work not needed.

To summarize this overlong post. my advice is to find a good independent shop and develop a working relationship with them. Don't obsess over "MB-trained" and don't worry if you see a Ford on the next lift.

I'm still waiting for the results of the $ 3,800 AC repair listed in post 11 and copied here.

I hope you're not holding your breath .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Only to avoid the stench of unsubstantiated $ 3,800 claims.

Well, we are pushing 2 1/2 months since strelnik posted a tale of how someone took their 1980 240D into a dealer with weak AC , left with a $ 3,800 bill ( see post 11 ) and then supposedly went to the state's Bureau of Automotive Regulation.

Strelnik stated he would have told the dealer that they did work not required and requested but has offered zero proof the dealer did work not required / requested. I want to know how strelnik is so sure the work was not needed , requested and the AC bill was actually $ 3,800.

So far strelnik has not responded to my posts asking for more details to substantiate the the claim. I call bs since he nor the owner have made any attempt to follow through.

Welp, I have to replace the alterenator in my 300SDL. The belt tensioner assembly, shut of valve, and remove a broken extractor in my E300. I have to re tap because I'm sure the threads are ruined.

It's getting extremely expensive for me.

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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

Just bite the bullet and pay two ATE calipers and install them with fresh hoses, brake pads,discs and fluid. Most of the w123 calipers has lived way over the life of any car in that Era.