Ha.

[Clemson88]

I bought a 91 SE w126 dash (blue) with no cracks and perfect zebrano wood, all the door cards in very nice condition other than faded a bit with good wood trim on them, A,B and C pillars in excellent shape, all for working regulators with working motors, and anything I want beneath the dash, basically all the interior trim including the Climate Control module, cruse module, ignition switch w/key air box and all connections and the console for 150 bucks.

I have my 85 W126 interior finished including seats so I'm in the market for a nice w126 body with a good drive train to do this all again.

I'm getting good with prep and paint.

[Stretch]

Sounds like you need to take some pictures of these treasures when they're fitted

[vwnate1]

California craigslist, they're scrapping these cars at a scary rate and most need only paint and interior repairs due to the sun .

Buy one and drive it home, have fun .

[Clemson88]

I'm not healthy or rich enough to go shopping in California.

[Clemson88]

Originally Posted by Stretch

Sounds like you need to take some pictures of these treasures when they're fitted

The vinyl and leather is all restored including the blue dash which I stripped and painted black. It is perfect. I am not satisfied with the wood trim. I used the USC two part mix in a can and got no build from it.

Before I put the cluster back I'm going to pull all the wood, strip it and redo the finish. I really want to use the Imron 500s clear so I can shoot four or five coats then cut and buff it all.

The problem is the 192s activator being old. According to what folks say the activator's shelf life is only a year and after opening the can and letting the gas preservative escape it's a lot shorter.

I've looked at other clear finishes but I don't know what to do. I found out my paint supplier knows about as much about wood finish as me.

Here's a couple shots.

[Stretch]

Instead of stripping the varnish I'd try flattening with 600 and then 800 grit and then spraying a clear coat over the old varnish (so long as it isn't cracked)

Good work in progress shots - looks like you're putting in a lot of effort - I'm sure it will be worth it once it is done

[Clemson88]

Originally Posted by Stretch

Instead of stripping the varnish I'd try flattening with 600 and then 800 grit and then spraying a clear coat over the old varnish (so long as it isn't cracked)

Good work in progress shots - looks like you're putting in a lot of effort - I'm sure it will be worth it once it is done

The interior trim is finished now but all that wood is coming off in lieu of the replacements from the 91 SE. That was my first try at refinishing wood and I didn't satisfy myself that it's the best I can do. The learning curve has been steep on this entire project including engine/transmission changing, wiring and interior handling.

From my perspective, if a finish isn't cracked yet it won't be long before it does. The old finish is discolored too. It all looks as if they added a tint to the finish. I'm not sure they didn't.

The old finish can't be salvaged, some of it is cracked. Stripping, staining is easy, I just need the right clear to spray on.

but I'm doing my homework on finishes and if I can't be comfortable with the Imron 500s I may try a quart of the Interlux YVA-950KITQ Perfection Plus. It has great reviews on marine wood so it should last the life of the car.

I'd appreciate input on that if anyone has experience with it.

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by Clemson88

The interior trim is finished now but all that wood is coming off in lieu of the replacements from the 91 SE. That was my first try at refinishing wood and I didn't satisfy myself that it's the best I can do. The learning curve has been steep on this entire project including engine/transmission changing, wiring and interior handling.

From my perspective, if a finish isn't cracked yet it won't be long before it does. The old finish is discolored too. It all looks as if they added a tint to the finish. I'm not sure they didn't.

The old finish can't be salvaged, some of it is cracked. Stripping, staining is easy, I just need the right clear to spray on.

but I'm doing my homework on finishes and if I can't be comfortable with the Imron 500s I may try a quart of the Interlux YVA-950KITQ Perfection Plus. It has great reviews on marine wood so it should last the life of the car.

I'd appreciate input on that if anyone has experience with it.

I can't comment on American market products - I haven't a clue what you'd be able to get where you are.


Wild guess: Rustoleum seems to be world wide =>


https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001W03PR2/ref=psdc_1938798031_t3_B000TRONAM


There's also this tips and tricks page that looks OK


https://www.familyhandyman.com/woodworking/staining-wood/spray-finishing-on-wood/view-all/


Hope that helps

[Clemson88]

I will use the link to the handyman tips. Thank you, sir.

[Stretch]

I'm looking forward to the results (hint hint)

[barry12345]

There is a catalysed laquer with a pre added hardner. You choose the amount of gloss you want from flat to ultra shiney by degrees when buying. I use it to spray kitchen cupboards.


It is really tough and is what you get on factory wooden kitchen tables as a finish today. Much harder to remove with paint strippers. It also has no tendency to yellow or go gummy with time. The lifespan of the product in the can is only three months at best.

The retailer adds the activator at the time of sale. Technically it is a restricted product. I buy it in gallons but might be available in lesser quantities or find someone to spray your wood that has it after you prep it. Takes very little material to do the average cars wood.

My misteak on the first set of car wood was not letting the wood dry out well enough before spraying. After stripping.

There are also ultra gloss activators for car clear coats that may also do well in this application.

[Clemson88]

I believe the Interlux is going to work out for me. I sprayed about a gal and half of SEM Colorcoat on the vinyl and about a qt of SEM Surecoat on leather in this car with an HPLV.

I ordered the Interlux YVA-950KITQ Perfection Plus Yacht Varnish Quart. If it doesn't work to suit me I'll try something else. I won't mix the entire quart to start. I'll start with a four oz mix and a piece of scrap. I can get 2-4 coats on it before the pot life is ended.

If it doesn't cut and buff to suit me I'll give it to a friend if I can't resell it and try something else. I have plenty of spare trim parts to play with.

I should have rolled the dice on the Imron 500s and activator. I might be stuck with a $150 can of activator if the life of the activator has expired. Nobody seems to be able to say what the shelf life is and I think Dupont quit making the stuff when Axalta bought them out.

It's a crap shoot either way.

[strelnik]

Originally Posted by vwnate1

California craigslist, they're scrapping these cars at a scary rate and most need only paint and interior repairs due to the sun .

Buy one and drive it home, have fun .

When I go out to SOCAL, I should look for one

[vwnate1]

Yes, you should .

Look in the S.F. Bay area, lots of them and rich folks dislike anything old .

If you saw the cars I pick parts from you'd cry .

I grew up in snow & rust country so I have appreciation for good solid vehicles that are IMO, better than new vehicles and need only some deferred maintenance performed to be road ready for decades more service .

[Clemson88]

I'm going to finish this project with the makings of two very nice gray interiors. I plan to mix and match the best for my car but what remains will be excellent, not perfect but so much better than anything that hasn't been refinished.