Sheared bolt head off OM606 intake manifold, now what? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Father Of Giants · #1 12-21-2018, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MCallahan

Beware the spiral EZouts. They usually wedge in and tighten the broken bolt even worse thsn it is. See if you can find a square EZout. They work 1000 times better.

Another thing worth having in any shop is a set of left hand drills. You can often get the broken bolt out just with the left hand drill, before even resorting to the EZouts. Trick is to step drill, starting with a very small one. If that one doesn't back it out when it breaks through the bottom, go up one size and try again. Spray some WD-40, Kroil, or other penetrating oil in the hole now, too. If that one doesn't grab and back it out, then repeat until you are about 60% or so the diameter of the bolt and then use the EZout.

BTW, I am a machinist at a pump shop and remove broken bolts almost daily from cast iron, stainless. bronze and aluminum parts.

I am all ears, I'm going to lowes tomorrow to buy some left hand drill bits, an air drill, and a ceter punch. Thanks for the tip.

Also can I patch my SOV for a temporary fix? I'm sure my SOV is cracked.

jake12tech · #2 12-21-2018, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Father Of Giants

I am all ears, I'm going to lowes tomorrow to buy some left hand drill bits, an air drill, and a ceter punch. Thanks for the tip.

Also can I patch my SOV for a temporary fix? I'm sure my SOV is cracked.

No way to patch the SOV. It’s plastic. Are you sure the delivery valves aren’t leaking on it making you think it’s cracked? Spray everything down with break clean start it and see where it leaks.

Why an air drill? Not a battery operated? Get a Makita 12v. Also take one of the bolts to the hardware store and find the same size. I got my intake manifold bolts from Home Depot but I know Lowe’s has ones that work.

Father Of Giants · #3 12-21-2018, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jake12tech

No way to patch the SOV. It’s plastic. Are you sure the delivery valves aren’t leaking on it making you think it’s cracked? Spray everything down with break clean start it and see where it leaks.

Why an air drill? Not a battery operated? Get a Makita 12v. Also take one of the bolts to the hardware store and find the same size. I got my intake manifold bolts from Home Depot but I know Lowe’s has ones that work.

Well, I'm broke, the Makita drill is NICE but it's $100 and all I have is $100 at the moment.The Husky air drill is basically $50.

You know what, I'll put everything back together and buy it next paycheck. No need to bleed out.

treetops · #4 12-23-2018, 04:47 PM

I must be missing something, nuts and bolts on a 606 manifold? If you sheared the head off the bolt why couldn't you pull the manifold and then use vicegrips on the threaded shaft left behind. If there's still some 'head' left on the bolt can you drill/cut it off and then pull the Manifold?

You can swap out the SOV leaving the manifold in place by moving the washer bottle out the way. Not as roomy as with the manifold out, but can be done. Please be careful of the torx bolts on the SOV....I stripped one of them over a year ago, which has delayed my SOV replacement for a long while.

It was a PITA to get that bolt out of the SOV. I finally figured out to drill the head slightly larger/deeper than the speed out's diameter I bought from the Orange Box.

Clean the torx bolts with brushes and brake cleaner so you get a great grip on it with the T27. Those bolts are not made of very strong metal and who knows how badly they maybe over torqued from prior service.

Father Of Giants · #5 12-23-2018, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by treetops

I must be missing something, nuts and bolts on a 606 manifold? If you sheared the head off the bolt why couldn't you pull the manifold and then use vicegrips on the threaded shaft left behind. If there's still some 'head' left on the bolt can you drill/cut it off and then pull the Manifold?

You can swap out the SOV leaving the manifold in place by moving the washer bottle out the way. Not as roomy as with the manifold out, but can be done. Please be careful of the torx bolts on the SOV....I stripped one of them over a year ago, which has delayed my SOV replacement for a long while.

It was a PITA to get that bolt out of the SOV. I finally figured out to drill the head slightly larger/deeper than the speed out's diameter I bought from the Orange Box.

Clean the torx bolts with brushes and brake cleaner so you get a great grip on it with the T27. Those bolts are not made of very strong metal and who knows how badly they maybe over torqued from prior service.

I took all of the bolts off and it wouldn't budge, did I miss any? Also it's the very last nut, the firewall and the oil filter housing are in the way.

treetops · #6 12-23-2018, 05:40 PM

There is the bolt underneath the manifold that fixes the EGR tube to a support, If that's not off, then no the manifold wont move. You can only get that one from underneath the car with about 18" of 1/4' drive socket extensions. Ive, umm, lost mine somewhere along the way.

ESchwab · #7 12-24-2018, 03:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by treetops

There is the bolt underneath the manifold that fixes the EGR tube to a support, If that's not off, then no the manifold wont move. You can only get that one from underneath the car with about 18" of 1/4' drive socket extensions. Ive, umm, lost mine somewhere along the way.

There are two bolts. The one that you mention which is a 10mm on my car -- a '98 e300. There is also a bolt that holds a metal O clamp that you access from above. It has a 6mm (possibly 8mm) head. It is quite near the bolt that you get from underneath.