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  #1  
Old 07-29-2019, 12:01 AM
Actros617's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,143
OM603 cylinder head removal need some guidance

So I know there's a lot of threads on OM603 removal I did a lot of search but i could not find an answer to my question, though ti may be a stupid question but I'm a little nervous about doing this job, it ain't my first rodeo on fixing cars as my last major MAJOR repair involved half-way tearing apart a OM648 just to replaced 2 oil cooler seals, however i never did a head gasket job before so this will be my first. The cylinder head is coming off is because I suspect that the head gasket has failed and is slowly leaking coolant into the engine oil, had a low coolant warning appear when the reservoir was full 2 weeks ago with no visible leaks, has not make milkshake of my engine oil yet however there a a faint sweet smell in the oil and the oil seems to act strange on the oil dipstick (ie slides off easily).

So this the state of the engine at the moment, i've taken out all the parts that are attached or in the way of the cylinder head (except for the diesel heater line thing attached to the head) injector lines, exhaust manifold with turbo, intake manifold fuel filter, radiator shroud and fan.



Now that i'm at this point I did ran into some self inflicting thought conflict that is giving me a mechanics block (aka writers block), and here's some my question

1.Timing chain tensioner on the left of the engine, Does it need to be remove? It looks like it's attached to the cylinder head so my logic yes on removing it, but FSM did not make one mention of removing such thing. And if it needs to be removed the timing chain tensioner must it be before or after removing the cam sprocket?



2.So I lined up my timing up according to the FSM, which the crank had to be at OT (1# & TDC) and the cam shaft on cylinder 1 has to line up to the cam bearing cap, however I noticed that my crankshaft is off 3 degree to my camshaft. It's unknown if engine was serviced prior, the seller that i bought from did say (taken with a grain of sand) the previous owner to him did work on this engine, but this poses a concern that the engine may have a stretched timing chain is the only logical conclusion on why the engine was off timed by 3 degree, or maybe engine had work done an was half-baked job. Should I just keep the chain in and retime the engine, the chain appears to be very tight, with no slack whatsoever. But see pictures for yourself and what do you think.

//Camshaft// (Image was inked for better visual)


\\Crankshaft\\ (Image was inked for better visual)


3.Camshaft bolt looks like a 12 point bolt pattern but im not sure what size socket I need. And also i need a recommendation on a camshaft holder.



Attached Thumbnails
OM603 cylinder head removal need some guidance-img_2699.jpg   OM603 cylinder head removal need some guidance-inkedimg_2713_li.jpg   OM603 cylinder head removal need some guidance-inkedimg_2711_li.jpg   OM603 cylinder head removal need some guidance-inkedimg_2703_li.jpg   OM603 cylinder head removal need some guidance-img_2700.jpg  

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Current Garage
2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress
1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs
2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver
1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car
1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap??

Sold
1987 300SDL 200K+
1994 S320 181K mi
2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi
1999 S420 130K mi
1980 240D 360k mi
15+ Others that has come, stay and gone

GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
1995 E320 SE 220k mi
1984 300SD 350k mi

Last edited by Actros617; 07-29-2019 at 12:14 AM.
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  #2  
Old 07-29-2019, 12:05 AM
Actros617's Avatar
Ich fahre dieseltypen
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,143
Continued....

4. I noticed on the intake side port on cylinder #5 has some strange thing going on it appears that there is some oily residue splattered around the port as oppose to the other ports that has even soot build around. Question is could a leaking valve stem seal cause this? Or is it a result of a leaky valve or off timing may be causing some backflow (regugration)?

Cylinder #5 intake port (problem intake port)


All other Cylinder intake port (similar approximation)


Other then that I think its a straight forward job but these hurdles are make it a little more nerve wrecking as I want to have no mistakes, your input will be gladly appreciated
Attached Thumbnails
OM603 cylinder head removal need some guidance-img_2729.jpg   OM603 cylinder head removal need some guidance-img_2731.jpg  
__________________
Current Garage
2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress
1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs
2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver
1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car
1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap??

Sold
1987 300SDL 200K+
1994 S320 181K mi
2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi
1999 S420 130K mi
1980 240D 360k mi
15+ Others that has come, stay and gone

GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
1995 E320 SE 220k mi
1984 300SD 350k mi
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  #3  
Old 07-29-2019, 02:14 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 63
Before you go any further you'll want to make sure the IP doesn't move. You can buy the IP locking pin which is installed on the side of the IP or remove the vacuum pump. If you skip that step the vacuum pump will cause the chain to move and possibly skip timing. You will need to remove the tensioner on the head first to remove the cam sprocket. But first zip tie the chain to the cam gear so once again when you reinstall the timing won't be off.

As for the timing looking off. Try rotating the engine again and go really slow when your coming up on top dead center. Moving just a little will make it look off. Also only rotate clockwise and never counter clockwise or the slack in the chain will make the timing look off.
The chain could be off a tooth or stretched but I'd rotate it again first just to be certain that wasn't the issue.
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Old 07-29-2019, 12:50 PM
Actros617's Avatar
Ich fahre dieseltypen
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,143
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonW124 View Post
Before you go any further you'll want to make sure the IP doesn't move. You can buy the IP locking pin which is installed on the side of the IP or remove the vacuum pump. If you skip that step the vacuum pump will cause the chain to move and possibly skip timing.
I think removing the vacuum pump would be a better choice because to lock the ip pump the crank has to be at ATDC 15*, im not certain that i would leave the cam and crank at ATDC 15* to remove the chain off the cam sprocket.

If i'm going to remove the vacuum pump do you have to set the crank to a specific position to remove it? I read somewhere there's a the vacuum uses roller cam that compresses a spring, and if its not set properly it can damage the housing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JonW124 View Post
As for the timing looking off. Try rotating the engine again and go really slow when your coming up on top dead center. Moving just a little will make it look off. Also only rotate clockwise and never counter clockwise or the slack in the chain will make the timing look off.
The chain could be off a tooth or stretched but I'd rotate it again first just to be certain that wasn't the issue.
Ok so i turned my engine a few rotations and both camshaft and crank are now aligned at TDC so its both timed correctly.

Thank you i really appreciate your time and advice.
__________________
Current Garage
2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress
1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs
2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver
1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car
1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap??

Sold
1987 300SDL 200K+
1994 S320 181K mi
2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi
1999 S420 130K mi
1980 240D 360k mi
15+ Others that has come, stay and gone

GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
1995 E320 SE 220k mi
1984 300SD 350k mi
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  #5  
Old 07-29-2019, 09:22 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 63
Om603

Quote:
Originally Posted by Actros617 View Post
I think removing the vacuum pump would be a better choice because to lock the ip pump the crank has to be at ATDC 15*, im not certain that i would leave the cam and crank at ATDC 15* to remove the chain off the cam sprocket.

If i'm going to remove the vacuum pump do you have to set the crank to a specific position to remove it? I read somewhere there's a the vacuum uses roller cam that compresses a spring, and if its not set properly it can damage the housing.




Ok so i turned my engine a few rotations and both camshaft and crank are now aligned at TDC so its both timed correctly.

Thank you i really appreciate your time and advice.

You are correct about the timing being off with the IP locking tool. It was late when I wrote that. Removing the vacuum pump is what I've done when replacing the head. That way there is no pressure from the vacuum pump to possibly have the chain move.

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