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#1
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Has anyone used Castrol Edge?
I only found one post on the forum and it was by one guy who said his winter starts were easier with Castrol Edge than Mobile One.
I saw a little display at the auto parts store showing the difference in Castrol Edge to other oil and it was impressive. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7Tc-YkJRxk (skip to the 2:50 mark on this video) and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3GJND4jB2I and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dwt5wRrL0yk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGmmw766wwM Last edited by jbach36; 07-29-2019 at 03:30 PM. |
#2
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Castrol Magnatec oil is my choice. But i live in a cooler country than you .
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#3
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Any name brand oil that meets spec is fine. If the Castrol meets spec, rock on. Maybe get something that's thinner when cold for cold starts, if you're in the south of the USA then that's likely not an concern. Just get something that meets spec.
I see testimonials about oil all the time and almost universally they're useless. "My car LOVES brand XYZ oil!" based on nothing more than someone's engine failing to boat anchor itself after an oil change. This is exactly the result anyone would have gotten with any oil that meets spec. Oil analysis from independent labs shows no functional difference between the oil brands. Just get whatever meets spec. (There was the one person who got a 5mpg difference after moving to a thicker oil. That's a useful datum for sure, but unsurprising.) There are a LOT of "right" ways to do this. My girlfriend just got a '13 Beetle TDI, requires VW 507.00 oil. That one was kind of a pain to run down, but in the end even the local Napa carries Liquil Moly that meets spec, or Amazon has Mobil 1 ESP.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#4
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I've run Castrol Edge 5W-20 in both of my Hondas with excellent success. They seem to run cleaner and go longer on an oil change than with Mobil 1. Personal preferences and all, but I'd think any oil that you like and is suitable for the engine is the "correct" oil for you.
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Current stable: 1995 E320 157K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 125K (SLoL) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) Gone and wanting to forget: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz] |
#5
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Here's a few links
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#6
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And yet the engines achieve full life span with the factory oil.............
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#7
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It's actually hard to find bad oil, just run whatever.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#8
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I run shell helix hx7 diesel or castrol 5w40 diesel
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#9
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Liquimoly!
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#10
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Use it and love it!
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1999 Mercedes E300TD daily driver sold at 238K miles 106K miles were mine, rust worm got it :-( 2006 Mercedes CDI new daily driver! 56,000 miles May 2016 now 85,625 Apr 2018 and Apr 2019 101,000 miles Apr 2020 109,875. March 2024 135,250, Dec 2024 145,000 miles |
#11
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Change frequency may be too long by some car manufacturers. I noticed instantly that the engine was quieter after an oil change at the recommended interval. The engine is famous for cam issues. Same oil actually Castrol 5-40 edge synthetic as last time.
A mechanic I respect told me he does not see the failures on his customers cars with those engines. If the oil is changed at a little over half the recommendation. The engine does not burn base oil and was full on the dipstick before I changed it. I did not imagine the reduction in noise at idle. I will be changing he oil more frequently. Technically it could have been a differance between production batches of the Castrol edge. Between what the mechanic told me and what I heard I do not feel there is much choice in what to do. I may not change the oil filter with each change. If I cut the change frequency into half though. I had thought the engine was slowly getting more noise when I pulled up to a stop or just listening to the idle with the hood up. All I am certain of is it is quieter since I changed the oil at 6 thousand miles. Eacjh injector is charged up by a cam lobe to 26 thousand pounds and fired electronically. They had issues with the cams and stopped selling this diesel Volkswagon engine in 2007 totally. There were no 2007 volkswagon diesels sold in north America. The new common rail engine was introduced in 2008. With a high pressure fuel pump made of aluminium that shreds metal into the fuel system. That is really costly to deal with. My engine requires an earlier belt change frequency because of the excess cam loading. Yes it also requires a certain oil. When using it the cam failures still occur. If my mechanic friend is right in what his experience indicates. It would have been typical of Volkswagon to have known this and not sent letters or advisories to their service departments or customers. |
#12
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Oil is oil is oil... As long as u change on time, it's gonna be fine whatever you use. IMO LOL
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#13
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We use M1 0w40 . It is MB approved, cheap at WM and easy to find.
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-- Chris '95 E300, 216k miles, Silver Surfer '05 E320 CDI, 138k miles '07 S550 4matic, 69k miles Gone but not forgotten: '76 300D, 350k miles?, SOLD in 1995 ![]() '75 240D, 300k miles, SOLD in 1991 |
#14
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Most engines do not seem oil sensitive. In the Volkswagon engine I have they squeezed a narrow cam lobe in to deal with each injector. Then asked it to pump up each injector to 26 thousand pounds pressure. The oil cushion between that narrow cam lobe and the injector is seriously oil film viscosity dependent. If they had made it work long term they nay have not gone common rail.
The mechanic that advised me s not an average mechanic. They build race engines and have a full blown equipped machine shop as well to rebuild engines. He also stated that his customers that follow his suggestions. On that engine are not seeing the cam failures and most of them are well past 200K miles. You really get to see some pretty rare cars in their shop. I once asked him if there was a brand they did not repair. He quoted if it has an internal combustion engine we do them. If he is right it shows a good example of Vplkswagons corporate policy. Volkswagon dealers charges to deal with a failed cam are very high. Several thousand dollars. You can buy an aftermarket cam that is harder for about a thousand dollars. You will also need new lifters every time. If you drive it with a bad cam too long you will also need a new head. Rubber timing belt change remains at every 80K miles. On the 2005 and 2006 Volkswagon 4 cylinder diesels only. What I am going to do. I saved the oil I drained. I am going to do my own viscosity test at operating temperature with an old and new oil sample. If it shows the old oil is thinner it could be very interesting. If the test is positive it does not mean the edge oil is bad. More likely instead It would prove this engine is far too sensitive to oil viscosity in comparison to other engines. The test may show nothing.. Like many oils today they claim a platinum friction reducer. It may lose effectiveness with miles. |
#15
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I moved into my home march 2000. Oil was 69 cent's a quart at advance auto.
Now look at price's,I buy what's on sale 5w40 syn. diesel rated in winter, 15w40 diesel rated oil in summer. Newer oils,don't have the good stuff that use to be in 1970's oils.Rotella, for my needs,plus one gallon size still, 5 qts, to dang heavy for old hands.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt |
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