Hello everyone,


Bought new front sway bar bushings and was trying to figure out how to do this job.





Is it really as easy as removing the battery and loosening the booster and putting new ones on? or do i need to remove the UCA bolt and bushings?


Also should car the be on jack stands with tires hanging or supported similar to being on the ground?


just looking for this input as the FSM only mentions to remove the entire assembly.



thanks everyone!


PS seems peachparts shows a lot of genuine MB parts not available. I work at the corp office and can check qty, many that they show NLA are actually available.

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1978 300D

Start soaking the area in your favorite penetrating Oil so the Nuts don't do not snap off the little studs.

I did it too long ago to remember the details but I do remember I ended up doing rust repair down there. So instructions for the minimum you need to remove and re-install might not be as help full as you think.

To my best memory I did remove the brake booster. But, that could have been do deal with the rust issue.

When you put the Nuts on use some never-seize type compound so they don't rust up again.

I went out and looked. On mine I had misplaced the Plastic shields so I did not re-install them.

On the drivers side you can get at the lower Nut but the upper one is difficult to even see. If you did manage to get the upper one off with the Brake Booster on your hands are not going to fit in there to screw the Nut back on.

I also can't remember if the car needed to raised up or not.

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Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks Diesel911, my car is not really rusty at all so im not too worried about that but the penetrating oil will happen regardless.


I am worried about breaking the plastic shields during removal.

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1978 300D

From what I remember they just pull up and out. Don't remember any screws.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That's correct on my '79 240D. I used a rag to get them out, just slipped an end of the rag under the edge of the plastic piece and pulled up. Didn't break either one of the plastic covers on my W123.

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Milan Brown 1979 240D, rebuilt OM617.952 turbo diesel, rebuilt 722.315 transmission (my only daily driver)

Instagram: @maximed93

cool deal about those.



regarding the actual rubber bushings can anyone tell me how they have done this?



Jack car up? dont jack car up?



thank you!

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1978 300D

I replaced mine when the car had no engine in it, which made it a bit easier. You should unbolt the brackets that hold the bushings in place with the car on the ground. Jacking it up afterwards should allow some play to get the bushings off.

Good luck.

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Milan Brown 1979 240D, rebuilt OM617.952 turbo diesel, rebuilt 722.315 transmission (my only daily driver)

Instagram: @maximed93

In theory as long as both wheels are sitting on the ground at the same level there should no actual tension on the bar.
If there is tension on the bar it is going to be forward and backwards.

If it is backwards you can simply wrap duct tape severs times around some sort of pry bar (so it won't scratch the paint) and pry the bar away from the fire wall enough to get the busing in. You might be able to do one bushing at a time like that.

If it is pulling forward you need to use a pry bar somewhere in front of the upper control arm and upper steering knuckle to pry it back.

I don't know if there is a write up or not on your issue. I can't recall very many people even changing them.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Perhaps Ill document it! thank you for this reply! sounds more feasible with your response.

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1978 300D

Read up on the Brake Booster Removal. That is more complicated.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I replaced mine without removing the booster.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather