Nice what should I lube the front sway bar bushing with?

I have new front and rear sway bar bushings. Rear end is quiet no clunk there. just from front with brake/accel and when turning.

I will also check again everything in engine bay and take a wheel off and see whats up. just a PITA to keep doing this. Calipers seemed secure

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1978 300D

Another random though occurs....how about wheel bearings? If they're getting loose/sloppy they can certainly create some strange noises and pulling in the steering system.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Sil-Glyde silicone lubricant, available at NAPA, etc.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Did I miss you say you did the upper ball joints? Squirting a bit of oil into the boot may provide lubrication to a dry ball joint which will groan a bit.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

My SD has a similar creak and groan. I’ve pretty much given up.

I noticed you haven’t mentioned shocks. What do you have in there right now?

My noise is probably coming from the shocks. Sometimes I spray the spring pads and sway bar bushings with silicone oil and it may quiet it down but I’m not 100% sure that’s it. Looking forward to hearing what you find.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

Not on the Mercedes but when the rubber cushions at the end of the Shock Absorber shrink or get compressed over time they can clunk.

I am just going to ad this here since I am here.
Also Under the Shock Absorber is the front end of the Guide Rod tube. It has thin rubber between it and some tapered washers. If it was for some reason loose it would also clunk.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

This is on my to-do list, not far from the top. Do you have a rough figure for what all those parts cost?

My car handles pretty well but there is some play in the mix and it doesn't track really well.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

I am not saying this is the same problem with your 123 but its not unknown for the bulk head to part company with the rest of the front chassis in that i mean to split through . But i do hope you find a simple cure soon .

wow sounds insane! I don't think I have this but how would I tell? everything looks to be together and the car has no rust at all


I do have new upper ball joints that come in the upper arm. I also have new shocks as well.

still the noise and the shifting feeling sensation

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1978 300D

update:

met a Romanian mechanic guy and went on a ride along to try and help.

He found my front right wheel bearing was loose but only under heavy weight shifting .. EG you couldn't replicate with wheel off the ground. Should be easy enough to check and fix. Any chance the spindle is damaged from extended bad wheel bearing?



He also said on my non turbo there is a center mount under the engine to the cross member. which vie found in the EPC but doesn't look like anything "wears out". Does anyone have any experience with this being a clunking issue

going to try to check tonight and see

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1978 300D

so I realize no one seems to care about these issues anymore but for the record and to help someone down the line I am updating this thread.

I just purchased new MB wheel bearing kits from MB and the center rear motor mount. Part A 123 240 03 65 . I don't think all 300D had this or 240d but some for sure. The rubber on this bushing is shot and for the record its behind the oil pan but before the cross member

I will update this ones I've replaced and let you know if this fixes the issues.

Max

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1978 300D

Trust me, many here care but have no idea what to tell you.....

I'm keen to hear why you find, my '84 300CD has an occasional groan from the toe board, this makes me think it's the rear strut mounts but I replaced everything with M-B parts from the Classic Center and the dang noise is still there .

I'm also keen to hear about the center tranny / cross member mount, my '82 240D has horrible NVH issues and I'm sure it's that damn mount ~ they replaced it when I had the tranny rebuilt .

PLEASE post up pictures of the new mount, the old mount and what it all looks like before you begin (filthy & oily) and as the job goes along....

TIA,


I for one am loving this thread .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I have that groan from time to time. Sometimes don't hear it for a few years. I also assumed the rear strut mounts (it that is what those large rubber gizmos are called ) I have looked at them, but see nothing wrong. Seems that if I use the car more, the noise doesn't occur.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Thanx Graham ;

I was thinking of spraying in some silicone rubber lubricant then next time I have the car up in the air....

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

You did say pressing down on a fender created a groan. I would try to pursue that even getting a second set of ears on it as well.

If you did not have a good alignment done after changing a lot of the front end parts could fit your descriptions as well. Does the front end clunk when going to reverse to drive and repeating while moving a little?


If you changed the lower inner control arm bushings they are also a major front end adjustment. You should need an alignment. If you did not change them check them out carefully. Also when you changed a lot of front end parts. Many should only be tightened down with the car on the wheels. This weird feeling you are also experiencing on turns can be alignment as well.