Wondered if you might want to "share" your purchase price? I'm sure a lot of members are curious. Especially considering the high amount some of these cars are fetching as of late.
Thanks!

uhhh... yeah. it was given to me by a guy that knew i was a car nut. tow home job, didn't run, no electrical systems operational, no climate control, etc. i've put probably 40 hours into it and have about 10 more before i can drive it. i'd be further ahead buying a running $3,500 one but i enjoy the process.


rebuilt the Hirschmann 488 antenna today. FULL of corrosion and a bent mast but all is well now. came with a gaudy Pioneer radio that will NOT be going back in, can't stand the discord. picked up a vintage Grundig cassette/shortwave on eBay for $35 that looks the part. wanted to put a Becker Gran Prix back in but was sorta flummoxed by the rumored trunk unit, which there's nothing in the trunk now. and didn't want to deal with SAFE codes. if anyone has a Grundig Europa they want to be generous with, i'm hungry!


-dan

Try the biocide first in all old diesels.

The black goo might be normal settling out of diesel. The biocide should make any bacteria degrade and flow through the filters. The fact that you got it running suggests the fuel is in pretty good shape.

I have gotten diesels to run on fuel that has sat for decades so with a tank that has no water in it the fuel stays good for a very long time.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

i ended up removing the tank because when i took the fuel screen out, about a quart of molasses came out then some diesel. sloshed some Purple Power about and took it to the car wash for a blasting. got *pretty* clean but there's still some goo present. will finish off the tank with a rinse of acetone as spray carb cleaner (high acetone and toluene content) was the only thing that seemed to dissolve this.

the goo is pretty interesting... tried the following solvents on it:
Purple Power - weakly dissolves with stirring
gasoline - little effect
Pine Sol - no effect
Brake Cleaner - little to no effect
turpentine - no effect
mineral spirits - little effect
oven cleaner - no effect
high pressure soap wash - doesn't dissolve but mechanically loosens and rinses out
spray carb cleaner - strongly dissolves
acetone - strongly dissolves

-dan

well, an update....

- tank still soaking with acetone in it but the residual goo spots are really dissolving nicely.
- installed a replacement heater blower fan motor, had a bugger of a time driving the plastic fan off the serrated motor shaft but it finally came loose with boiling the fan end in water and driving the heck out of it. boiled it to reinstall just so it wouldn't crack on installation.
- cleaning and cleaning. power washed carpets including trunk, vacuumed the heck out of things, used Mothers Back to Black on door handles and trim. temporary but looks great.
- repaired a rust hole in trunk with a rust converter and asphalt tape to get by for now. overall, a few rust areas but generally good undercarriage and it is starting to look sharp after scraping the barnacles off.
- dumping the Pioneer Gee Whiz radio for a vintage Grundig with shortwave. Hirschmann electric antenna is awesome after rebuild.

need to rebuild the injectors, set valves, flush power steering, and fill 'er up with fresh diesel before a maiden voyage test drive! then change trans and axle fluids and start putting some shake down miles on it.

-dan

the resuscitation continues...

power steering flush via steering box drain hole. letting it drain overnight. the old filter was akin to whale baleen while the new one is pleated paper. interesting. while up on the jack stands found the passenger front caliper is hanging up very heavy. can see the caliper body has been hot enough to burn off the grease. arg.

spent an inordinate amount of time getting the license plate lamps back in service... cleaning the lenses, removing rust, burnishing the spring contacts. all treated with LPS rust preventative. 2 working lamps and one less probable cause for a traffic stop.

picked up the prechamber ring retainer tool, bought a cheap $35 one but seems very nicely made. ordered the $15 bike tool to extract the prechamber and obtained a 5/8-18 tall nut to weld on the top of it as that is the size of my slide hammer. don't know if i'll pull the prechambers but i'm very tempted to for a look-see.

-dan

update. Bendix caliper rebuilt with new seals. took way too long getting the stuck piston out but used the brake system pressure to do so. pistons in okay shape, one was new, the other an obvious refurb so the caliper must've been a reman.

rebuilt 5 injectors tonite... ultrasonically cleaned bodies, lapped the critical bits, new Bosch-India nozzles- not my favorite but what i could get reasonably. ultrasonically cleaned the new nozzles too and didn't have a stinker in the 5... dunno if it was the cleaning or the quality control is better nowadays. two of the injectors had a MB remanufactured shrink band on them. set a goal of 2100psi and 3 required a 0.1mm shim, the other two tested at that. have 4 within +25psi and one is about 50 over. they'll bed in to a bit less.

the 12mm metric steel shims from McMaster fit just fine and are a great resource as you can get a bag of 50 for about $7.

got a couple master keys made from MB, was a fairly quick process of title and license showing. they work! $30/ea.

verifed the waste gate valve moves with pressure, the manifold fitting is clear, the EGR was functional with vacuum but i might've forgotten to return the vac hoses to it. the switchover valve had been bypassed with a direct connection from the manifold to the ALDA and found that the manifold pressure switch was non-functional. are those NO or NC? mine is open but doesn't respond to pressure.

all 5 glow plugs were functional but the stud nuts were loose on several of them. will replace the plugs regardless. extremely clean when removed and the prechambers look nice and clean.

i'll install the injectors, glow plugs, and then adjust the valves. after that, it should be ready for some shakedown miles. trans filter coming up soon but the fluid was nice and pink.

You probably know this already but unplugging the pump (located underneath and to the right if I remember correctly, of the monovalve) which circulates hot water at idle for the heater is recommended to prevent frying the climate control unit.

In the catalog part# A0008352564 was replaced by A0008356964 (still available). Don't know if that corrected the issue.


Thanks for inadvertently answering 2 questions that I had pending!
1. That the 12mm Mcmaster shims "fit just fine".
2. That keys can be had from MB

What size shims thickness did you buy?


.

__________________
'83 SD, 2x '85 SD
You are entitled to your own opinions, you are not entitled to your own facts.

nope, i did NOT know that about the circ pump. i could see smoke come off the board when i turned the test fan (the correct one was on order) on and assumed it was the FAN drawing too much. so then i covered the fan outlet to reduce fan load/amperage and the board did not smoke. bothered me because i know the various speeds go thru the resistor under the brake booster so something wasn't making sense. now if that pump has a locked rotor, that could do that. i took it for one 20 mile drive since then so either the control board is now toast or the pump freed up or fan current somehow IS related. more investigating to do.


i bought 0.1, .2, .3, .4 and 1mm shims. only used the .1 in conjunction with the OEM shim and it raised the pressure about 100psi. the shims are more than just washers... they truly are very flat, die-cut spring steel that give highly repeatable results.



treated the finished injectors with gun bluing just now. gives a bit of a rust resistant coating and looks purrrty.

Checklist to comply with (in order not to fry refurb ccu and void warranty) before installing refurb ccu provided by the folks who refurb ccu to verify current draw at the pins per component:

https://www.programainc.com/info/60285/Document/tech-tip.pdf

Apparently Aux Pump is not the only possible culprit: Monovalve and . A.C. Comp relay might also be implicated.

__________________
'83 SD, 2x '85 SD
You are entitled to your own opinions, you are not entitled to your own facts.

thanks for the ccu link... a great reference.

got a snake camera today and took some photos of my glow plug holes and prechambers to see if i needed to ream or pull the prechambers. surprising lack of carbon, nothing to clean out!

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adjusted the valves today... every one tight, like in the exhaust being .004". cleaned the valve cover up, disassembled and cleaned the linkages on the valve cover along with a slight moment of panic upon reassembly that i hadn't taken enough pictures. biggest charm was checking the timing chain stretch and finding it essentially aligned with TDC after aligning the cam timing marks. a picture just to celebrate and another of some very pretty injectors. blued with cheapo Birchwood bluing and then rubbed with Scotts Liquid Gold. probably should just have used olive oil.

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Checking chain stretch is far more complicated than aligning timing mark and looking...

The FSM has a procedure with cam lobe and a dial indicator.. you may be quite surprised how far off it is.

Also, there is the likelihood that cam alignment bushings have been installed...

I REALLY have to fix up my 85 someday... my 84 drives well but is a beater...

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

ah. so much for 'internet wisdom'. i'll dig into the correct procedure at the next valve setting. gotta get this thing on the road for now and see what falls off.


-dan

got it back on the road tonite! engine runs great, pulls strong now have 3 issues to sort out...

- the climate control gives me great heat for about 10 minutes then cuts back even with wheel full hot. anything off of full hot and the air goes cool

- sounds like i have a front wheel bearing out. i'll replace both sides.

- got the strangest RRRrrrrrrrr sound in Park and while driving. sounds just like a PS pump but that has new oil and filter. can't really pinpoint where it is coming from.

other than that, it's running well. shifts great, walks up to 70-75 mph easily. starts well.

-dan