FINALLY got all my vac lines figured out and did an EGR disable, including removing the lines. there are soooo many line diagrams, most fuzzy to the point where you can't read line colors. there were lines off when i got the car and errors on the VCV. and now with a simpler line layout, i actually know what each line does and where it goes! for my '83, this was the single most useful diagram i could find. profuse apologies to the author who's credit i don't remember when i grabbed the jpg. he had a great text along with it.

-dan

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wheel bearings arrived... SKF. Made in China. they'll be the first Chinese wheel bearings i've installed and i'm an old fart. for this one time, i'm going to trust that a) they aren't counterfeit (because then why would they say China?), and b) that SKF is satisfied with the QC. it's not a big job so if one is to risk, this is probably a good test. i'd really not be comfortable with internal bearings for trans or engine, simply because of the time to get to them... i'll pay WAY more for those to get other bearings.

the front is making a horrible, classic wheel bearing noise where i don't really trust it for more than 10 mile jaunts. this will be a job that is satisfying to test drive when done.

changed the monovalve tonite. step 1 of exorcising heater demons. was going to replace the 2 alt belts but found the L shaped adjustment bolt is now only a thru-bolt and the adjuster nut is gone. more $.

but on a happy note, drove it again today. starts great in cooler temps and can hit 75 with lots left. feels quite zippy but probably slower than my Honda Civic. trans kickdown works. chassis shakes at idle, assuming i need new motor mounts.

-dan

wimped out on doing wheel bearings tonite. distracted my self with pulling the ignition lock cylinder and cleaning it in the ultrasonic cleaner along with acetone rinses. my two new keys from Mercedes are a little balky and after doing everything, found that they both work much better with a particular edge up. so i ground a notch in each plastic part for 'up'.

put the trunk back together after all the tank R&R stuff and power washed the stink out. carpets power washed too. looks spiffy. the vacuum pump and locks work fine.

but my greatest success/joy tonite was with the block heater. wasn't working, a bugger to get to and essential in northern MN. feeling the very end of the plug was 'too floppy', i cut it off and could measure 26 ohms between the line wires. put a new end on and Bob was my Uncle.

this weekend i gotta belly up and do the whl brgs and then i can start driving it for real. and parking outside to test how cold it will start in. without the heater, i dared not leave it out because it could be a month or two before it gets warm enough to start on its own.

Did I miss a pic of the SD?

I don't plug my 83 SD in unless it gets below -10C. I run Full synthetic oil though.

pictures? looks exactly like every other '83 SD but here ya go... it's got some rust, cracked dash-wood-leather, etc but overall nice once the barnacles were scraped off. lichen actually.

-dan

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Looks nice!!! Great color.

Good luck!!!

__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Keyless entry is recommended to reduce wear on keys and locks.

__________________
'83 SD, 2x '85 SD
You are entitled to your own opinions, you are not entitled to your own facts.

Yep, good looking SD.

Any old car from Minnesota would have visible rust.... (J.K.) .

Looks great, that P.S. filter was the original one, NLA, I toss 'em out whenever I find 'em .

Don't forget to lubricate your lock cylinder with graphite .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

it was originally sold in Hawaii, then spent time in Florida. now MN. there's rust perforation along the side bumper trim in the trunk and under some of the side trim and jack points. it's got its Minnesota scars. not a candidate for full restoration, there's too many solid ones around for that, but it'll be a great daily driver. i'll have around $1000 in it total plus extensive hours.

-dan

? Did you miss the " J.K. " ? .

Plenty of far worse ones doing yeoman duty here in California .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

didn't have a clue what "J.K." was!! just googled it... many hits for J.K. Rowling. so then i thought... is it a cool term for JoKing? sho' 'nuf. the only thing cool in MN is the weather... that term will hit MN in another few years. ah we lead simple lives up here.


on the car front, replaced the driver's wheel bearings... TOTALLY shot and was lucky to have stopped driving it when i did. no spindle damage. was just putting things back together when my wife informed me the water softener was leaking bad. assessed the damage and ran in town for another one to replace this 25+ year old unit and installed that. finished the bearing up, installed a new hood liner, adjusted the passenger front door to close a bit better and called it a day with the help of a friend that lends a good brain and set of hands. will do the passenger side tomorrow and go for a long drive!


-dan

...It means 'Just Kidding' .

Sorry about that .

It sounds like you're getting there, I spent to - day on my '82 240D, peaking and tweaking, it shifts much better now and I think I found the vacuum leak in the central locking...

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

took it for its first real drive today today after finishing the wheel bearings. BOTH sides outboards were trashed. what is interesting is that these looked like somewhat new, FAG - made in Germany bearings that were possibly put in with what looks like recent brake discs and pads. but an oaf had installed them, buggering up the bearing lands by driving a punch into not the bearing race but ledge of the land. then strong grind marks, way deeper than needed, to dress up the sidewall where the punch had also raised metal. so MY guess is that these high quality, somewhat recent bearings were set with the wrong preload. plenty of grease remained but the small bearing was running HOT and disintegrating.

i set my preload with a dial indicator and found the process fast and easy. the slightest amount of perceptible in-out shake was too much for the .0004-7" spec. but the spec was repeatable and if the nut was tightened too much, the clearance went away to zero. but i could NOT feel the .0004-7 as any sort of play.

back to the drive... what a great machine! surprisingly peppy, tho i've tweaked the ALDA screw about 3/4 turn counterclockwise. nice acceleration left at 70mph. it's sort of a primitive, bare bones car compared to modern and i like that. mechanical and analog control, things a mortal can fix over the long run.

some additional fixin' to be done... the aux water pump is not operational but at 12K ohms, not shorted either so i don't think that's what burned traces on my heater controller. i'd replaced the OEM monovalve that had a torn diaphragm with a $13 Uro. absolutely no heat with the Uro so i superglued the diaphragm rip on the MB one and put it back in.. heat again. have loose alternator belts and discovered the L shaped adjuster bolt is now just a bolt and the adjuster nut is missing. turn signals don't cancel and no heat to the floor on driver or passenger side. all tips appreciated.

-dan