Finally tested compression on my 300D - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

cmac2012 · #31 01-24-2020, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry12345

It just looks like vinyl hose basically. Sold at most hardware stores. Take the barb with you after removing the piece of old hose to check for fit.

I thought about that but the stuff in the car seems thinner walled than the haredware store varieties. Flexible but less flexible than the hareware store variety. I'll cast about a bit, might end up needing to use whatever I can find.

Alec300SD · #32 01-24-2020, 12:02 PM

Temporarily, you can use vacuum hose as a connector.
Typically, 12 psi is the max pressure the hose will ever see.

Usaguy · #33 01-24-2020, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry12345

It just looks like vinyl hose basically. Sold at most hardware stores. Take the barb with you after removing the piece of old hose to check for fit.

I don't recommend a vinyl hose because when it gets really cold that hose becomes rock solid and can break from vibrations of the engine. Try rubber or something

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmac2012

I've heard of the trouble in getting reamers out. I don't have any Kroll, I have some PB Blaster. Probably wouldn't hurt to spray some on now. I'd hate to need to spring for one of the extractor kits now. IIRC I've read of home made reaming tools.

But yes, I think I'll be getting his reamer and the wrench that goes with it.

you mean getting glow plugs out? OM617 don't have problems with plugs seizing in the head.

you don't really need any special wrenches. a small 12mm ratcheting box end wrench can be helpful but if you're doing injectors at the same time and removing the hard lines you don't need that either.

cmac2012 · #34 01-24-2020, 12:50 PM

I just had a thought. When I put in new windshield sprayers, pulling the old ones off was a bear and no way did the new ones want to go in to the old tubing. I put my heat gun on the ends of the tubing till it got soft enough to slip over, when it cooled it was on fast. I have enough slack to on the ALDA line to cut off a half inch and reuse. The rest is sound enough.

I can't recall if I had enough extra length on the sprayer tubes to cut off a bit, I think I did.

cmac2012 · #35 01-24-2020, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christuna

I don't recommend a vinyl hose because when it gets really cold that hose becomes rock solid and can break from vibrations of the engine. Try rubber or something

you mean getting glow plugs out? OM617 don't have problems with plugs seizing in the head.

you don't really need any special wrenches. a small 12mm ratcheting box end wrench can be helpful but if you're doing injectors at the same time and removing the hard lines you don't need that either.

Yes, I'm sorry, I meant glow plugs. I was reading about glow plugs seizing up, perhaps that was on the OM603.

I haven't looked but you're saying with the injectors out it's easier to get the plugs out? It looked like it would be more roomy. I can't decide if I should get the injectors rebuilt. They don't have the sharp points sticking out, Kent mentioned that, but that's not a real scientific test.

Usaguy · #36 01-24-2020, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmac2012

Yes, I'm sorry, I meant glow plugs. I was reading about glow plugs seizing up, perhaps that was on the OM603.

OM603 is not that bad but on the OM606 it's a nightmare

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmac2012

I haven't looked but you're saying with the injectors out it's easier to get the plugs out? It looked like it would be more roomy. I can't decide if I should get the injectors rebuilt. They don't have the sharp points sticking out, Kent mentioned that, but that's not a real scientific test.

it's easier with the injector HARD LINES removed. I highly recommend rebuilding your injectors on an unknown engine. It will pay for itself and will improve cold starting.

cmac2012 · #37 01-24-2020, 01:58 PM

I suspect you’re right. At 135k, unlikely that many of the components have been replaced or rebuilt.

vwnate1 · #38 01-24-2020, 11:37 PM

Be smart and send them to Greezer (SP) ~ they do need periodic service and he adjusts them to within 5# pop off pressure, you will LOVE the increased power and smoothness this balanced power affords .

t walgamuth · #39 01-25-2020, 10:20 AM

if its really only 135k miles the injectors should be like new. I'd check the glow plugs for function and check all my vac lines for leaks and go with it.

cleeves · #40 01-25-2020, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

if its really only 135k miles the injectors should be like new. I'd check the glow plugs for function and check all my vac lines for leaks and go with it.

You're saying the injectors nozzles should be like new if they've run 135K miles? I don't agree with that. Mine were in deplorable condition at 135K on a 1-owner well maintained example. 3 out of 5 were shooting a straight line of fuel and the remaining two weren't far behind. All had cupped, concave nozzles.

Henry

t walgamuth · #41 01-25-2020, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cleeves

You're saying the injectors nozzles should be like new if they've run 135K miles? I don't agree with that. Mine were in deplorable condition at 135K on a 1-owner well maintained example. 3 out of 5 were shooting a straight line of fuel and the remaining two weren't far behind. All had cupped, concave nozzles.

Henry

Did you do all the miles yourself?

cleeves · #42 01-25-2020, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

Did you do all the miles yourself?

No, got it in 2017 with 133K miles. 145K now. Very good original docs, most of the miles were put on in the late 70s and early 80s. Owner died in '01 or so and it went into storage until I got it from a family friend of his - it was in a sealed shipping container until they retrieved it in 2017, drained the gas tank and sold it me. The car is in excellent original condition, and I have no reason to think that poor maintenance caused premature deterioration of the injector nozzles.

-Henry

t walgamuth · #43 01-25-2020, 09:53 PM

Sounds like a nice car!

cleeves · #44 01-25-2020, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

Sounds like a nice car!

Thanks! I've finally replaced most every rubber bit that I can source on the car - all the light and window seals, suspension, you name it. Parts a bit pricey but labor is just time. All I can think of now is the cruise control and door lock vacuum leaks. It's so very smooth and quiet on the high way, hard to put words to the satisfaction I feel from getting it to run like it does now. 99% Rust-free to boot; maybe it will outlive me too.

Henry

cmac2012 · #45 01-26-2020, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry12345

Obviously if the car was sluggish from the first time you drove it. You did not create the problem..

Just before you hook up the new hose to the alda. Blow on the end to make sure there is no obstruction in the over boost valve or the manifold connection. That line when functional does not really have constant air flow as such. It relays the air pressure from the manifold to the alda. By just compressing the air.

With that line open there would have been air flow. This might have included some of the egr garbage fed into the manifold going through that line. That increased the chances of soot buildup in the manifold fitting and the over boost protection valve.

So you just make sure that the system is still open by reducing the air pressure applied. Or just take the car for a short drive to make sure the sluggishness is gone. The engine was just simply fuel starved.

I blew on it, could just barely get air through. Does the union thing on the firewall have any dirctional flow or is all just connected there? I see the one line that goes over to the manifold.

Perhaps I should remove that and see if cleaning is needed.