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#1
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Di
Recently Installed a Mc Master cylinder and brake booster on my 84 300D. I bled the brakes how very when I push down the brake pedal it doesn't feel firm but rather spongy. On top of that I got a new brake booster line (The one that connects to to the booster to the pump). However I somehow got a rubber vacuum cap longed in the line on the end that goes in the booster, I can't get it because it's longed to deep.
Do you think because the line loved it would have an effect on the booster working? Thoughts? Car shuts off fine No vacuum issues I tested the vacuum on the line it pulls well above 21 Last edited by Ely; 01-30-2020 at 09:31 AM. Reason: God damnit I screwed up the title. I am too old for this $+#+ |
#2
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Brake Fun
Sounds like still some air in the brakes, some bleed out easier than others...
Try a bit of heavy unbent coat hanger wire ~ sharpen the end to a seriously sharp point then use needle nose pliers to make a sharp reverse bend in it, poke a hole then use the bent tip wire to hook the rubber cap and draw it out.... Or maybe just ignore the damn thing is there's no resistance to the air volume .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#3
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So you have something plugging up the booster line and you want to know why your brakes doen't work? Is there some reason why you think that wouldn't be a problem?
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#4
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Did you "bench bleed" the master cylinder before installing it? Kinda hard to describe here, so research it if you're not sure. If the master cylinder wasnt "bench bled", there's air in there that won't bleed out with normal bleeding at the caliper/wheel cylinder. Plastic caps lodged in the main vacuum line notwithstanding....
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#5
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I would want the cap out of the line. There should be a way.
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#6
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Yep, bench bleed is a must. Without it you will get spongy to zero brakes.
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#7
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Why Is there literally 3 threads of the exact same thing
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