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#1
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W123 Windshield Washer Set-up
Hi Gang,
I’ve been having some problems with my windshield washer system not spraying and I need some help on the correct order of all the parts. Currently, the set-up is from the pump there is a hose to a “T” fitting, one end of the “T” is attached directly to the nozzle and the other end is to a hose that connects to the check valve which connects to more hose and then to an elbow that the attaches directly to the other nozzle. My first question is should the check valve be before both nozzles or after the first one? Also, should the “T” and the Elbow hook directly to the nozzle, or should it attach via a hose? While I’m at it, how do you remove the nozzles from the hood if they are found to be defective? I have replaced the checkvalve so I know that it is not part of the problem. Thanks in advance for the help!
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Alfred Gee 1975 Mercedes 280C 1992 Lincoln Town Car Cartier 1996 Cadillac ETC 1981 Cadillac Seville Elegante |
#2
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Don't know all the set up details, but removed my nozzles with long nose needle nose pliers, there is a pair of plastic tabs that spring out after you push it into the hole in the hood, so you have to press them in to remove, be careful, where they connect to the hose is brittle. Was able to get them going again after poking with fine wire and lots of blowing.
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#3
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I was able to clear out partially clogged nozzles without removing them from the hood. I disconnected the hoses from underneath, then back-flushed the nozzles by using an old Water Pik (thrift store find).
Sorry, not much help from me on the overall setup. My '85 300D has the functions of the tee and the check valve integrated into one unit. It would seem to me, though, that it would make sense for the check valve to be between the washer pump and (both) nozzles. |
#4
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I had the same problem as you - no spray on passenger's side, even after cleaning, blowing and backflushing. It sounds like my setup was the same as you described. I ended up ordering the combination T/checkvalve (~$6) and putting it in before both nozzles. Works well now.
K.C. 84 300D 212K |
#5
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I don't think I'll ever have a problem with them being clogged, as I must run about 2-3 gallons of the stuff through them each month
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#6
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![]() Quote:
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#7
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Bumping an old thread. I'm also going through this system on my '85. It's never worked in the 5-6 years I've owned the car because of a broken tee inside the hood.
Looking from the reservoir to the nozzles, there is no check valve at all on my car. Assume it was removed by a PO. Before I order one, I just want to be sure I understand where it goes. I see it is meant to go BEFORE either nozzle in the tubing. Is it meant to go inside of the hood (closer to the nozzles) or further back in the line, closer to the reservoir? I notice the part # for my car is 1 nipple into 2. Is the intent that each nozzle gets its own tubing from this valve? I assume so, but the way it's set up in my car is just one single line from the reservoir to a tee for each nozzle. OR, I also see 1 into 1 valves... Is that what I'm supposed to have? Then just a single line two both nozzles with a tee up to each? Thanks, |
#8
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Quote:
Anyway that is what I did. Thanks for the water pick idea. I have a water pick but never thought of using it to clear the nozzles. Also you can use a thin wire or needle to push in anything stuck in the nozzle. In my case I think the issue is that there is no filter in the system so once in awhile I end up with a nozzle plugged.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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