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  #1  
Old 03-12-2020, 03:18 PM
He/Him
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: DC Metro/Maryland
Posts: 13,294
w123 Floor Rust repair

My daily driver (1984 300D) had a leak into the interior from corrosion behind the battery. This led to the passenger rear foot well having a rust hole which I discovered by pulling up the carpet one day.

The entire seam between the floor and the rocker panel up to the front wheel well decided to rust out as well. I managed to park the car for a few days and weld in some new metal and new rubberized undercoating, but just finished it enough to get the car back on the road.

Fast forward to a year later I find the driver's rear floor carpet soaked. I dry it out, no rust to be seen. A month following that I notice that my right foot is cold and the pedal seems soft. Check underneath the car and the pedal mounting tab has rusted through the bottom of the car.

While I'm trying to find a place to store the care while I fix it, I'm driving long distance on business and the driver's seat leans a bit too far in one corner. Yup. The right rear seat mount has also rusted through the floor.

Time to fix it all.

So here's the damage.

The pedal pulled out of the body without any force. I just detached it from the linkage rod. (Yes, that is undercoating on the bottom)

[/url]



Once I removed the driver's seat, carpeting and chiseled away the asphalt sound insulation. This is what I found.



And after the partially rusted out seat channel was removed.



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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #2  
Old 03-12-2020, 03:21 PM
He/Him
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: DC Metro/Maryland
Posts: 13,294
Since I didn't know initially what parts of the floor were still metal and which ones were just undercoating and sound deadening material sandwiched around rust, I ordered both full floor pans and the passenger side rocker panel.



I cut out a decent amount around the pedal, with both the depressions for the pedal and fuel lines collecting sitting water. This is almost fully welded in. I'll take more pictures after it's ground and sealed.



Here's the patch underneath the seat. Only partially welded at this point.

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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #3  
Old 03-12-2020, 06:34 PM
vwnate1's Avatar
Diesel Dandy
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
Posts: 7,718
Exclamation As I Always Say :

RUST NEVER SLEEPS .

Who makes those patch panels ? .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #4  
Old 03-12-2020, 09:48 PM
He/Him
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: DC Metro/Maryland
Posts: 13,294
The vendor (JC Whitney) I bought them from said they were Key Parts but they turned out to be Klokkerholm.

Each pan was $78
The rocker panel was $40
Shipping was $79

Total of $292 after taxes. Totally worth it.
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  #5  
Old 03-12-2020, 10:21 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 5,924
You probably know this. Protect the glass when grinding. The sparks can melt into the glass. I try not to learn things the hard way but there are exceptions over the years..
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  #6  
Old 03-12-2020, 11:20 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 141
Awesome job... on all levels!!!!
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'84 300D (211k) *New*... (Wife's)
'85 300TD (174K) 10th Year... (Mine)
'96 F-350 7.3L Dually (149K) Since New
'85 300D (156K) ~~~Wrecked~~~ Damn it! (parts)
'84 300D (176k) ~~~Wrecked~~~ Damn it! (parts)
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  #7  
Old 03-13-2020, 09:11 AM
He/Him
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: DC Metro/Maryland
Posts: 13,294
Quote:
Originally Posted by barry12345 View Post
You probably know this. Protect the glass when grinding. The sparks can melt into the glass. I try not to learn things the hard way but there are exceptions over the years..
I completely forgot that. Although I'm grinding in an area that's pretty shielded, I'll be covering the glass now.
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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #8  
Old 03-13-2020, 01:35 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,281
How about a picture of the welding machine.

For other peoples info. I read that if you put a Copper bar behind when you welding thin material it decreases the chance of burning a hole through it.
I bought a bar of copper 6x1 inch 3/16 thick. And tried that using a Flux Core welder and it helps a lot. However, you have to be able to keep the bar up against the back of the metal.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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  #9  
Old 03-13-2020, 01:57 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,637
Good work M!
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #10  
Old 03-13-2020, 07:18 PM
vwnate1's Avatar
Diesel Dandy
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
Posts: 7,718
Thumbs up Patch Panels

So then ;

The metal is good quality ? .
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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #11  
Old 03-14-2020, 11:20 AM
He/Him
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: DC Metro/Maryland
Posts: 13,294
Yesterday's progress.

Cut a section of rust out.



In goes the patch. (about 2 hours to get it to fit well) Coated it with weld thru primer.



Those are magnets I bought to hold things in place. Got them from Eastwood. Totally worth purchasing.
https://www.eastwood.com/stitch-weld-magnets.html


Tacked in. Now about a thousand stitch welds and we can grind it smooth and get on to the next patch.

__________________
Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #12  
Old 03-14-2020, 11:22 AM
He/Him
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: DC Metro/Maryland
Posts: 13,294
Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
So then ;

The metal is good quality ? .
The stampings aren't exact and you'll have to work with them a bit to get them to fit the factory metal. I'll try to grab some pictures of the complex curves that don't really work.

But as the factory metal is over ten times as much... yeah, its good enough.
__________________
Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #13  
Old 03-14-2020, 03:41 PM
greazzer's Avatar
dieselfuelinjector.guru
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: 2021 - The Great Florida Count-down
Posts: 6,396
Nice job. I hate rust
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  #14  
Old 03-14-2020, 07:05 PM
300d 4 ME's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 137
That is lookin good!

When it gets time to paint, or coat it in something. I can't recommend enough something like "Rust Bullet"- Amazon, or Miracle Paint(Ebay, or Bill Hirsch). It drys because of moisture, so even on a wet day. Hardens like shiny smooth concrete. Yet somehow not brittle.. Way better than cheap black paint.. Both work amazingly well. The combo of one of these epoxy paints, a welder, and some fiber glass means you can do almost anything..

Needless to say use a respirator.
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  #15  
Old 03-15-2020, 05:45 PM
He/Him
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: DC Metro/Maryland
Posts: 13,294
Quote:
Originally Posted by 300d 4 ME View Post
That is lookin good!

When it gets time to paint, or coat it in something. I can't recommend enough something like "Rust Bullet"- Amazon, or Miracle Paint(Ebay, or Bill Hirsch). It drys because of moisture, so even on a wet day. Hardens like shiny smooth concrete. Yet somehow not brittle.. Way better than cheap black paint.. Both work amazingly well. The combo of one of these epoxy paints, a welder, and some fiber glass means you can do almost anything..

Needless to say use a respirator.
I'm going to start sounding like an advertisement for Eastwood, but here's what I'm using.

Eastwood Brushable Seam Sealer (on all welded seams)

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-brush-on-seam-sealer-quart.html

Rust Encapsulator Plus

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-plus.html

And for the box sections of the body, Internal Frame Coating.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html


Depending on how the Rust Encapsulator looks, I might paint over it with something else.

I'm using Kilmat 80 mil sound deadening material on the floor and over the transmission tunnel. If I have enough I'll add it to the doors.

https://kilmat.com/

__________________
Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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