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  #16  
Old 03-23-2020, 12:33 PM
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Master

Hah! Serious pain. It didn’t help that we tried to use the BMW E30 connector first.

Looks the same does not = the same!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximan1 View Post
No kidding, my back still hurts from my attempt lol


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1983 300D Midnight Blue
4 speed, W115 intake mani, non-EGR exhaust mani, KKK K26, 3 pc Euro bumpers, Lo-spec Euro headlights, AL129X, hubcaps, custom A/C

1987 300TD Smoke Silver
Euro headlights, thermostat relocation, coolant bypass mod, rebuilt Becker + Jehnert + Helix audio, OEM Oris roof boxes and surfboard racks, Euro towbar

1983 300TD Reed (Moss) Green / Dark Olive MB Tex Euro spec

1983 300TD Silver Blue / Blue cloth Euro spec, OM648 and 722.6, 15" hubcaps, W126 S2 brakes
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  #17  
Old 03-23-2020, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Shern View Post
I appreciate it.

Been trying to find the Hose ID. I'm reading either 7mm or 8mm.

MB P/N 009 997 38 82. 7.3mm ID


Verify length. My friend wanted the plastic hose but mistakenly located this number. He ordered qty. 1 and got a meter.



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Last edited by party; 03-23-2020 at 03:13 PM.
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  #18  
Old 03-23-2020, 04:46 PM
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Nailed it -thank you.

$2.50 from the dealership.
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  #19  
Old 03-23-2020, 10:14 PM
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Thumbs up Clutch Fluid Hose

Good thing you got the right stuff ~ regular rubber hose will get soft and blubbery in short order .

Remember to twist the hose as you remove and install it .

I'd take the time to remove the fluid resevoir and clean it well, there's usually slimy bits of degraded rubber in there....

Let us know how it goes .
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  #20  
Old 03-23-2020, 11:01 PM
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It might also be a good opportunity to replace the master cyl grommets while you're at it.
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  #21  
Old 03-24-2020, 04:22 PM
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That’s a good point.
I bled my brakes about a year ago, clutch included. The fluid that came from the clutch slave nipple was filthy. Figured the previous owner had neglected this. When I bled it again the other day, again the fluid was black.. My theory for this involves the deterioration of that rubber hose. Going to start there, and see how I go.

Nate, great call on the reservoir. Noticed some gummy rubber in there while changing the master cylinder so I gave it a good cleaning.

Will update once I’ve got my hands on the hose and the hose in the car.
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  #22  
Old 03-24-2020, 04:46 PM
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Post Doing A Good Job

Resivoir grommets : 000-431-09-50
-M4

Rubber fluid level sensor caps : 000-431-90-87-64

Don't forget a quart of brake fluid, bleed / flush until completely clear fluid comes out .

Basic pressure bleeder, fits most newer vehicles : https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PEL0100.htm?pn=PEL-0100&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=3304

I hope this helps .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
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  #23  
Old 03-27-2020, 08:36 PM
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Party -I appreciate the heads-up on the elbow.
Once I removed the driver's seat there was plenty of space.
Meanwhile, the old hose was weeping like a cheese cloth...

The hose from the dealer is about half a meter long. Easily enough to do this job several times over. You also have to cut an angle into the hose to match the angle of the elbow in addition to trimming it to length. After that, I used a syringe to top up the hose before reconnecting it to the reservoir. No clutch bleed necessary.
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  #24  
Old 03-28-2020, 12:13 AM
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Guess they're not very consistent with their segments. Just measured the hose I took a pic of and it's 26" long. This is after cutting off 12" doing manual swap in my friend's C36.
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  #25  
Old 03-28-2020, 12:17 AM
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Yeah, it seemed like an arbitrary measurement. Also kind of funny that length required is about 10”. Wondering if this hose is good for anything else...
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Last edited by Shern; 03-28-2020 at 11:02 AM.
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  #26  
Old 03-28-2020, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h3ffe View Post
Perhaps they are remaking them - I was able to order one from the Classic Center a few weeks ago.
Good! I had trouble getting my hands on one several times, had to use junkyard parts back when these vehicles were still in junkyards.
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  #27  
Old 03-28-2020, 11:58 AM
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JY parts

Don’t I know it!

For once, a surprisingly low price. $3...
Quote:
Originally Posted by JB3 View Post
Good! I had trouble getting my hands on one several times, had to use junkyard parts back when these vehicles were still in junkyards.
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1983 300D Midnight Blue
4 speed, W115 intake mani, non-EGR exhaust mani, KKK K26, 3 pc Euro bumpers, Lo-spec Euro headlights, AL129X, hubcaps, custom A/C

1987 300TD Smoke Silver
Euro headlights, thermostat relocation, coolant bypass mod, rebuilt Becker + Jehnert + Helix audio, OEM Oris roof boxes and surfboard racks, Euro towbar

1983 300TD Reed (Moss) Green / Dark Olive MB Tex Euro spec

1983 300TD Silver Blue / Blue cloth Euro spec, OM648 and 722.6, 15" hubcaps, W126 S2 brakes
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  #28  
Old 02-10-2021, 08:44 AM
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Hey everyone, I'm replacing the brake master cylinder on my 240D manual, will this require a clutch bleed?
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  #29  
Old 02-10-2021, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YousefTAK View Post
Hey everyone, I'm replacing the brake master cylinder on my 240D manual, will this require a clutch bleed?
Although the clutch hydraulic system as well as the brake hydraulic system share the same fluid reservoir if you are just replacing the brake master cylinder it won't affect your clutch, you should be a little careful though.

The actual plastic reservoir is pressure fit into the brake master cylinder. When you pull your old one off you have to be careful of the rubber line that sends brake fluid to the clutch system. It is attached on the right side if you are facing the enginebay. It is fragile at this age and honestly should be replaced if it hasn't been in a long time. But if you are careful you should be able to not disturb that line. Then the rest is pretty easy.
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  #30  
Old 02-10-2021, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YousefTAK View Post
Hey everyone, I'm replacing the brake master cylinder on my 240D manual, will this require a clutch bleed?
Perhaps not in the sense that you’re referring to.
All the crazy stories on here about people struggling to bleed clutch are after introducing air (in most cases by changing parts). In your case, there is no air, so you’re really just using hydraulic pressure to move fluid in one direction.

Do you have a power bleeder? Once you’ve finished with the brakes, pump it back up to whatever psi you’re using, climb under and find the clutch slave nipple. Open it up the same way you’ve done the brakes, let it drain until it’s clear. That’s it.

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